by Sally Hammond

The peach nectar schnapps is fabulous. Like nothing I have ever experienced. Come to think of it, a European aprés-ski drink named after Australian wild horses and served in decidedly un-snowy countryside is pretty bizarre too.

"Welcome to the Schnappery!" says Brad Spalding, who has been making Wild Brumby Schnapps at his Thredbo Valley Distillery for five years. His training in Austria taught him to use local and regional fruit and now his flavours include apple, pear, raspberry and peach.

Over a light meal and a sour apple slushy on the deck overlooking the garden where most of the cafés vegetables are grown, as well as raspberries for his schnapps, he tells us, "Schnapps is traditionally made in Europe in places that can't grow grapes." With a fruit selling background, an Austrian wife and a love of the Australian bush, he has brought it all together in an alternate alpine setting.

After all, this is Man from Snowy River country and Banjo Paterson knew this country well too. Its harsh conditions and rugged stockmen inspired him. So we're not surprised to see horses being led into a paddock nearby, but these are not wild, feral brumbies, now regarded as pests in some parts. Horse riding on local bush trails is one of the many activities in these parts.

In winter, there would be no discussion about what to do here. With a ski-season that extends from early-June to early-October this is Australia's premier winter-sports destination, drawing hordes of avid skiers and snowboarders each year.

But we have arrived in January. Snow is not an option. At nearby Jindabyne, after lunch and a latte at the gallery and café-rich Nuggets Crossing Shopping Centre, we trawl through brochures at the Information Centre next door. We leave with handfuls of suggestions - everything from motorcycle tours to abseiling. We could rock climb, too, or go quad biking, do a cave tour at Yarrangobilly or take a fishing tour.

Hmmm! It's a hot afternoon. Maybe we should take a break back at our cottage first, we say.

We have checked into Alpine Habitats at Crackenback Valley, roughly halfway between Thredbo and Jindabyne. It's the Snowy's newest ecologically sustainable 4.5-star accommodation, built as a year-round retreat for families, couples or groups. Our self-contained two-bedroom 'habitat' is designed to make only low impact on its pristine location. Rain and bore water systems have been installed. There is an Eco Smart open fire and even a worm farm waste management system for the toilet (which I am grateful to see still operates and flushes normally!). It's good to know, though, that our luxury experience will have left a minimal carbon footprint. 

That evening we dine at Crackenback Cottage. Owner Kerry Henderson has only been here since 2007, but the original stone cottage is much older. Already there is a new feel to the place. New chef, local produce - rabbit, venison, veal, cheese, berries - and a happy buzz from the diners around us. Next day we return for coffee on the stone terrace and enjoy the shade of the vines. Kerry tells us, "All the herbs are from the garden, and the menu changes according to the season."

The next morning we head for Thredbo, 20 or so minutes westwards, passing Novotel Lake Crackenback Resort, with its lakeside chalets, then later the Thredbo River.

Mention Thredbo and most Australians relive the awful memory of the 1997 disaster when houses and ski-lodges slipped down the mountain and 18 people were killed. Today's Thredbo is older, wiser, and this year the Ski Museum includes a display of uniforms worn by Aussies at Winter Olympics over the years.

There is so much to do in this area. Visitors should double whatever time they had planned to stay in this area. To see snow gums with their twisted ghostly white trunks daubed with brilliant colour - go to Charlottes Pass. With enough time, it would be worth making a trip to see firsthand the Snowy Mountains Hydro-Electric Scheme that took 100,000 workers from thirty countries 25 years to build. Completed in 1974, this massive hydro-electric scheme was Australia's first, and was responsible initially for much of our electricity. There are Visitor Centres at Khancoban and Talbingo.

Kosciuszko National Park, is a showpiece. Its 690,000 hectares and many kilometres of trails can be enjoyed in a number of ways - self-driving, or with a 4WD nature and farm eco tour, on guided walks to the top of Kosciuszko, self-guided walking tours from Thredbo, or an indigenous cultural history tour.

The area is rural and agricultural - not bare and alpine, perhaps my biggest surprise. Even though Thredbo's altitude is 1369 metres, and Jindabyne 918 metres, summer temperatures can reach 30C. Spring comes later here and alpine wildflowers carpet the bush and slopes in white and pink and yellow from November to April.

There are celebrations too. Tumut's strangely named Festival of the Falling Leaf features a street parade, bush dance and fireworks. This year it is scheduled for April 23^rd to 25th.

Further west, just over the Victoria border, the town of Corryong, hosts The Man from Snowy River bush festival from 8-11^th April, 2010. The original man from Snowy River is said to be buried here.

Other active things to do out of ski season include hiking, canoeing, swimming in local waterholes, helicopter scenic tours, mountain biking, (there's even a gourmet mountain bike ride), and fly fishing.

So what did we do? Well, we ate, we drank, took photographs and walked. And we chilled out. You see, the Snowy is a holiday destination that suits all energy levels - and schnapps on the deck overlooking a paddock full of grazing kangaroos, worked pretty well for me.

Next time, though, we vow to bring our hiking boots and riding clothes and participate in the other experiences on offer. Well, maybe.

FACTFILE

Getting there: Jindabyne is approximately 470 kilometres (around 5.5-6 hours' drive) from Sydney, via Canberra.

Where to stay: Alpine Habitats, Snowy Mountains newest ecologically sustainable 4 1?2 star accommodation, is five minutes from the Kosciuszko National Park entry and SkiTube (train service to snowfields) www.alpinehabitats.com.au The area has all levels of accommodation from resorts such as Novotel Lake Crackenback to ski chalets, B&Bs and caravan parks.

Best time to go: Any time. The Snowy is the ultimate all-season destination with skiing and snow sports in winter, hiking, horse riding and other active sports in summer.

What to do in summer: active sports, dining at Crackenback Cottage, schnapps tasting and dining at Wild Brumby Schnapps.

More information.