No, we are NOT in Hawaii!

Rather than the Pacific,or the Coral Sea on Australia's eastern seaboard, this is the Indian Ocean side of Australia.

This is the sunset coast - or, as it has been called, Australia's Coral Coast. If you doubt this, take a light aircaft tour west, out over the archipelago of islands and prepare to be astounded by turquoise water lapping salt-white crushed coral beaches that would rival those of Tahiti.

Here there are savage rocks too, and these accounted for some of the very early visitors to this region finding themselves coming ashore. Unwillingly. Read more here...

Most people associate Kalbarri, about six to seven hours' drive north of Perth, with its famous red rock gorge, sliced though by the lazy Murchison river that snakes along, hundreds of metres below the tops of the cliffs. By the time it reaches that point, almost at the coast, the river has carved its way almost 800 kilometres from far inland.

Finally, at Kalbarri, the river spreads languidly into its channel and greets the sea like a long lost friend. Cruises which operate on the high tide, morning or sunset, ensure maximum distance upriver, so that visitors may explore the river from another angle, discovering its lower reaches. It's a tranquil, low-impact way to enjoy the environment, with a chance of catching sight of birds or other wildlife.

Inland from the coast, about 35 kilometres, Kalbarri National Park is ideal for those who want to experience the area more strenuously. One of the most exciting and spectacular in Western Australia, there are still easy walks for those who just want to enjoy its grandeur. Nature's ability to carve the landscapeis awesome, and hardly ever seen better than here.

(Kalbarri National Park Lookout and the Murchison River - Australia's Coral Coast)

(Z-bend - Australia's Coral Coast)

(Nature's Window - Australia's Coral Coast)

Nature's Window provides different views of the winding gorge below from several lookouts positioned around it, and is much loved by photographers. A key attraction is Nature's Window, a natural rock arch that superbly frames the upstream view, and is a 400-metre walk from the carpark. For those eager for adventure, the eight-kilometre Loop Walk Trail beginning and ending at Nature's Window provides an unforgettable gorge experience.

For those with greater levels of fitness and experience, there are many gorge hiking options available - from one day excursions to four- or five-day extended hikes. Further information about these hikes is available from the National Park office and it is a strict requirement that all overnight groups register with Park staff before making the trip. Drinking water is not available in the National Park, so always carry your own supply.

Back at the coast, it is easy to see why many visitors never even make it to the gorges. For holidays, the small town and the sweeping sandy beaches make it a favourite with families.

And why not? There's everything you need - a wide range of accommodation options, including a well-positioned caravan park – cafes, casual restaurants, a hotel, shops, and of course several beaches ......

....and coastal walking trails and lookouts.

From this vantage point you can see the Murchison river finally reaching the ocean.

Those who have travelled further north along the coast will have seen other references to the Zuytdorp a Dutch East India Company merchant vessel which was wrecked on this coastline in 1712.

It was not located for over two hundred years, and mystery still surrounds what happened to the immense treasure it is said to have been carrying.

Read more.....

Kalbarri from the south.

Coastal pigface - not a complimentary name for a pretty flower.

Heading south for Perth on Indian Ocean Drive, there are good reasons to take it slowly, as there are many lookouts worth stopping at. Apart from the rugged scenery, there's the chance of glimpsing dolphins or eagles, or humpback whales in season (June to November) as they head north to warmer waters in order to calve, then return south afterwards.

 

Pot Alley was named by the local fishermen because they lost so many cray pots to the hazardous waters. Then there's Mushroom Rock and Shellhouse Grandstand,the Natural Bridge  and this one - Red Bluff lookout.

For whatever reason, they are worth seeing, taking a photograph and pausing and simply being awed by the immensity of the view. From here you will pass on through the southern part of Kalbarri National Park.

And then at last the beaches reappear, as well as fishermen and 4WD vehicles, ideal for driving on the firmly packed white sands.

....and so do the wildflowers in spring. See more...

Western Australia is noted for its wildflowers which range from delicate hidden orchids in the southern forests, to bright bold flowers like this, and carpets of everlastings inland. In this harsher climate, plants need to he hardy and able to survive in poorer coastal soil and with less rainfall. Those hard, thin leaves keep whatever moisture they have inside and, like gum trees, can turn edge-on to the sun for minimum contact.

Well worth a side-trip just a couple of kilometres off the highway, Leeman is a delightful coastal town. Twenty kilometres inland Stockyard Gully National Park, has an interesting underground river system, worth exploring.

These hardy bottlebrushes grow well in this sort of climate and add a brillant splash of colour to the bush, as well as many gardens.

Leeman is a windsurfing and sailing hub and it's a relaxed and fun place.

It's easy to see the locals have a good sense of humour.

From here on, there is a procession of small towns, some scarcely bigger than a fishing village, others with more facilities,but each has its own defined personality.

Even the 'welcomes' show this to be true.

If you are here in spring, the Lesueur National Park has approximately ten percent of WA's known flora and is home to 900 species of wildflowers, some found nowhere else in the world. In addition, there are around 100 species of birds who rely on the flora for survival. You can explore the park on an 18-kilometre loop drive, on a sealed road.

Two kilometres south-east of Cervantes there are more stromatolites (remember them from Shark Bay?) at Lake Thetis. A 1.5-kilometre walk around the lake will allow you to see them best.

Finally, by Jurien Bay it was time for a very late lunch and we found the ideal spot, a city-worthy spot a block back from the beach, Bay Bakery.

This part of the Western Australian coast has been fished for rock lobsters (crays) for seventy years, and is the state's largest and most valuable fishery industry. For a taste of the delicious meat, many people drop in to eat at this fun place in Cervantes. 

The Lobster Shack is just 17 kilometres north of the famous Pinnacles National Park, and has boat tours and factory tours. Tourists can also join a tour 'pot-pulling' the cray-pots, just like a real lobster fisherman.

From crays to crags, and one of the most unusual landscapes most of us will ever see.

Located within Nambung National Park, are thousands of limestone pillars, rising up like tombstones in an eerie forest of rock. The four-kilometre one-way route is carefully marked by stones on the edge of the track, and while you are free to stop and walk amongst the stones, cars must stay on the road. There is also a 1.2 kilometre signposted walk. More details....

The stones – which can be over five metres tall – reflect the dazzling sunlight and absorb heat, and it's best if you can come on a cooler day.

These strange formations have taken thousands of years to reach this stage. Even today, there is conflict over understanding how these were formed. Read more....

The Pinnacles Desert Discovery Interpretative Hall on the site explains it more clearly.

This place is unique and so spectacular that, just as we were about to leave........

.....the man -in-the-hat – the videographer – just had to film one last sequence!

 

Sally & Gordon Hammond travelled to Western Australia independently. While there they used a car fromDriveAwayHolidays.

Many thanks to Australia's Coral Coast for assisting with this trip. 

Text: ©Sally Hammond

Photographs: ©Sally Hammond (unless noted)

Video:  Gordon Hammond