Danish surprises...

...why has this tiny country captured the world's imagination?

Simple...

Here's the recipe that works for Nyhavn, in Copenhagen, the capital of Denmark.

Simply mix one narrow canal with a jammed-solid, crayon-coloured waterfront, and you have the epicentre of 'wonderful, wonderful Copenhagen'.

Moving on from there, this city is full of surprises, with state-of-the-art architecture...

...a royal heritage (now linked to Australia)...

...fairytales from the world's best story-teller...

...and a magnetic public attraction to please all ages.

But wait...there is so much more!

In fact, Denmark has the perfect recipe for visitors.

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Talking of recipes...

Day One: Fresh off the plane from Australia we fall in love, discovering the best cafe ever. It ticked all the boxes: perfect espresso, and soft cheese-filled seeded rye-bread buns (as well of dozens of other options) - even a Halloween special: pumpkin latte with whipped cream. 

We made a note of Espresso House, not wanting to forget it. Little did we know then, that we would see dozens more in every Scandinavian country we visit - as well as airport terminals - and yes, weeks later I even bought a couple of rye and cheese buns to stand-in for ho-hum aircraft meals on our long-haul flight home!

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Let's start at Nyhavn

Our accommodation in 17th-century canal-side Nyhavn is in a basement apartment, accessed via this secure courtyard. Hans Christian Andersen had once lived just a few doors away - but that was over two hundred years ago, of course.

When we visit in late 2023, the conversion rate between DKK (Danish kroner) and the Australian dollar is about 5:1. We very soon realise that Scandinavia is going to be just a bit pricey.

The closest cafe, right outside our courtyard entrance, looks promising though, except, nachos are A$31, club sandwiches A$35, smorrebrod A$49, and so on.

If you like, work out the rest for yourself (from the menu above)...

What is smorrebrod?' we ask, and discover it is not a smorgasbord - a huge feast - but a Danish open sandwich, very popular and healthy, great for sharing - and surprisingly filling.

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OK, we've had our snack, so how about a walk?

On our first morning in Nyhavn (the name means 'new harbour') we walk along the waterfront, then turn left, following the waterside. Opposite, over the water, we hear a soprano practising on the balcony of the Royal Danish Opera House.

Copenhagen (meaning Merchant's Harbour) does not over-publicise itself. This sign downplays the fact that here is an upmarket hotel and restaurant.

Like thousands of sightseers to Copenhagen we head for one of the world's most popular myths.

On the way we encounter another one, the Gefion Fountain (above) a bronze fountain depicting the Norse goddess Gefion plowing the sea with her four oxen. Although donated by the Danish Carlsberg Group, the goddess is sprayed only with pure water here!

Hans Christian Andersen turns up everywhere, of course. On our first day in Copenhagen, we locate this statue and the memorial plate, below...

...at The King's Garden (Kongens Have), in the grounds of Rosenborg Castle.

The Little Mermaid was a story made famous by Hans Christian Andersen almost two centuries ago. An easy walk from Nyhavn, the sculpture, donated to the city in 1913, remains anchored to a rock for all to see. She has had her troubles, though, over the years with vandalism. 

A modern, busy city, Copenhagen has a population of over 600,000, with surprises everywhere. Round a corner and you may find hidden parks and gardens and stately buildings; churches with spires heading for the heavens, a castle - or maybe even a glimpse of a member of the Danish Royal family, out for a bicycle ride!

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Canal life - for a week

There is always something happening on the water in Copenhagen. 

While Nyhaven is best known as Denmark's tourism epicentre, the city also has eight canals, most of which are available for swimmers.

Of course, with canals, come islands, and there is one in Copenhagen, Freetown Christiania, which does NOT welcome cameras! Seriously, make sure to abide by the rules if you go there.

In spite of the continuous water traffic, this area is remarkably quiet, no doubt because yachts move more silently.

Nights becomes busier, of course, and there are buskers to provide a musical backdrop to the happy sounds of diners enjoying the balmy outdoor evening.

We find it almost impossible to get enough of canal-side life and to actually 'live' here, even for just a week, is such a privilege.

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Let's hit the streets

Indre By (meaning 'Inner City') is the epicentre of Copenhagen's shopping and dining area, as well as the Nyhavn canal. There are, of course, several large department stores an easy walk away, and many smaller cafes, bakeries, museums and other places of interest scattered throughout Copenhagen, or Kobenhavn as it is in Danish. The name means, simply, 'merchants' port'.

Carlsberg, has a typically Danish, modest motto: 'probably the best beer in the world', and of course the company bears the Danish royal stamp of approval.

Carlsberg's brewery was founded by JC Jacobsen on 1847, and in 1970 merged with Denmark's other leading brewery, Tuborg.

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Wonderful, wonderful Copenhagen...here we are

Firstly, there's the grandeur...

...and just across the road from our new best favourite cafe (and only a two-minute walk from our apartment)...

...suddenly we feel as if we have time-travelled to Paris. This majestic building the Hotel D'Angleterre oversees it all. Elegant and luxurious, this hotel was established in 1755 and now, again fully refurbished, has a five-star rating and a Michelin restaurant.

Hmmm!! Maybe do that next time, we whisper!

Super-cute and just across the road from D'Angleterre, here is something opposite in size, yet just as inviting.

This is the tiny Taanet pa Kongens or Green Tower, a former phone tower, and now a coffee-lovers' magnet by day, and a bar and diner under the stars at night.

Nearby, King's New Square, also begun in the 17th century is an ideal place to relax for a while.

Copenhagen's architecture wanders from ancient to super-modern, but what else would you expect from a country that has been trading with the world for centuries? From the Vikings onward almost every European country has left its mark.

Nearby, we happen across a colourful corner of the park where a movie shoot is in action. While sworn to secrecy, I can reveal that it is due for release later this year, so do watch out for it.

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Stroget - the world's longest pedestrian shopping mall

Shopoholics take note!

Here, in Copenhagen you can get your daily exercise by shopping till you drop - and then some!

Here, at the entrance to the 1.1 kilometre-long buying bonanza, we decide to stock up on some sweet sustenance - and what better could we have than a Michelin ice-cream?

The dozens of shopping outlets along the way have everything from top-label clothes and jewellery to cute tourist wear.

If you are not familiar with this word, 'hygge' basically means 'hug', so that anything which makes you feel all soft and gooey and happy comes under the hygge umbrella. These thick socks look just the thing to comfy-up a chilly evening.

In many parts of Stroget, you may well be walking on flagstones from the early 1700s.

All your favourite top-end labels are on Stroget. This one is pure Danish and you'll receive a smile if you pronounce the founder's name the Danish way: Gay-org Yensen. Try it and see.

Denmark deals with open areas very well, and on this late autumn day, everyone is soaking up the sunshine.

Stroget is a pedestrians-only street. Cars may cross the street at only a few points. This fashionable thoroughfare has been in use since 1728, so one of these buildings, marked 1646 (above) predates even Stroget. The one on the other side is marked 1898.

This fine porcelain maker's works began over 250 years ago. The initial pieces were made for the Danish royal family, with the royal stamp given in 1779.

Then, over midway along our Stroget-walk we discover Helligaandskirken, the Church of the Holy Spirit...

Established in the 13th century, apart from worship... 

...it is now available for concerts and cultural events. Visitors are welcome, and we spend a quiet time admiring the ancient architecture and fittings.

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Back to the shopping...

Although we are basking in the beautiful sunshine on this day, Denmark is not always like this. Winters can be very cold in Copenhagen, dropping to below zero Celsius in winter, and because the country lies quite far north, in some parts they maybe only be a few hours of daylight may in winter.

Little wonder, then, that the locals (as well as all their tourist visitors) make the best of perfect days like the one we are having.

And what better way than to enjoy a meal seated outside?

Then, finally there is an open place, ideal for farewell bubbles...

...before we reach the busy main road - but who says the fun is all over?

Maybe we'll just walk back down Stroget again and check out some souvenirs, have a coffee, eat lunch. After all we're certainly getting exercise aren't we??

If you think that Nyhavn is the only canal that is worth touring, here is good news. There are several companies in Copenhagen offering a variety of options: short or long  tours...

...covered or uncovered boats...

 ...canal tours...

...or harbour tours, in fact any possible combination you want. Even at the end of season there is still often the chance of one last tour.

Copenhagen has so many facets. Here we pass the BLOX Cultural Centre overlooking the harbour.

In 2023, Copenhagen was appointed World Capital of Architecture by UNESCO-UIA. Throughout that year, BLOX was the epicentre of the celebrations and is now poised for use by the public as well as business companies.

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Left right, left...

Off to the palace...and  after catching them in perfect step where Stroget meets the main street, we tag along for a while,.

Daily the Danish Royal Guard marches to Amalienborg Palace, named for the summer palace of 17th-century Queen Sophie. It is now the home of King Frederik X and Queen Mary, along with other royals. 

The ceremony takes place every day, with the guard leaving Rosenborg Castle at 11:30am to arrive at Amalienborg Palace for the Changing of the Guard ceremony at noon. 

Nearby, the green dome of Frederiks Kirke otherwise known as the Marble Church, catches our interest so, after the Changing of the Guard, we walk down there. 

Nearly 150 years were needed to complete the church with its beautiful brass dome, the largest in Scandinavia, upheld by twelve intricately detailed marble columns.

This is an Evangelical Lutheran Church, and entry is free.

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Denmark as been called the happiest country in the world and so it seems only sensible to check out this museum quite near to Indre By. 

This unique place helps people to consider the happiness of various countries, and to learn what things cause happiness, as well as encouraging visitors to make comments about their own happiness.

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Heading north...

Too soon, it is time to leave Copenhagen.

We are looking forward to the next two weeks, though, as by way of change, we have booked a Cosmos Scandinavian coach tour which will take us from Denmark to Norway and then Sweden.

Heading off early, we travel north, across the stupendous 6.8km Storebaelt Bridge that opened in 1998, linking two parts of Denmark. 

Norway beckons and we will be there tomorrow, but today we have one last Danish delight to tick on our wish list.

Almost every child knows at least one of the stories penned by this writer...

Odense is an ancient town, settled for over 4000 years, but now has a much more modern reason to interest visitors. As Hans Christian Andersen's birthplace, many fans of his fairytales are drawn here.

The national flag of Denmark is called the Dannebrog. Legend has it that the flag fell from the sky in Estonia on 15 June 1219. The name means 'Danish cloth' or 'well made material' and holds the world-record of being the oldest continuously used national flag in the world.

If you think Hans Christian Andersen was a great writer, just look at those huge feet. Our guide leads our group through Odense, assures us that HCA's shoes were size 42. To prove this, she also  showed us the great man's footprints amongst the cobblestones!

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What a trip!

Already Copenhagen seems so far away, yet the memories remain. As we say farewell to Denmark while passing through rich agricultural land, once again we feel excited about what is ahead.

Stay tuned for our time in Norway - coming soon!

Gordon and Sally Hammond travelled independently to Denmark. All opinions are their own.

Words and pictures: ©Sally Hammond

Video: ©Gordon Hammond