As a final farewell to all things wintry, as the season slowly changes, here is a recipe I dreamed up when very luckily I was given about 20g of black truffles. Don't fret if you don't have any. I made this again later without them, and while it did lack a little, it was still sensational. It's a bit of work, but well worth it. Use a good selection of mushrooms - Swiss brown, enoki, oyster etc

TRUFFLED MUSHROOM RISOTTO

Mushroom stock:

Toss 400g whole white mushrooms with 2 tablespoons of olive oil for 3 minutes. Add 1 litre water. Season with salt and pepper. Cook for 30 mins. Cool, then whizz with a stick blender, then strain through a cloth or very fine strainer. Squeeze out all liquid. Reserve mushroom pulp and return the liquid to a pan over high heat, reducing to a half - about 15 minutes.

2 tablespoons oil

1 cup chopped leek

1/4 cup sherry

2-3 tablespoons dried porcini mushrooms, soaked in a little warm water

1 1/2 cups carnaroli or arborio rice infused with truffle for several days (if you have truffles!)

2 cups mushroom stock (see above)

500ml veal stock

1/2-3/4 cup of mushroom puree (reserved from stock)

salt and pepper to taste

2 or more cups mixed mushrooms, sliced

1/2 punnet enoki mushrooms*

grated sheep's cheese (Manchego)

1 small truffle, shaved

Heat oil and add leek and sauté briefly, then add rice and cook until beginning to brown slightly. Pour in sherry, add porcini mushrooms and a little warm mushroom stock, adding more as it cooks down. Add 1/2 - 3/4 cup of mushroom puree to rice. When you have used up the mushroom stock continue with veal stock and keep adding until the rice is cooked. Season to taste. It is cooked when the risotto is still a little liquid and the rice grains are separate and a little firm in the centre when you bite into one.

While risotto is cooking, saute the mixed mushrooms in butter and a splash of oil until golden and tender. Splash with sherry and turn off heat under the pan. Set aside until needed. Toss these mushrooms gently through the risotto just before serving. Top with enoki mushrooms and cheese, freshly ground black pepper and chopped parsley or tarragon. And the shaved truffle if you have some!

Serves 3-4.

* I bought these from Li Sun mushrooms in the NSW Southern Highlands at a farmers' market.