Exploring Sri Lanka ~ a coastal odyssey

Read on, and you will see why this photo of a young Sri Lankan woman is the ideal beginning for this part of our trip...

~~~

To complete our tour of the island formerly known as Serendip and, later, Ceylon, we plan to head towards the south-western coastline before turning north, back to Colombo, the capital. It is now less than two days before our tour is over.

If you missed Part One of the trip, catch up here...

+++

White-water and classic vehicles

After coming within metres of Buddha's tooth in Kandy, then exploring the tea-gardens of the uplands, we left Nuwara Eliya, early one morning, heading south and west to Kitulgala. 

There are numerous waterfalls in Sri Lanka, and it stands to reason that the steep terrain and rushing rivers provide wonderful possibilities for various types of water activities, such as white water rafting, stream sliding and confidence jumps. See here for details...

A break at the Plantation Hotel overlooking the endpoint for rafting trips on this stretch of the Kelani Ganga River, seemed a sensible idea. We ordered a cup of Ceylon tea so that we could stay and overlook teams coming ashore up the muddy bank, and observe the mixture of relief and glorious success amongst them. None of them will ever forget this experience. 

This stretch of water is ideal for beginners as well as advanced rafters, we were told. Other locations are graded according to skill levels and experience. The choice is up to the individual: a quick dose of adrenalin on a short one-hour ride (there are grade four and five rapids) or a longer, less-stressful trip. 

The Plantation Hotel is located in Helarambe and we choose to sit outside on the terrace. There's a garden and an outdoor swimming pool, but this tractor also interested us (above) - firstly, because a Sri Lankan riverside was not where we expected to see a scarlet tractor, nor did I foresee (and this might just be my ignorance) a tractor made by Porsche!

Scattered around the grounds there were several more classic vehicles in pristine condition, but if I were to choose one to take a ride in, I reckon it would be this one, a champagne Rolls, freshly washed and sparkling in the mid-morning sunshine.

~~~

Beds and breads

Lunchtime, and our driver pulled in to Bedspace Kitchen, a three-star hotel with an outdoor dining courtyard in Unawatuna, on the far south coast. We were hungry, but they had us immediately with these 'signatures'.

While we were only here for lunch, we could see why this hotel brags that 'everyone wants to sleep with us'!

HINT: even if you order nothing else, the raw salad (see above) is worth stopping for.

Bread!

After travelling around Sri Lanka for a week, enjoying delicious Sri Lankan flatbreads, we absolutely could not resist Bedspace's generous (serves two) bread platter! I was in bread-lover's heaven.

+++

Jungle and beaches

A few minutes' drive further on, and suddenly Sri Lanka has morphed into a fun, relaxed and beachy drawcard for locals and visitors alike. We are now at the rightly-named Jungle Beach. 

Our driver stops here, pointing out the steepish sandy track down to the beach. This roadside stall does great business selling drinks and coconuts...with a friendly smile.

Sure, this beach's name underlines that the jungle is not far away, but this is a sandy stretch, just as popular for swimming as sunbathing, with a tiki-style beach bar and seafood spot.

For those less active, it's a place to relax and admire those creamy sands.

The ideal place, back at the road, to finish a beachy time.

Of course coconuts provide the best drink, and this sign says it all. The cool, clean water inside a coconut is an ideal thirst-quencher on a hot day. Somewhere beside that table is a heavy, fearsomely sharp cleaver that, with a few swipes, will take off the top of the coconut, revealing the 'water' inside. A straw is swiftly popped into the cavity, and away you go. 

Oh, and before you consign that coconut to the bin, don't forget to dig out its jelly-like flesh inside as an extra bonus.

DID YOU KNOW? Coconuts are, botanically, not 'real' nuts, and have a long history in Sri Lanka.

Read about it here...

+++

What about tuk tuks?

Of course on our trip in Sri Lanka, we travelled in a minivan, but for much of the population, a tuk tuk (or a motorbike) is the only form of transport. When you visit, if you think that these tuk tuks are everywhere, you are right. There is an estimated one million in this country that has a population of 21 million!

For the drivers, they become like a second 'home' during the long hours they are in use. Tuk tuks are very important to their owners and are often lavishly decorated and meticulously kept.

Tuk tuks are definitely not an impulse buy - they cost around US$4000 - and usually are bought strictly as a means to earn a living.

There is now also the possibility of electric-powered tuk tuks, important as a way to cut costs and help the environment. Read more...

+++

Sunset on Dewata beach

The road trip from the highlands to the southern tip of Sri Lanka had taken several hours, and we were ready to relax in the late afternoon sunshine at one of the most popular beaches a little closer to Galle.

While many visitors think of beaches as places to swim and surf and generally enjoy the water, in Sri Lanka they are also vital to the economy, as these carefully cared-for fishing vessels show.

By this time, late in the day, most of the fish caught overnight had already gone to markets and kitchens nearby, but we saw these for sale, beautifully arranged on a footpath stand and ready for someone's dinner.

Then, just when we had finished admiring those boats drawn up on the sand, what should arrive, but royalty: Ocean Queen.

A fisherman's work is never done. Soon, these boats will head off for another night of fishing well beyond the breakers, so daytime finds these men carefully checking their nets and repairing any holes.

Children and families are the same the world over. As the sun dips, and the temperature and humidity falls a little, groups come out to appreciate the sunset and cooler air. These children take it a step further, of course, repurposing a box as a (probably short-term) 'boat'.

+++

Jetwing Lighthouse Hotel, Galle

When we arrive at our hotel for the night, it feels as if we have been transported to a different Sri Lanka. Yet the beaches we have been exploring are to the south-east of the city of Galle, and here is where we will be staying tonight, a little north.

This post-modern minimalist hotel, expanded in 2013, reflects the 17th-century Dutch fort at Galle, and overlooks on the ocean from a height. Beyond a rocky promontory is the Indian Ocean.

The hotel itself appears to have been carved out of the coastal rocks. The interior is rich but restrained, with teak floors, carved wooden furniture and original paintings. 

Breakfast the next morning: here it is the ubiquitous hopper - this time holding a spicy mix of sausage and egg.

+++

Galle Fort has seen it all

Those who have heard of Galle, usually remember its chequered history of handovers: Portuguese to Dutch, Dutch to English and, of course, Sri Lankan independence in 1948.

Galle Fort is a 52-hectare fortified town, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, on a headland at the harbour entrance. Begun by the Portuguese in 1541, it has served many purposes over the centuries.

Many of the older buildings such as this Dutch Reformed church, the Groote Kerk, near the entrance to the fort, remain. Built in 1755 it is one of the country's oldest Protestant churches still in use.

Much of the fortifications are credited to the Portuguese - and the locals owe them for this, as you will see shortly.

After the Portuguese were forced to surrender in 1640 to the Dutch East India Company, the Dutch built the present fort in 1663. It was a fortified solid granite wall and three bastions, known as Sun, Moon and Star.

After the British took over the country from the Dutch in 1796, they chose to preserve the 130-hectare fort unchanged, assigning it, instead, to become the district's administrative centre.

Knowing that this part of Sri Lanka had suffered terribly in the 2004 tsunami, with trepidation we asked tour guide how this city had fared. His reply surprised us: "There was little damage here." he said, smiling, "The fort's walls are very thick and they held strong. The water broke here, of course, but it was divided and went off on either side."

Rotis are much-loved throughout the south of the sub-continent, but sadly this tiny stall nearby the fort was closed on the morning we visited. Maybe roti is more a lunch or dinner snack.

However if we had been here in ancient times, when the port was called Tarshish, we would have seen another side to this place. It is said that King Solomon received ivory, peacocks and other valuables from the seaport, and that cinnamon was exported from here as early as 1400 BC.

The king was not alone. Persians, Arabs, Greeks, Romans and Chinese, all traded with this port over the ages.

When travelling, we always enjoy browsing around new places, prepared to be surprised, and certainly were on  seeing this sign on the seawall.

A crowd was gathering as a young man built the tension, collecting tips as he did so. His plan was to jump (as surely he had done umpteen times before) over the gap in the seawall. His plan was to narrowly miss the sharp rocks at the water's edge below, and land in the ocean beyond them.

Here he goes...did he manage it?

+++

White is a popular colour for buildings in this city, and has been much-favoured for centuries. Close to the sea, and inside the fort walls, is Meera Mosque, built in 1904.

Galle Forte is packed tightly with houses and public buildings, and the web of roads and laneways within the fortified area can be confusing. The good news is that no one is ever very far from a tuk tuk - and a driver willing to show you the sights!

Also in white is the Galle Lighthouse. Built by the British, in 1848, the first lighthouse in Galle stood there until it was destroyed by fire in 1936.

The present lighthouse is 100 metres from the original site, still in Galle Fort, overlooking the harbour.

+++

Heading north to Colombo

Few will ever forget the terrible tsunami on December 26 2004 that devastated many countries in south-east Asia, with a loss of life of over 230,000. Sri Lanka was hard hit by this tragedy. After Indonesia, the island nation of Sri Lanka likely suffered the most casualties, with the death toll reported at 21,715.

Just north of Galle, the Peraliya Buddha was erected in memory of the many victims of the crowded train swept away by the tsunami.

Read more about it here....

Nearby we pause in respect at the tsunami memorial. Peraliya is a small coastal village, and on December 26th, the train from Colombo to Galle was passing this village when it was hit by towering tsunami waves, taking the lives of more than 1500 passengers, and making it the most tragic train accident in world history.

Many also died in the surrounding villages.

This graphic tribute to all who suffered stands nearby, depicting the horror and despair of those caught up in this tragedy.

+++

Turning turtle

About an hour's drive north of Galle we stop at the Amarasena Fernando Turtle Hatchery in Kosgoda. There are many turtle hatcheries along this stretch of coast, and all offer much the same experiences.

Expect to see sandy beds where turtle eggs are incubating, and baby turtles which you may be encouraged to release into the sea.

There are many who feel that this is not the way turtles should be raised and released. Others applaud the conservation efforts of the owners of these 'sanctuaries'. Make your own decision.

+++

Nearing the end

Twenty minutes north we reach Bentota.

It is lunchtime and we take a break at Amal Villa Restaurant & Bar Bentota where we are met by one of the welcoming committee!

Palm squirrels are found throughout southern India and Asia, but this little scamperer seemed to have more important issues to attend to, and did not stick around as we enjoyed our lunch in the shady gardens.

The restaurant at this hotel is noted for its seafood dishes and this choice was certainly was delicious.

This hotel is also a spa and yoga centre, so the menu caters well for those seeking healthier diets. This chilled lime and mint juice on a humid Sri Lankan day was, of course, much appreciated.

+++

...also in Bentota

Before leaving this small town, we had a very special quest.

Do you remember the lovely young woman at the beginning of this tour? When she agreed to let Gordon photograph her near home in 1997, she did not tell him her name. 

When the tsunami hit Sri Lanka, knowing how close to the coast she lived, one of our first thoughts were of her, and we often hoped that she had stayed safe.

On this visit, we asked our driver to stop in a hamlet that we remembered. We gave him the photograph and asked him to speak to a group of ladies in the street, to see if anyone knew her. Immediately they answered excitedly and we were directed to her mother's house nearby, where we were thrilled to learn that they all had survived, even though losing much in the flooding.

They were deeply touched that we cared enough to follow up that chance meeting with the young woman we now knew as Ayani.

This is perhaps, the best part of travel for us - to meet strangers who become friends, despite barriers of language and distance.

+++

Back to the busyness of Colombo

So here we are in the metropolis, tired, yet happy from our wonderful tour of the south of Sri Lanka - and we are even back in time for dinner!

Finally a heartfelt farewell to Sri Lanka...

....the island where even the palm trees symbolise love.

~~~

Text and images: ©Sally Hammond

Video: ©Gordon Hammond

Sally and Gordon Hammond travelled independently to Sri Lanka. All opinions are their own.

Our tour was organised by Marvel Tours