Cinnamon myrtle

(above pics courtesy of A Taste of the Bush: Davidson plums, lemon aspen,  finger limes, quandong)

Centuries ago the only food eaten in Australia was 'bush tucker' - food that hopped, crawled, slithered or grew in the land then populated entirely by Aboriginal people. These native inhabitants herded no animals, planted no crops and were hunter-gatherers, relying on the harsh, hot land for each mouthful. In hard times, every waking moment was spent foraging for food. Little wonder then that they soon instinctively knew which piece of bark might hide a grub, what valley would attract wallabies or emus in the evenings, or the leaves and berries which could safely be eaten. Their lives depended on it.

When the white man came, overnight everything changed. Driven back from their hunting grounds, the Aborigines had to learn to find and use new foods while, from the colonist's camps drifted strange smells: those of baking bread, roast pork and lamb, strange vegetables stewing in water, and sweet fruits they had never seen before. Unfortunately curiosity and fear on both sides prevented much sharing of knowledge and while most Aboriginals have now acquired a taste for Western food, until very recently the cuisine of Australia's native people has been strictly 'off the menu' for most white people.

It is only recently that these unusual and rare foodstuffs have been catalogued and described; even more recently that they have become available to the general public in restaurants and shops; and the time is still in the future when all Australians will share in the enjoyment of them.

If you wince at the idea of witchetty grubs or emu, take heart: the Australian bush has much else to offer. Akudjura or bush tomatoes taste of caramel and tamarillo and suit savoury or sweet dishes; Kakadu plum is the world's highest source of vitamin C; munthiree berries are apple-flavoured and delicious in pies and flans; lemon myrtle leaves add an aromatic zing to everything from herb butter to mayonnaise and fish dishes; and rosellas which are mainly used to make sauces and jams, are from a plant not the feathered variety.

Hawaiians refer to macadamias as theirs, but it is indigenous to Australia. However if you thought these were Australia's only native nut, think again. Wattle seed, when roasted and ground, can provide the basis for a cappuccino or bread; bunya-bunya nuts similar in size and flavour to a chestnut and fat-free are just as versatile and nutritious.

Emu and kangaroo may seem a bit too unusual for many, even though for the last couple of decades nutritionists have hailed them as health-foods because of their low cholesterol, but there is still much that can suit your taste in the Aussie bush. The land even provides some cooking aids. Paperbark from a eucalyptus tree with an unusual papery bark, for instance, keeps steamed or baked meats moist and tender as they cook.

Supermarkets and specialty delicatessens around the country now stock sauces, mustards, icecreams and jams which use native foods; there is a lemon myrtle mayonnaise and warrigal greens pasta mixed with native pepper is an exotic ready-made accompaniment to bush or western food. You can even find dampers (or breads) using a variety of native foods - bush tomatoes, native pepper leaves or wattleseed.

 (Paperbark tree and bark)

Restaurants throughout Australia also use natural bush foods as part of their regular ingredients. But while we're thinking Australian indigenous food, do not forget the excellent seafood available from all the country's coastal areas. The oceans and bays surrounding Australia are full of excellent fish and crustaceans. Visitors should make sure that they sample the local oysters, Balmain and Moreton Bay bugs, crab, lobsters, scampi, octopus and mussels as well as the huge variety of fish. They may not be strictly 'bush' tucker, but many are uniquely Australian.

'Tucker' is Australian slang for food, but now the term 'bush tucker' is becoming synonymous with great food. Perhaps you could call it advanced Australian fare.

Want to know more?

akudjura or bush tomatoes taste of caramel and tamarillo and suit savoury or sweet dishes

bunya-bunya nuts similar in size and flavour to a chestnut are fat-free and just as versatile and nutritious

crocodile has a delicate flavour like chicken

emu is lean and low in fat, delicious when prepared properly

kakadu plum is the world's highest source of vitamin C

kangaroo nutritionists are hailing them as health-foods because of their low cholesterol

lemon aspen has a very tart grapefruit scent and flavour 

lemon myrtle leaves add an aromatic zing to everything from herb butter to fish dishes

macadamias are so versatile and delicious that Hawaii claimed them years ago

munthari berries are apple-flavoured and delicious in pies and flans

native pepper is an exotic ready-made accompaniment to bush or western food

paperbark keeps steamed or baked meats moist and tender

quandongs or native peach adds a tart interest to meats and desserts

rosellas, are a flower bud used to make sauces and jams, are from a plant not the feathered variety 

warrigal greens may be used to make pasta or can substitute for spinach 

wattleseed when roasted and ground can provide the basis for a cappuccino, gravy or bread