Lake-hopping with cheeky prehistoric birds  

If we'd had wings like this fellow, we could have arrived earlier. Pelicans have a wingspan up to 3.4 metres, and it is believed this pterodactyl-like bird has been around for about 30 million years! Little wonder they are so adept at staying aloft.

They are also inquisitive and always ready to grab something (they don't mind much what it is) to pop into the handbag-like food-pouch below their half-metre-long beak.  

But we haven't come just for the bird-watching.

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After months of COVID lock-down, we have decided to take a lazy road trip north from Sydney.

On the map, a string of coastal lagoons give a frilly edge to this part of the state, and we are eager to see how they integrate. Many are close to the ocean, visible across some of the lakes.

Oh, and in case you thought what you have glimpsed here is the Pacific Ocean, think again. That is the Tasman Sea.

Three days - that's what we have allowed ourselves. The plan is to fan out first from a central base at Budgewoi, a tiny town about 1.5 hours from Sydney CBD. It has two lakes on its doorstep, separating Lake Budgewoi to the north from the much larger Tuggerah Lake to the south. Lake Munmorah, further north, is the third of the Tuggerah Lakes 

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Tuggerah Lakes

Day One, we head south to The Entrance, a lakeside town that has become one of the major centres on the NSW Central Coast. Over the years it has made quite a name for itself with daily public feeding of the scores of pelicans that have learned to tell the time and line up around 3pm daily on the nearby sandy spit. We missed seeing this as, when we visited, COVID restrictions still did not allow groups to gather freely.

However, the town's mascot still shows up in many places - like this firmly-closed trash can - for that is another thing these birds are known for. They can't help digging around and snacking on other people's food - especially if it is fishy!

More than anything, though, The Entrance is a fun place for families. It is an easy drive from either Newcastle to the north, or Sydney in the south, and The Waterfront area has plenty of activities for all ages.

Tuggerah Lake is probably better described as an estuary, measuring about 80 square kilometres. There is a tidal channel to the sea, explaining the town's name - The Entrance.

However, despite the laid-back, beachy vibe, there have to be rules and (you've guessed it) our now-familiar bird friends feature.  

Sculptures like this add to the lakeside decor...

...but you have to love a good coffee like this one! For more options check this out....

This area is like the Pretty Woman of locations. The Central Coast seems to get the pick of talents - close enough to Sydney for citysiders to scoot up for a meal, yet far enough away to feel relaxing. Stunning views, great accommodation, surf, sun, sand - all this, plus some serious dining possibilities.

The dream spot from central casting is not coasting though. It's powering along with new self-catering apartments, B&Bs, and more eating places (fish and chips is local and fresh and easily found) to cater for all those new faces.

A  slew of awards has confirmed what most locals already know, but weren't letting-on about.

Just south of The Entrance, Long Jetty lives up to its name. Originally built in 1915 to allow easier to access to the town of Wyong, across the lake, now it is ideal for a 350-metre walk or a spot of fishing. Once you have done that, there are also two other lengthy jetties nearby.

Up and down this part of the coast, there are many places where you may try your own skills at fishing, and the good news is that bream, blackfish, flathead, whiting and prawns are in abundance.

And if course there are plenty of opportunities for pelican-watching too! This guy is not posing. He is on duty and, if you stay for long enough, you will see him (her?) dive down and come up with a fish for the throat-sack.

The town of Long Jetty has recently acquired the profile of a fun, boho-style place to explore and relax. Perhaps it might simply be following a long tradition of holiday fun. Make sure you read the local history on this wall before heading out on the jetty, and see what you think.

Late in the day, when we return to our motel accommodation in Budgewoi, we take a stroll beside Lake Budgewoi that connects further north with Lake Munmorah. 

Find out more about this part of the coast...

Found all around the world, this is the Australian ground-nesting pelican, the largest of the world's eight species and here, it's close enough to pat - if I were brave enough!

As we ate our breakfast on the patio outside our motel room we felt truly privileged to keep this fellow company.

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Lake Macquarie

Lake Macquarie, the largest of the lakes we would see on this trip, has 32 kilometres of coastline, much of it with patrolled beaches, stretches of desert-like sand dunes, and even - for the more adventurous - sea caves. At twice the size of Sydney Harbour, it is the Southern Hemisphere''s largest coastal salt-water lake.

The range of things to do around this lake is enormous, especially the opportunity to dine, lakeside, at many restaurants and cafes.

One of the newest and best is 8 at Trinity at the recently-opened Trinity Point Marina. The vibe is casual Italian (think top-end pastas, pizzas) and we could have happily relaxed here for the day.

Fortunately, we arrived with some friends and, as the Modern Australian menu lends itself to casual sharing of many dishes, this gave us a much better range of dishes to sample. Better still, it is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Che bello!

While the seafood platters and lamb roasts will tempt you, my advice is to leave room for dessert! Queen of them all is the house-special of bread and butter pudding, above. 

Order several to share around...

Next day, after sleeping off that huge yet sensational lunch, we explore more of the lake to discover what it offers. Yachting - and in fact all sorts of aquatic pastimes - is of course at the top of the list.

For those who like to spend more time on the water, a daytime (or even an overnight) lake cruise is ideal. 

Toronto is the largest town on the western side of the lake, and about half an hour from Newcastle's CBD. It is a centre for the region, and uptown has plenty of shops and businesses. Halfway down the hill, towards the waterfront, we stop for a superb coffee and a healthy snack at Cleaver.

The foreshore has much to offer, including dining, cafes, water sports, and a swimming area. Like many places in Australia, this Federation-style rotunda has been preserved, and still is used as a stage for events. 

Further around the lake at Belmont, the lake's sailing hub, you have a choice: simply stroll along the foreshore and admire the 'marine real estate', head off along the Fernleigh Track with its oceanfront golf course, or take a dip in the Belmont Baths swimming enclosure.

And if you are still wondering WHAT ELSE there is to do around Lake Macquarie, check this out...

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Port Stephens & Nelson Bay

On the final day of our mini road-trip, just over 200 kilometres north of Sydney, via the M1, we made time to explore Nelson Bay in the jawdroppingly beautiful Port Stephens region. It is easy to get confused about which is which. Basically Port Stephens is the area with 26 beaches, a bay twice the size of Sydney Harbour, and also two lakes - plus many creeks, rivers and estuaries.

The park's diverse marine life includes many species of dolphins, turtles, fish, seabirds and seaweeds, along with threatened species. Humpback whales travel along the marine park coastline during their annual migration north.

The town of Port Nelson is a typical country town with all the things the locals need. However it comes with a side-serve of all the things visitors like too: accommodation, great eating spots and bars, tours, cruises, and plenty of activities to enjoy. 

At the marina on the waterfront, it is easy to see that many people use their own boats to explore the waterways and head for some deep-sea fishing.

And just when you think this place could not deliver any more surprises or incentives to stay on another few days, there are the Stockton Bight Sand Dunes just minutes away from Anna Bay. Ideal for those into sandboarding and quad-biking, they are also a drawcard for others who would simply prefer a tagalong 4WD tour, or a camel ride.

Half an hour's drive from the centre of town we discovered Shoal Bay and Tomaree Peninsula with its lookout and then Fingal Bay (above).

Remote and relaxing, it's not difficult to see why even the bees seem drunk on the native eucalyptus flowers' nectar.

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There was another place we were determined to see, even though it had no real link to lakes or pelicans.

Several years ago we met Carl Kenzler in Nelson Bay when he was the chef and co-owner of Ritual Restaurant, a place that took molecular cuisine to it furthest limits. His skill with flavours and textures had to be experienced, as there is no believable way to describe all the components of the multi-course dinners he and his team prepared.

Right there with him was his wife Kelie who added her chemistry expertise. It was a match made in heaven as were the meals we ate there. After Ritual closed, Carl moved across to work with Murray's Craft Brewing Co at Bobs Farm, about 15 minutes west of Nelson Bay.

He now pioneers new flavours and blends for the range of spirits that have been added to the original craft beers for which the company was initially known.

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Soldiers Point

On the map of this area, Port Stephens appears like the most difficult first piece of a jigsaw.

It separates the towns of Hawks Nest and Tea Gardens on the northern peninsula from Nelson Bay on the southern one.  Almost exactly half-way along the port from the ocean, Soldiers Point is closest to the northern side.

This part of town is the ideal hopping-off point for serious fishing, cruises and almost anything else water-related that you could think of.

We met some friends - not these ones, above, of course! - for lunch here....

...at what has to be one of the smallest and cutest dining establishments in town. Just metres from uber-costly yachts and cruisers in the marina, we relaxed over a light meal, wanting to make our time in this lovely part of the world extend much longer. 

Too soon we had to leave, as we planned to return that afternoon to Sydney, just three hours by the highway, but light years away by other measurements.

There was just one last thing to do - a detour to the Gan Gan lookout and a sight of the heads that mark the entrance to Port Stephens. Captain Cook named this body of water in 1770 as he passed by, but it was 21 years before the first ship, Salamander of the Third Fleet, sailed in.

We vowed that we would not leave it that long before a return visit to this truly beautiful place!

And then, as if we truly cannot bear to leave, we stop for one last photograph. Even if you arrive outside of whale-watching season, this is sure to put a smile on anyone's face.

Words and pictures ©Sally Hammond

Video ©Gordon Hammond

Sally and Gordon Hammond travelled independently as they researched the 'pelican coast'.