Try to imagine the early explorers attempting to cross Australia's rugged Blue Mountains. Although these ranges, to the west of Sydney, appear to be painted a deceptively benign baby-blue by the gases from multitudes of gum trees,  in reality they were (and sometimes still can be) treacherous.

The men hoped to finally break through to a panorama of plains and undulating countryside. But there were many disappointments as they were continually confronted by yet more steep bluffs and wild gorges coated with seemingly impenetrable bushland. This is wild, untouched country, yet there is a softer side once you reach the villages, especially Leura, just over a hundred kilometres from the centre of Sydney. Near the top of the range, at an elevation of almost a thousand metres, visitors feel worlds away from the city rush, and slow their pace accordingly.

Katoomba, just slightly west of Leura, and a hub for the region, was the prescription in the late 19^th-century when Sir Frederick Darley, then Sydney Chief Justice, learned that his  22-year-old daughter Lilian, had contracted TB. Hoping that the pure mountain air would save her, he planned a house there that, sadly, she did not live to see.

Many owners later, this elegant home at last realised its potential in l992 when, after an entire refurbishment and restoration, it opened as the site of Darley’s Restaurant, along with Lilianfels Blue Mountains Resort & Spa, a luxurious 86-room country house on the same grounds. 

Darley’s, the restaurant, is located in Chief Justice Darley’s original home. Today it’s Executive Chef Lee Kweiz's domain.

A meal at Darley’s is always a coveted special occasion. The hushed and polished dining room transports diners back more than a century and the menus of the succession of fine chefs has followed the tradition of making the best of local mountain produce. 

Guests can choose to sit on the verandah with views across the gardens, or inside in the stately wood-panelled dining room.

The ideal option is to stay in the area for several days. There is so mcuh to see and do. Bushwalking, the Scenic Railway, and gentler activities such as shopping and dining. One place you should not miss is the village of Leura, about four kilometres from Lilianfels.

WATCH THIS VIDEO TO SEE WHY WE VISITED  then read on to learn more.....

There are many places in Leura where you can dine, but few can resist Leura Garage with its sunny outdoor ambience.

Once upon a time this garage fixed cars and served petrol. Now, though, it functions as a fun and funky mountain pit-stop for coffee and cake, and much more. 

These days, baristas crank out fine Umami coffees and the food complements it perfectly - lots of shared dishes. Despite this, there are still quirky reminders of the site's workaday history. A wrench imbedded in the concrete floor. A stack of tyres high above. 

Open for lunch and dinner, the food is tasty and fresh, full of flavour. Pizzas, like this anchovy and potato one, are popular and best paired with deep bowls of salad. Rocket and parmesan with pomegranate balsamic went especially well with this.

Owner, James Howarth, is proud that Leura Garage is kept as environmentally friendly and energy efficient as possible. He is also passionate about using the freshest local produce in all dishes on the menu, and local organic farmer, Fabrice Rolando works in with him to achieve this. Fabrice's company First Farm Organics, grows vegetables and herbs to order – some of them rare and heritage varieties – and many are grown specifically for this restaurant.

A new addition for winter weekdays is a hot, hearty and healthy daily-changing 'soup-to-go', available for those in a hurry, from a serving window next to the coffee machine at the door.

Thousands of visitors annually make the roughly two-hour trip from Sydney for the mountains’ clean air and outdoor activities, the gasp-worthy views creating endless photo opportunities – and the delights of the chain of villages along the highway on  the ascent.

These small towns are places where you can linger over coffees and cake, browse crammed shops for souvenirs and antiques, or simply soak up the atmosphere. No prizes for guessing that the name of this popular Leura cafe is Red Door.

The more hardy visitors lace on hiking boots and hit the bushwalking trails, but others see it as the place to come in summer when Sydney, a thousand metres below at sea level, is sweltering. In winter, the magnet is Yulefest, a northern hemisphere-style seasonal celebration.

If you spend a few days in the rarefied atmosphere of the mountains, you too may feel your pace slowing. That’s good. Loiter in lovely Leura, with its quintessential village atmosphere. Here you will discover busy cafes such as Leura Gourmet Cafe & Deli.

Go for breakfast. You could easily still be there for lunch. 

There is something for everyone: luxury shops, quirky artifacts, a shop designated as a 'man cave', food.....

......and of course when days turn cooler, there is nothing much better than a steaming cup of hot chocolate. In summer an iced one is even better. It's all good at this place at the far end of The Mall. Make sure you cross over, though and find Josophan's chocolate shop half-way up the hill where you can buy loose and boxed chocolates made on the premises.

The flaky pies here are as good as they say (I know, we sampled them!) and the coffee is excellent too at this diminutive cafe.

For something very different, walk a block to a place crammed with every shape and size of teapot imaginable. The owner guess-timates there are about 4-5000 pots.

But that's not all. There are many other collectibles and a cafe with teas for sale. The museum is undergoing a large refurbishment, but remains open. The plans are for it to be fully finished in a couple of months.

Last weekend, we visited for the annual Harvest Festival, held in Leura's popular main street, The Mall. The entire street was lined with stalls and displays, and guest speakers in a nearby tent held interesting lectures on Slow Food and various aspects of gardening, beekeeping, permacuture, composting and tips on raising various crops and livestock. There were herbs and plants for sale, as the mountains in spring is a gardener's paradise. The Leura Gardens Festival is planned for October 3-11 this year.

At close to a thousand metres above sea-level, Leura's climate is much cooler than it is on the coast in Sydney. It was no surprise that as we drove through fog that morning, the day continued to be misty and 'soft' as they call it in England. The locals are a hardy bunch, though, and  a little rain was not going to keep them away from the good things on offer...

...such as this range of 100% natural ciders from Bilpin, the apple-growing centre of the mountains to the north.

Early last century, many people also came to the higher altitude of the mountains for health cures. Medlow Bath was a popular spa and the once-glamorous Hydro Majestic Hotel has now been totally revitalised. Today many local artisans have a lively interest in making scented and delightful products, some of which (like these, above) were on sale on the day of the festival.

Of course food is central to a day like this and several places offered foods ranging from decadent chocolates, chestnuts, or crisp Flemish waffles to soup, as well as tastings of wines from nearby Bathurst, over the ranges. In one tent, Darley's Restaurant's chefs took their turn at serving up fine fare for the festival.

In this case, it was local cheesemaker Jannei's goat curd tartlets and a lightly dressed autumn salad. 

This local potter, Lyn Hart, makes a wide range of colourful pots and bowls, and teaches pottery classes. Other crafts at the festival included spinning....

.......knitting, using rabbit fur (like Helen Caughney from Raw Animal handknits, above) weaving, bottling, ironwork, jewellery and handmade bags.

As a harvest festival, there were many fruits and vegetables on display and for sale. The Blue Mountains area is a rich source of cool climate produce and has a strong artisan community who know exactly what to do with the bountiful local produce.

This local company blends and packages a wide variety of teas and often serves clifftop high teas in conjunction with a local tour group.

Mention Bilpin and most people think of the orchards along the Bells Line of Road where apples are at their best. The Princess Pantry stall was selling warm apple crumble - better than your mother ever made! – as well as award-winning jams and condiments.

And to conclude the day, what better treat than this dainty and exquisite honeycomb and chocolate dessert from who else but Josophan's.

Leura.....the weather on the day may have been 'soft', but the commitment and interest in this Harvest Festival was obviously strong and positive.