The name almost suits the location as this restaurant is hiding in plain sight. Everyone can point out the giant red Coco Cola sign at the top of the hill as they approach Kings Cross. But not everyone knows that on the corner of Penny's Lane and Kings Cross Road, heading away from the Cross towards Double Bay, is a hotel that has been here for a while, and recently  extensively refurbished and rebranded as Larmont Sydney by Lancemore, a luxury boutique addition to the area's accommodation options.

Excellent news too, is that Chef Christian Colognesi agreed to head up The Hyde's kitchen for its opening in early March. 

Many diners will make the connection and realise that he has come directly from the iconic Bambini Trust Restaurant & Wine Room.

Some things to know about The Hyde: it is a city restaurant, attached to a hotel, rather than a hotel restaurant. The property's location is ideal for a quick trip to the airport in one direction, a night out in the city centre in another, or simply a place to dine and relax or share dinner with some friends before heading back to your room.

With this and the needs of his travelling diners, in mind, Chef Colognesi has created a menu that is light, healthy and above all, tasty. 

As you can see the prices are affordable, despite the fact that the tables are set with fine Riedel glassware. The wine list offers a good selection, and features some excellent ones from Lindenderry Winery, which is affiliated with the hotel group.

The chef's Italian background is never far from the dishes, as you can see. This generous entree of a whole burrata (a mozzarella cheese 'purse' filled with cream) is so delicately handled, adding only Black Russian tomatoes, whipped to a silky cream, and finished with tomato 'crumble' for a textural accent.

It is this restraint that sets The Hyde's food apart from so many other restaurants. In the same way, the main course dish (top) of slow-cooked pistachio crusted lamb rump is simply partnered by creamy cauliflower fondue topped with roasted florets, plus a colourful parade of red and yellow roasted and pickled baby beetroots.

It's early days, but the decor provides the ideal base for everything else: clean lines, an attractive flowing layout and, for diners, easy access from the street without needing to come through the hotel lobby - although that is possible too. 

Service is fast but not so speedy that there is no time for friendly conversation and some helpful local knowledge for diners from out of town, if it's needed.

Seasonality is a large factor for Chef Colognesi when planning menus. This roasted and caramelised carrot and goat cheese entree may not reappear now until next year, when figs are again in their prime. But perhaps that is a good reason to mark the date in your packet planner.

And where would a good restaurant be without a cheerful and knowledgeable maitre d'? Restaurant Manager Ivan Savic has had a solid foundation in European hotel operations and he is now bringing his expertise - and great smile - to The Hyde.

Let the chef have the final word: 'What’s happening in Potts Point is amazing,' he says. 'There’s nowhere else like it in Sydney and I am sure we will push each other to achieve our best.'

The Hyde is definitely one restaurant to put on your list of places to visit as soon as possible. Once you have, it is sure to remain as a favourite.

The Hyde Restaurant, 2-14 Kings Cross Road, Potts Point, NSW. Open 6.30am to 11pm, daily. Street and hotel parking.

- words and images ©Sally Hammond