Up-country - a special tooth, the best cuppa...

...and elephants galore

What we could not have expected, was this!

Our itinerary has directed us north-east of Colombo, passing temples and roadside vendors, children off to school in spotless uniforms and - this lady out for a walk with her porcupines. FYI, these are Old World Porcupines, gentle non-aggressive, yet very large rodents.

As there was a language problem, we were not sure if she was there to exercise them, sell them, or ask for a tip if we took their photo. To be polite, we tipped her.

(Pic: Ceylon Roots Pty Ltd)

Marvel Tours organised a seven-day tour for us that included a wide variety of the island's historic and scenic destinations: golden and white sandy beaches, mountains, tea plantations, luxury hotels, wildlife parks, rainforest, paddy fields, ancient ruins, and cultural sites.

With such variety, we certainly planned to enjoy every moment of our time in Sri Lanka, or Ceylon as it is (even today) still sometimes called. 

To explain: Ceylon was the name given to this tear-shaped island by the early British (colonists from 1796-1948). Often called 'the pearl of the Indian Ocean', Sri Lanka is 432 kilometres long by 224 kilometres wide and, if that is not enough, it also has 3600 kilometres of pristine coastline and around a dozen UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

It is absolutely worth a visit!

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Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage

Day One and we see why Sri Lanka is proud to have the highest wild elephant numbers in Asia. What's more, it has the Big Five, and the densest wild leopard population in the world.

As we were keen to see Asian elephants, a stop at the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage was vital.

As the name suggests, these elephants had been 'at risk' - either orphaned baby elephants, separated from their herd of mothers and caring 'aunties' or, as adult elephants who have for some reason become lost in the wilderness.

This complex, which has been operating for around 45 years, offers food, exercise and company for around a hundred elephants of all ages.

Of course it has become a fascinating place for visitors as well, allowing many to see these giant animals at close range and even contribute a little to their care.

Feeding time for the baby elephants, or calves, is always popular with visitors of all ages.

Something we were not prepared for, though, was this by-product from the residents of the local 'orphanage'!

Asian elephants are very large animals. Full-grown males weigh up to five tonnes, and they consume large amounts of high-fibre foods such as grass and leaves and so - yes, you have guessed it - what goes in, must come out!

In a clever initiative, elephant excrement is now often processed into paper.

In the heat of the day, the Pinnawala elephants like nothing better than an outing to the river where, under the watchful eye of their mahouts, they are sprayed by high pressure hoses...

...and, after a gentle scrub, are encouraged to wallow in the shallow waters. 

Find out more about elephants...

Their behaviour is much like a group of school-children let out to play at the beach.

If you have enjoyed seeing these elephants, PLEASE also read more HERE....

Make sure that you DO NOT get taken for an elephant ride in this, or any other country!

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Elephantalia

Of course, anywhere that draws tourists has its own way of entertaining them whether it is at hotels, restaurants and cafes, or in shops selling mementos. Of course in Pinnawala, there are elephant-related souvenirs in every shape and size.

And, yes, of course, there is plenty of this unique paper.

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Taste Sri Lanka

It is impossible to describe Sri Lankan food in a few words. Searingly hot spices are just the beginning, but the scope of the cuisine has evolved from a stir-fry of the various nations that have affected this island's history. 

Sri Lanka is surrounded by ocean and has been a thriving port for many centuries. Naturally, over time, traders and explorers from many countries visited, sharing food (and no doubt recipes) they had discovered on their travels. Others stayed on the island, becoming part of local families. This explains why you'll find many people with surnames derived from early Portuguese settlers and sailors, such as da Silva, Fernando, and Perera. Some others have Tamil, British and Dutch names.

India, of course, is just a hop, step and a jump away to the north, across the former land-bridge, and Tamils from India's far south have greatly influenced menus too.

This pancake-with-a-purpose is called a 'hopper'. It is very different to a string hopper which is made by steaming discs of cooked noodles. Here, the hopper batter has been cooked inside a covered iron bowl until crisp and lacy. While great to nibble on, these have so much more to offer.

Almost every Sri Lankan breakfast serves these with a variety of fillings. It may be as simple as an egg hopper, in which an egg is cracked into the almost-cooked base, then the bowl covered again until it is done. Others, especially in tourist hotels, may be quite elaborate or prepared according to the diner's individual choices.

Like most Asian countries, Sri Lanka's roadside markets and small cafes are where you will find the most traditional dishes, as they are mainly selling to local people. Tourist hotels may attempt to modify some dishes, but you will soon get used to looking out for the more authentic flavours and ingredients.

Just expect them to be spicy! 

HELPFUL NOTE: If you use sour cream to deal with a burned tongue after eating Mexican food, you need to know that dairy products are not readily available in Sri Lanka, especially when dining on street food. So, what do you fight fire with in Sri Lanka? Fortunately, lime juice works quite well, and it is easily available and often served with a meal.

Find many Sri Lankan recipes here...

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Roadside discoveries

Some of us travel to see palaces and temples, others seek cultural exhibitions, or active or sporting challenges, but much can also be learned from simply watching the changing landscape (and its inhabitants) as you travel along.

While elephants and other larger animals may be a major drawcard to Sri Lanka, these cheeky little fellows are in abundance.

You'll see them swinging through the treetops, scattering across a road, pinching food from rubbish bins - or even your backpack or bag if you have been careless enough for them to see that you might have something they could steal. 

This little fellow (above) looks like he is trying to unravel a particularly difficult rope-puzzle.

Sigiriya, meaning Lion Rock, here seen from the road, is not just for tourist photos. It  has been used for over 1500 years as a rock fortress and is now popular with climbers, who can reach the top via 1200 steps cut into the rock, a climb of up to three hours, depending on fitness. Ruins of an ancient palace and the once-beautiful gardens at the top - as well as an amazing view of the surrounding countryside - is their reward.

Coconuts are a staple part of the diet in Sri Lanka, while the inedible parts are used in a wide variety of ways. 

Religion is very important to Sri Lankans and this roadside Hindu shrine honours Ganesh, the elephant-headed god of beginnings and remover of obstacles.

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Elephants roam freely at Minneriya

There are over 22 National Parks in Sri Lanka, one of the world's Top Five biodiversity hotspots. One afternoon we enjoyed a three-hour safari at Minneriya, not far from Sigiriya, as far north as we would go on this trip.

The elephants are not alone. This park is popular with around 170 different types of birds, reptiles and animals, such as wild buffalo, monkeys, deer, sloth bears as well as butterflies and many other insects.

Differing from the wetlands, this is what is referred to as a dry zone park, and there is something so special to be able to pass between these huge animals that seem almost oblivious to our presence. 

While privileged to see so many elephants, we were told that on occasions the herds come together for a 'gathering' of several hundred. There is no way of predicting when this might occur, but we were quite satisfied mingling with just this many.

When the free-roaming herd feels the need to move to better grazing, they lumber off peacefully, leaving awestruck observers like us feeling, in some way changed, for the better.

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Dambulla Cave Temple

South of the park and not far from Kandy, we climb narrow rocky steps to the top of another rock.

Believed to have been established as a temple two thousand years ago, it still functions as one.

Over the centuries, the interior of the caves have been transformed by paintings, stupas and Buddhas.

This courtyard at the top leads to the caves.

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Kandy - the land on the mountain

Initially, the British colony of Ceylon did not include the Kingdom of Kandy, a protectorate, but from 1817 to 1948 it was absorbed into the British Empire. At the heart of Kandy is Kandy Lake, an artificial lake created in the early 19th century. It is also called, more poetically, the Sea of Milk.  

One day we lunched at a restaurant across the street from this girls' school and were most impressed by its motto.

Even more impressive was our accommodation for the night, the sumptuous Grand Kandyan on a hillside overlooking the city of Kandy. 

The previous two nights, we had stayed at the Cinnamon Club hotel near Dambulla, also of a very high standard.

Another landmark of Kandy is the 27-metre Bahirawakanda Vihara Buddha Statue overlooking the city.

As we walked the streets we came across many stalls selling these beautiful flowers that seemed as popular with the ants as they were with buyers. Watch carefully and soon you will see what they are used for.

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Temple of the Tooth

Adjacent to Kandy Lake is one of the most revered places for Buddhists worldwide.

This is where Buddha's tooth is kept, and rituals are performed here three times daily .

It is so popular that we felt very lucky to have been able to find a clear view of the musicians, and people entering through the main gilded and lavishly decorated door.

In the grounds nearby finally you can see how these flowers serve a purpose as an offering.

These lights, too, are another symbolic way that Buddhists may demonstrate their faith.

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 A cultural display

Of course, when travelling to other countries, no visit to a major city is complete without a taste of the culture, and here across the lake from the Temple of the Tooth, we were entertained by an evening of colourful dance and very loud music.

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Fancy a cuppa?

While Kandy's plateau has a little elevation, as we headed south, the air became much cooler as we climbed even higher.

Very soon we had reached tea country. While the island is now called Sri Lanka, the name Ceylon also remains, a legacy from the British who established huge tea plantations in the upland areas. These superior teas were soon marketed to all the world as Ceylon tea, and the name has remained in the vocabulary of all tea-lovers.  

Although tea-pickers still pick the tiny sprigs (top three leaves only) from the tea plants by hand...

...the rolling and drying is now mechanised.

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Nuwara Eliya - the epicentre

(pronounced Noor-EL-ee-ah)

No, we have not scooted back to Britain in the middle of this trip, although it may appear so! This is Nuwara Eliya's Post Office, built during British rule. 

At around 1800 metres, the ideal elevation for tea-growing, here the air is cooler. It was much more appreciated by the English colonists who, in any country they took over, always looked for higher altitude to use for their 'hill stations'.

The goods on this market stall would never be needed in steamy Colombo.

Likewise, this climate makes dairying possible too.

Across the road from the Post Office the markets have something for everyone. Here are betel leaves, used in religious rites as well as for health, and also for wrapping spicy paan.

And, of course, it would not be a Sri Lankan market without every type of tropical and cool climate fruit.

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The Blackpool Hotel

Our stay on the final night of this leg of the journey was at The Blackpool. Designed in the colonial style mixed with modern luxury, it is surrounded by vast tea estates, and beautiful mountain views.

Dinner was served in small terracotta pots which held wonderfully spicy and tasty food, deceptively more than we would have thought.

Tired, dazzled by all we had seen and already dreaming of golden teeth and whirling dancers we signed off on this busy day in this gracious room

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Falling for Sri Lanka

By the time we left Nuwara Eliya the next morning, we felt like we had reached the natural middle of the trip. From here on we would travel south to Galle at the south western tip of the country, before finally turning north towards Colombo.

Just one more waterfall we said, as a finale...

...before it was time to move on. Watch out for the conclusion to our safari in Sri Lanka.

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To be continued....very soon!

Text & images: © Sally Hammond

Video: ©Gordon Hammond

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Sally and Gordon Hammond travelled independently in Sri Lanka. All opinions are their own. 

Marvel Tours may be contacted at www.marveltours.in

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PLEASE NOTE: This trip was taken pre-Covid, so some places may not yet be open and operating as they were at the time we visited.