Heading west - to the land of Haggis and Happiness

If there's one thing that spells Scotland, it is haggis. And no, it is not a wee animal like this (above). Nor does it bite!

Some say haggis was introduced, centuries ago, by Norse invaders who were attempting to preserve their food during the long journey from Scandinavia. 

Today haggis, a filling and tasty dish, is found on most menus throughout this country. It began with meat and other internal organs packed into a sheep's stomach, then cooked. Today's haggis comes in many forms, but basically it is made with whatever meat is on hand, along with tasty seasonings, plus the Scottish staple, oatmeal, to help it all cling together as it bakes. It is then, traditionally, served with mashed turnips and potato. 

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So, who's for a quick zip around the Wild West (of Scotland)?

Old, old countries like Scotland always have legends. And none more mysterious than 'Nessie.

The Loch Ness Monster, may or may not lurk in the icy waters of Loch Lomond, but thousands of visitors arrive every year - just in case they can sight it.

Who knows if this 'sighting' was due to an extra dram of whisky...or the legendary creature's actual appearance?

More details...

Truth or myth, Nessie has certainly added a profitable interest in the area, to the point that some say even this place (above) has had its own chilly experiences. Check that out at their Information Centre.

Of course, this would not be Scotland without a whisky distillery. Get the spelling right, though: Scotland has no 'e' in whisky, whereas Ireland spells it as 'whiskey'. 

If there is a monster still frisking in the depths of Loch Lomond - and probably along with generations of its offspring by now - it is interesting that very few certifiable sightings have been noted.

Or is it, perhaps, that there are more than you think? Check this out...

The reason could be that Loch Ness is the largest loch by volume, containing more water than all English and Welsh lakes together.

Or it might simply mean that Mrs Aldie MacKay got it all wrong! Blame the whisky??

'Nessie' or not, no visitor to this area can disagree that there is definitely a magical dimension to the entire region.

On our cross-country drive, finally, without a sighting of any creature bigger than a woolly sheep or two, we reached our lodging for the night. Our accommodation for the night, The Dornie, was ideally situated overlooking Loch Alsh and the bridge linking to the Isle of Skye that we planned to explore the next day.

We had travelled 115 kms from the other side of Scotland, so a glass of Old Mout Cider (pronounced moot) was in order. Interestingly, harking from New Zealand, it too had travelled across the world! Who cares, it was delicious, 

These scallops, though, were north-Atlantic fresh and delicious. Read this...

The Dornie Highland Platter was robust and just as good.

There's a semi-Scandinavian feel to the colourful facades of this village, next door to The Dornie. It's unsurprising, really, as Iceland is northern Scotland's nearest neighbour, to the north-west, and Norway is about the same distance to the East.

For those who want to sample more, there is also this pub a few steps away. You can't be missed as it has PUB on its roof, and good food inside. Find out what its name means...

The iconic Eilean Donan Castle, said to be the most photographed castle in Scotland, was just a 600-metre stroll from our hotel. 

The Dornie Hotel also has front-row viewing of the Kyle of Lochalsh, and the Skye Bridge that now links Skye and the mainland. Opened in 1995, crossing is now toll-free, and it also allows people to walk the 2.5 kilometre-long bridge's pedestrian path. On a previous visit, years ago, all we could do was take the ferry crossing.

The first town we pass is Broadford. It is the second-largest town on Skye and has good access for the nearby Red Cuillins mountains. 

Skye has a distant feel to it. At times we felt as if we were in Norway when we saw fjords like this, and rivulets of melting snow from the higher parts.

The largest town on Skye is Portree, but if you think this is its main street, you are wrong. This is the busy waterfront. 

Turn right and climb up some steep steps, though, and you will find yourself in the bustling market town.

By mid-morning we needed coffee. GOOD coffee, and found it here at Birch, a small cafe in the heart of Portree. It was crammed with others who have discovered its excellent secret

As we had expected, the main street  was full of tourist-alia - featuring postcards and models of hairy highland cows and otters - as well as some beautifully artistic glass pieces and paintings.

A trip to the Highlands is incomplete without an introduction to a 'Heeland Coo'. These gentle creatures appear on dozens of souvenir pieces, making great take-home gifts but, if you are lucky enough to have one wandering up to a fence on the roadside, take a moment to say hello. Nothing beats taking time to pat their patient, woolly heads. You will remember it forever.

And yes, there are sheep here too,. It seems many have rather poor road-safety skills, hence the sign.

Skye has it all. Rugged cliffs, lakes, islands...

...endless access to water, and the opportunity to move relatively easily between islands.

For longer journeys - in this case from Armidale on Skye, to Mallaig on the mainland - there are larger vessels. We crossed fingers and were able to drive-on - a trip that took 20 minutes, saving several hours of winding travel through the mountains on the mainland.

TAKE A LOOK AT THIS  FUN VIDEO

Our trip was in late spring and the roadside rhododendrons were a delight.

Our trip to this region would not have been feasible without the web of water transport, all able to carry cars, as well as foot passengers.

On land again, and often there are small cafes or pubs where you can take a break.

On the way to Oban, from Maillag, then Fort William and following south beside Loch Linnhe, we stopped for lunch at the Castle Stalker View Cafe & Giftshop overlooking the breathtaking Castle Stalker (above) originally a fort built by the MacDougall clan in the 14th-century. 

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Finally after a long, yet fascinating day we arrived at Oban. 

Most ferries in western Scotland are operated by Caledonian MacBrayne, or CalMac. They sail to 23 islands off the west coast and have special tickets for multiple journeys (Island Hopscotch and Island Rover tickets).

However, we had discovered a problem. A major importance of our trip involved revisiting the island of Iona, but the Caledonian ships that travel from Oban to the north of Mull, we were told, were all booked out. 

There was only one alternative, a three-hour drive back the way we had come, and catching two smaller car-ferries to Fishnish, on Mull.

From Mull, we travelled another hour across the island of Mull to Fionnphort. It was a long way to go. Notice this sign - there are dozens of them.

...but it was a fascinating trip. The word 'remote' hardly covers some of these places...

...and even the sheep take no notice of humans.

We did discover though, that the Royal Mail always manages to get through.

Finally, we take the last ferry, a ten-minute one from Fionnphort to Iona. Getting here had taken us six hours from our accommodation in Oban that morning.

You're no doubt asking WHY we took so much trouble to revisit this tiny blip in the ocean?

Just what made this tiny island so important to us?

Iona has a mysterious attraction. to many people - saints, sinners, historians, students  - and tourists too.

Many years ago we had travelled with our family to Iona. We were fascinated by its remote location and its ancient history. This site, first settled in the eighth century by Irish monks were led by Saint Columba, an Irish priest.

For many centuries, Iona has been a magnet for people from many walks of life, and many beliefs.

The island still remains a deeply, almost mystical and mysterious place. The rocks on the island are said to be a thousand-million years old.

Initially a Christian destination, now people from all beliefs and walks of life are drawn to make the journey.

It is worth taking time here, as there are many gravestones, and ancient remnants from previous centuries. Paid tours are available. Learn more...

Some visitors to Iona stay on the island for days - others, like us, for just a few hours.

Despite its history, Iona has kept up with time, with discreet shops and food areas...

...and even some upmarket goodies.

Finally, like all good things, our visit came to an end, and it was time to then tackle the hour-long drive back across Mull...

... and making sure we missed out on ambling 'koos'.

Luckily - on our return journey - we were able to drive to Craignure on the northern coast of Mull, and take the much bigger ferry from there, direct to Oban. None of us wanted to do that six-hour, two-ferry trip again!

Next morning, it was finally goodbye to the islands...hoping to, one day, do as the sign above said.

We were now heading south on the mainland and (yes, again!) back to another loch, the Scottish name for a lake. This one was the famous Loch Lomond. Stopping on the roadside  at one scenic spot, we discover 'playtime' as a couple of local lads plan some canoeing.

You might also be able to see the shadow of Gordon, the never-far-away photographer, who the family has dubbed 'Where's Wally?'.

Unfortunately, we were on a tight timeframe and there was no time to take a Loch Lomond Cruise.

Whoops!

For a moment we thought we would be waiting for some time, but these drivers have probably dealt with this narrow road many times.

It was one of those times, though, when we were not at all sorry to be self-driving, rather than travelling as passengers. How would you like to edge through this tight curve with only millimetres between the two coaches and the rocks?

But that is Bonny Scotland! Never a dull moment, and always new tales to tell when we return home!

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Until next time...

Yes - there is still plenty on the Eastern side of Scotland, and we will be sharing that soon!

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Gordon and Sally Hammond travelled independently in Western Sccotland.

@ all opinions, video and photographs are their own.

Watch out for more of their travels in the United Kingdom this year.