Is it a bird? Is it a bird's nest? No, it's the 11 metre Black Totem II, donated by Brett Whiteley's widow, Wendy Whiteley. It is one of his two giant sculptures, valued at $800,000, now nesting permanently in Newcastle at the Art Gallery after being relocated from Walsh Bay in October 2013.

This donation by Wendy Whiteley (through the Federal Government’s Cultural Gifts program) was made in honour of her daughter Arkie and in recognition of the Gallery’s support of Brett Whitely throughout his career. It also underscores the change in direction that is becoming very obvious in 21st-century Newcastle.

Brett was only 20 years old when the Gallery made its first purchase of his work. This early support helped kick-start his career, supporting his subsequent study abroad. This bespoke Tasmanian oak piano blends well with one of Whiteley's works.

In honor of his contributioon to Australian art, throughout summer the Gallery is hosting a Whiteley exibition – Whiteley on Water – until February 23, 2014.

Also featured are works by Margaret Olley, an Australian painter, whose life's artistic work focused on still-lifes. It is appropriate that a collection of her spent paint tubes is showcased here.

But all the art is not inside buildings. A recent Hit the Bricks festival saw many bare walls around the city filled with street art, much of it by very talented, and yet unrecognised artists, such as this one.

See what is offer in NEWCASTLE in this video:

Newcastle's history has been based on coal mining and related industries. Although coal is still mined in the region, the BHP complex closed in 1999, and nearby wine-growing in the Hunter Valley has added another dimension. With that has come an increased emphasis on the arts and dining, which in turn is luring more tourists to the area. It's a win-win for everyone, it seems.

And then there are live performances such as The Empire Spiegelworld, a hugely talented, sometimes bawdy blend of acrobatic and burlesque which is finishing its season here on December 8th. To get an idea, think, foot juggling followed by roller skate gymnastics and a balancing act you will not believe.

Cafes are also part of the renaissance of Newcastle. Locals are spoiled for choice, and while Darby Street was the original 'dining strip' now there are fine restaurants, bars and coffee shops in most parts of the CBD.

Saluna Cafe, in King Street is an example of what is on offer, delivering excellent coffee (including specialty brewing techniques) and food.

By evening, wine bars open throughout town, serving tapas-style sharing plates and oysters. On the corner of Hunter and Bolton Street two places, the elegant French-themed Le Passe Temps and, diagonally opposite, newly-opened Reserve Wine Bar (above) both in former bank buidings, cater to those who enjoy a wine-bar ambience.  

Just a little way out of the city centre, in light-industrial Wickham, Inner City Winemakers' cellar door is also an unexpected but very welcome find. Here, owners Rob Wilce and Janine Adele sell their wines and cater for evening functions surrounded by changing art exhibitions.

But every day has to end, and this three-bedroom B&B is well situated in Lambton just 15 minutes from the city centre. Newcastle's Bed and Breakfast run by Sue and Phil Quinn has been getting rave reviews from satisfied guests.

Sue is a keen cook and her breakfasts with freshly made fruit juices, generous fruit salads and cooked dishes such as the one above, served on the deck overlooking the garden, are very popular.

A decanter of port on the side table is a final thoughtful added touch.

Multi-awardwinning Moonshadow Cruises originally began in Port Stephens, north of Newcastle. Now they also run tours from Newcastle Harbour and along the Hunter river which empties into the sea nearby. These are ideal for luncheon or dinner cruises.

Formerly a busy waterfront, today's Newcastle has gentrified the area, with bars, cafes and restaurants popping up along the riverbanks.

Yet, many of Newcastle's lovely old buildings, some of which were built in the early days of the settlement remain, such as this heritage cream brick Customs House, built in 1877.

Perhaps the real lynchpin of Newcastle's skyline is Nobby's Head. Although still imposing, it is a shadow of what Captain Cook would have sighted. Originally 210 feet high, its top was cut off until it reached its current height of 90 feet. The causeway linking it to the city was created with much of the rubble removed.

An excellent way to see Nobby's up close and to get an idea of other parts of the city, complete with commentary, is to hop on the heritage tram.

Just obey the rules and all will be well!

Of course, Nobby's is much more than a decorative entrance to the harbour. This stretch of coastline has had many ships fall victim to storms, currents and rocks. Nobbys Head Lighthouse was established in 1854, the third lighthouse built in NSW. Now electric-powered, it has been unmanned since 1935.

Newcastle, pop. 308,000, settled in 1804, is 162 kilometres north of Sydney. Located at the mouth of the Hunter River, it is the main city within the Hunter Region. Famous for its coal, Newcastle is the largest coal exporting harbour in the world.

Fort Scratchley situated overlooking this beach is the only Australian fort to have fired on an enemy ship in time of war.

Daily, this original cannon is primed and fired by uniformed soldiers.

Others conduct guided tours around the various parts of the fort.

Beneath this is a labyrinth of tunnels and gun emplacements, reminding us that this was a very impressive and important fort in Australia's defenses in World War II.

The growth and change in Newcastle is impressive on other fronts too. One pioneer project, Renew Newcastle, is an initiative which has been adopted in several other countries, aims to provide artists, shopkeepers and other businesses with short-term premises using shopfronts which would otherwise be empty. One such place is this shop, Makepiece, which sells crafts  and fashion made by a cooperative of artisans.

Another, a glowing cavelike place, produces sensory pieces which are aimed at assisting people who have mental or emotional disabilities.

Yet just when you think that everything is on the move and new in NEWcastle, around the next corner you come across a delightful old building such as the Town Hall...

... or one that commemorates the past, like the War Memorial....

.... or one that brings it all together - the Newcastle Museum.

And finally, just to show that this is the city that has thought of everything, this beach beside the causeway to Nobbys Lighthouse is set aside specifically for dogs – and their owners of course!

Newcastle may have plenty of new ideas, but it has some good old-fashioned ones too.

More information about Newcastle.....

 

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UPCOMING EVENTS:

• Foodies searching for the next hot destination won’t be disappointed when they head to Maitland for the Maitland Taste, Wine & Music Festival on the 10-11 March. Not to be missed while you’re in town is Blackbird Artisan Bakery at Maitland Gaol, which creates beautiful breads and superb pastries onsite, as well as Favourite Chair Cafe, a gorgeous little cafe brimming with books in Maitland Mall, and The Pourhouse, Maitland’s newest pub which features 10 types of craft beer on tap.  

Click here to find out more about What’s On in Newcastle.