Martyr's Bay - the name conjures up all sorts of pictures, but instead of blood-red sands and floating corpses, waves lap against pebbles speckled with green Iona stone. And overhead, the only floating object to be seen is a cheeky gull, dropping down for a closer look as you step off the ferry from Fionnphort (pronounced finna-fort), on Mull.

Iona was originally a desolate, uninhabited island, part of what was to be later called the inner Hebrides off the west coast of Scotland, but in the sixth century there began a Christian saga that is still continuing. Few places can claim to having changed religious history or contributed as much as this tiny island.

Scarcely nine miles around, about three times the size of Manhattan's Central Park, Iona has for centuries led the Christian world from its tiny outpost in the North Atlantic Sea. Few places have had such contrasts of sweet solitude and bloody battle. Monks voices have been raised in prayer for centuries, yet many times Danish and Viking invaders spilt innocent blood on the beaches. In one attack alone in 806AD, sixty eight monks were slaughtered and Martyr's Bay received its name.

Columba, an Irish monk, himself out of popularity with his church, set off in AD 563 on a dual mission. On the one hand, he felt God wanted Christianity spread to the warring heathen Picts and Scots, on the other he needed to distance himself from Ireland and had vowed solemnly that he would not settle anywhere from which he could still see his homeland. Iona fitted that criteria and ultimately he and twelve followers, fellow monks from Ireland, came ashore and established their monastery. Originally they lived in simple beehive huts, and only few remains have been found, but later more enduring structures were built, and today a strong grey abbey stands near the site of Columba's original church. It is thought that the famous Book of Kells, now housed in Trinity Library, Dublin was begun here. From this tiny outpost Columba and his followers converted north and west Scotland, spreading as far as eastern England and parts of Europe. They are credited with establishing hundreds of churches.

What is it about Iona, that has drawn pilgrims and Kings, scoffers and believers for centuries to this tiny rocky isle? Forty eight kings of Scotland were buried here, as well as rulers of Ireland and Norway. Their headstones, all but blown clean of the original engraving, now line the inner courtyard of the abbey, protected from the violent salty winds.

Why do people come now, around l50,000 in l991 alone, to worship and wonder? What is the magic that you feel, as you walk along the mile or so of roads?

Today Iona has a resident Christian community of around 25 people who live year round on the island, but between March and December the community shares its common life, work and worship with hundreds of guests from all over the world. These people stay usually for about a week, but others volunteer for a six week period. Far from being a reclusive, introspective community, members work in Britain as well on a number of innovative projects. One, the Peregrini scheme, provides training and skill-building for long-term unemployed. Issues concerning world peace, justice and ecological concerns are also being addressed. True to Columba's original vision Iona, even today, is reaching out to the world.

Today, pilgrims are still journeying to Iona - pilgrims with a purpose: to glimpse Columba's vision for themselves, and then return to spread it even further.

- Sally Hammond