by Sally Hammond Travel/United_Kingdom/Scotsman

"More coffee?" A waiter hovers at my elbow, ready to whisk my empty cup away.

It's tempting, but my Arbroath smokies (locally smoked haddock) are coming.  I have already done justice to a big bowl of oatmeal laced with the chef's secret ingredient.  What is it? I ask. The same waiter bends towards me, "Highland whisky liqueur," he whispers back with a grin.

This would not be remarkable  - just another top hotel brekkie, really - except we are travelling on an Orient Express train, the Royal Scotsman, rattling past one of the best breakfast views on earth.

Beside us lies Loch Carron with the white houses of the tiny village of Plockton (setting for the TV series Hamish Macbeth) just blotching into the distance. Metres away the water is silky in the early morning light. Feathers of mist still cling to the nearest pine-covered hilltops. This the land of Scotland's bard - Robbie Burn's country.

Even boarding the train had been exciting. After meeting in the First Class Lounge at Edinburgh's Waverley station we were led to the platform by our host, an urbane ex-army officer, on-hand specifically to be our guide and group companion.

On the red carpet stood a busby-topped bagpiper, clad in full tartan, his cheeks bursting. Scotland's unique soundtrack filled the cavernous station as he piped us aboard.

Only yesterday we visited the 13th-century Eilean Donan castle, a brooding former ruin, now restored and well-prepared to guard its promontory for another few centuries. In the distance we could make out the graceful arch of the bridge to Skye and beyond that the mountainous wild Cuillins, mere shadows in the twilight.

In the gathering dusk (and, och aye, this is Scotland, so there's a persistent drizzle too) we boarded the Royal Scotsman bus to return to our cosy train. We'd been promised Highland dancing on the platform after dinner, but most of us agreed it was too chilly for that.

Besides, that night we had one of the two formal dinners on our four-night Classic tour of the highlands, and we needed to glam up a little. Men had been advised to bring tuxes or kilts; ladies got to do their own thing, but we knew that diamonds and pearls and evening dresses are definitely not overkill in this environment.

The long table in the dining car had been set for a banquet too, and fine china and dozens of glasses sparkled in the lamplight. The train carries just 32 passengers so even by Day Two we were on first name terms with many others. The highly trained team of staff, who would fit well in any five-star hotel in the world, seem always to be on hand, patient and helpful, charming or cheery as needed. They'd learned our names instantly, but addressed us each formally as Mr or Mrs. 

Nothing seems out of the question for them. A cup of tea with the wakeup call? Certainly sir. An aperitif before dinner? Naturally! When we return from each off-train outing, Konrad, the barman, is waiting at the carriage door with a tray of drinks. Inside, someone else offers to take our coats and scarves and hang them until the next time they're needed.

The Royal Scotsman looks old. It should be heritage-listed you would think. But, no. Around twenty years ago ten Pullman carriages were totally transformed - each cabin given its own private facilities, electric heating installed throughout, and the Observation and Dining Cars decorated in a retro-glamour style - think, wood panelling, lace antimacassars, etched mirrors, candelabra.

Meals match the luxury of the train, but the menu is paced more to the expectations of the much-travelled or those to the manor born. Chef Iain Murray (one of three 'Ians' on board on this trip, but we soon get used to that) manages to whip around in his narrow sliver of a kitchen to create menus that feature the best of Scottish fare prepared to award-winning standards.

One dinner we taste roast breast of Gressingham duck, another evening panfried Kyle langoustines handed on board the night before from the fisherman who had caught them just that day. Another night the dish we all want to try makes some of our number nervous. Haggis. Surprisingly it is fragrant with spices and not too hearty. Chef Murray has cannily made it the base of a meltingly tender fillet of beef, and there are relieved smiles around the table and hums of enjoyment.

Feeding such a diverse group can be a challenge. On this trip it's mainly Europeans (English, Scots, Dutch, German) but there are some from the States, and two Australians (us). Other times, we are told, the demographic can be quite different.

The Royal Scotsman travels traditionally on old-style rails, clicketty-clacking its way north through Dundee and Keith to Inverness, then across the country to the Kyle of Lochalsh, close to Skye. It then doubles back, repeating a stretch, but no-one minds that, for this is one of the most scenic loch-side stretches. It then takes a parallel route back to Edinburgh, arriving almost four days after departure.

Leaving had been exciting, too. After meeting in the First Class Lounge at Edinburgh's Waverley station we were led to the platform by our host, an urbane ex-army officer, on-hand specifically to be our guide and group companion. We heard our first 'ooh-aah' experience of the trip before we saw it: a busby-topped bagpiper, clad in full tartan, filling the cavernous station with Scotland's unique soundtrack. Piping us aboard.

Unexpectedly, this tour is not all on rails. There are many stops where the stylish matching maroon bus waits ready to whisk us off to some nearby highlight - a distillery here, a castle there, a country estate elsewhere. On board, the Observation Car, with its wrought-iron railed platform at the rear becomes the gathering point for the group. At night we 'stable' (a delightfully equine term) at some quiet siding so we may sleep undisturbed.

Evenings are reserved for entertainment with cheese and drinks in the Observation Car: a Scottish folk fiddler one night, a bard clad like a chieftain, and musicians other times.

This Orient Express train leaves nothing to chance, and no expense is spared. The bar on board stocks 32 whiskies and almost every alcohol known, and dispenses espresso coffees. The shower in our state cabin was better than many hotels have, the amenities, 'luxe. As you'd expect, the cost is not cheap. But once on board, you can safely store your wallet in the lockable drawer in you cabin and not use it for the duration, as everything - drinks, meals, entrance fees and souvenir booklets - is included.

Too soon, it seems, the Royal Scotsman eases into Waverley station again. In the usual last-minute flurry we swap email addresses with our new-found friends, thank the staff yet again, then step onto the platform.

This is farewell and the piper is not here, of course. However each couple's bags have been neatly stacked on separate luggage trolleys.

 That's what wins people. Royal treatment, all the way

FACTFILE
Getting there: British Airways flies to London from Melbourne twice daily with regular connecting flights to Edinburgh.  

Best time to go: Tours run from April to October. Weather in the highlands of Scotland may become chilly even in summer so bring appropriate warmer clothing.

More details: Orient-Express Trains and Cruises - Freecall 1800 000 395,                   

*Arbroath smokies are a Scottish delicacy - smoked haddock, a local fish.