Ghosts, golden honey, and great harbour views

What is it about those islands in Sydney Harbour? Apart from historic Fort Denison, I have only been to one other - and that was for a wedding.

Is it because they are taboo, not open to visitors, or just not worth seeing?

Wrong, wrong - and wrong again!

In fact, to make sure everyone knows that, Cockatoo Island has announced a rollout the red carpet and dusted off the welcome mat, on Sunday April 22, 2018 for an Open House Day. Well, Open Afternoon, really - it's from 2-5pm.

Read on to see what you can see and do.....

Luckily we were allowed a sneak peek of the island a couple of weeks ago.

So, what did we find out?

For starters, it is not hard to get to. We opted to leave from Greenwich Point because that suited us best, but others who were invited that day boarded the ferry at Circular Quay, although they could have alternatively come from Balmain or Woolwich. 

From the Quay the trip takes half an hour. From the closest wharf, Woolwich, it is just five minutes. The ferries run every half-hour in peak times, and hourly otherwise.

The island's ferry terminal is modern and leads to the main entrance on the island.

Because of its significance in Sydney's history, this former convict site is now a World Heritage Property.

Visitors see many reminders of this important status as they move around the island.

WATCH THIS VIDEO TO GET AN IDEA OF WHAT YOU MIGHT SEE....

Many visitors are surprised when they see this sign and realise that, as islands go, this one is quite small. However they soon agree that its size is out of scale with a rich and varied history.

So of course the question everyone wants to know is why was it named after a squawking, clownish white and yellow parrot?

Local indigenous people had long used this island, and when it first became a penal colony in 1839 there were many sulphur-crested cockatoos nesting on the island. Gradually the numbers diminished and no one knows (or will tell) how and why that happened. Maybe they were unhappy sharing the space with humans, or perhaps they found their eggs disappearing - perhaps adding some nutrition to the convicts' (or soldiers') sparse rations.

Whatever the reason today's Cockatoo Island is cockatoo-less. It does have a world-class view though, doesn't it?

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The island's CV is long and complex. Firstly a convict base, it later became industrialised with remnants of its dockyards in many places. There was a tough reformatory for delinquent youngsters, and now it has opened its doors again to the visiting public.

Above, is Cockatoo Island as it was in 1944, contributing greatly to the war effort.

Here is Cockatoo Island as you will find it next Sunday, or any other day of the year, when visitors are free to wander at their own pace or take a guided tour.

The Visitors Centre, just inside the main gate, has all the information you need. Among the souvenirs available you will find a sweet surprise - Sydney Gold Honey, harvested and bottled just across the harbour at Headland Park, Mosman. 

On this small island it is impossible to forget where you are. Located on the Parramatta River, upriver from the bridge, the Sydney skyline is on view wherever you go.

If glamping is your thing, it doesn't get any better than this. Waterfront views, and you don't even have to set your tent up.

All the preparation is done for you by staff on the island, and they even set out chairs you can relax on while you decide what to do next.

Glamping packages include a three-metre square tent, camping beds and mattresses, linen, sun lounges, an esky and lantern.

No, this is not some esoteric sculpture park. These are 'benders' once used in the dockyards.

There are plants of another kind here too, of course, like this fruit bearing indigenous one.

To see the most of Cockatoo Island, you must be prepared to climb a little. You won't need mountaineering gear, though, as to get the best views all you need is to climb a couple of flights of steep stone steps.

At the top you will discover beautiful Heritage Holiday houses which have been renovated and refurbished without losing the charm they had in the beginning, over a century ago.

All have been restored to the highest spec, and you can choose between the one- or two-bedroom Harbour View Apartments, the Garden Apartment or the Fire Station Studio. 

All of these will be open to view on April 22, so make sure you visit them and see for yourself.

There is an important incentive too: an exclusive special accommodation offer for those who book two night’s accommodation to receive the third free! This will be only available to attendees on the day, so come along and find out why Cockatoo Island is such a great choice for your next getaway, family gathering or special occasion.

For instance, what a lovely place this would be for a bridal party to stay for an island wedding!

Terms and conditions here....

Often, throughout the year, the island becomes the venue for festivals and events, as well as school groups camping.

The Biennale of Sydney is still on, too. The moving art installation (above) is not only clever and creative, but it brings a serious message about displacement of migrant.

The massive Industrial Precinct was the ideal venue for such huge pieces.

But what about the ghosts, I hear you saying. Yes, says our Ghost Tour guide, they are said to be here. Little wonder when you consider the pain and suffering experienced by convicts first, then the girls in the Biloela Reform School later in the island's history. 

Walk through one of these tunnels after dark, it was whispered, and you might almost certainly (well, probably) - OK, maybe - find your shoulder tapped by a friendly finger belonging to a long-ago islander. Shivery!

Back in the sunshine, we wind up the tour, but not before seeing dungeon-like solitary confinement cells and glimpsing the sad and cruel side to this lovely place.

To add balance, there again as always, beyond the ochre buildings is a flash of calm blue - that huge and historic harbour.

We found that walking around such a large precinct made us hungry....

...and thirsty...

... and it was with a sigh of relief that we were led to Contained, and its lovely Latin street food menu.

Complex and challenging, this island is one place every Sydneysider and every visitor to this harbour city should know about. Take a picnic, bring the family, or make it an evening out for dinner.

Better still, stay the night - that's what Cockatoo Island is inviting you to do!

Words and photos: Sally Hammond

Video: Gordon Hammond

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Sally and Gordon Hammond, visited by invitation of Cockatoo Island