A city with style ~ and a smile

Just what do you call a city that's built on fourteen islands, with apparently more water than land, and possibly more sea creatures than people?

All this, and it's also the capital of a country known to have the world's cheeriest outlook on life!

In this Scandinavian city, there are many small islands, so close together that Stockholm's map looks like someone messily sprinkled jigsaw pieces over it.

Despite this, this city with its population of 2.4 million, is a relaxed, fun, friendly place where almost everyone speaks English, and it's little wonder that visitors (like us, on our third visit) return time after time.

Put all this together, add the breathtaking Northern Lights that brighten the sky occasionally in the cooler months, and it is no surprise it pops up in many lists of 'friendliest' and 'most welcoming' cities worldwide.

Oh, and don't forget that the government is on the side of the locals.

New parents get paid-leave during their baby's first year, a pram, a cot (known as a 'baby box') and much more.

So, what's the catch with taxation? It's a clever, yet kind, deal where up to 50 percent of each worker's pay is returned to the government, which runs the country (of course!) but also hands out enormous returns to the people of Sweden.

Find out more about Swedish culture HERE..

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There's plenty of open air...

...whether it's outside on the cobbled street, or on offer at a streetside market.

Unfortunately as tourists, we did not have cooking facilities for these very tempting golden chanterelle mushrooms, probably picked that morning.

Nor could we use these freshly picked lingonberries, yet one more treat for our tastebuds, that we saw at the railway station near our B&B south of the city centre. 

The main problem was that we would have needed plenty of sugar and a large pan to turn these into jam. If you are keen to taste lingonberries, and can find them, here is a recipe.

We managed to taste some, though, while seated at a laneside cafe in the city. The nibble-plate of fragile toasted bread, cheese and lingonberry jam, was the ideal foil for some French cider.

Let's hear it for Eric!

Sweden's known history begins with Eric. Saint Eric, officially. 

King of Sweden for only four years in the 12th century, in Uppsala, north of the region that later became Stockholm. He remains, despite his short-term rulership, Sweden's patron saint.

Eric turns up all over the place: as Eric the Holy, Saint Eric, and Eric the Lawgiver. 

Stockholm's settlement itself came along later. It began as a Viking village, then grew up into a port, and was often eyed-off jealously by other countries over the centuries.

The name itself means 'log' in Swedish, although it may also be connected to an old German word (stock) meaning fortification. The second part of the name (holm) translates as 'islet' and is thought to refer to tiny Helgeandsholmen in central Stockholm, now home to the Swedish Parliament.

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Sculptures are everywhere in Stockholm

Stockholm is truly a 'sculpture city' and, here, at Diplomatstaden, Diana, Goddess of the Hunt rests with her captive.

Click here for more of Stockholm's outdoor artworks.

It's also a city of water-craft. Dozens of ferries are absolutely necessary to link the city's various islands and inlets.

After travelling in Denmark just over a week before this, these Scandinavian waterside buildings look somewhat familiar. 

Correct! This is Stockholm's playground. Skansen, the world's oldest open-air museum.

But that is planned as another day's treat for us...

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Stockholm City Hall

Stockholm City Hall, on the southeastern waterfront of Kungsholmen island, is among the finest works of architecture in both Stockholm and Sweden, and is also the headquarters of Stockholm’s Municipal Council. 

Visitors may climb the City Hall Tower and be rewarded with panoramic views.

In 1907, Swedish architect Ragnar Östberg won a competition to build the hall. It was a massive task which took 12 years to complete.

On our visit, we took a guided tour. A highlight is the Blue Hall, where the annual Nobel Prize ceremony takes place, but we were most dazzled by the Golden Hall's mosaics featuring 18 million gold tiles!

More details...

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Stockholm loves Shopaholics...

These fun stone lions are more that just decorative. Found in and around Stockholm inner city, they were designed by Anders Årfelt and placed at intersections as bollards to prevent cars from crossing into pedestrian zones. It has also become a symbol for a 'strong Stockholm'.

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Of course, most of the laneways and streets in Gamla Stan (Old Town) are bursting with tourist-alia.

In contrast with some other countries, though, here the products are generally stylish and of a high standard.

As with most cities, the shopping centres and malls that beckon tourists are separate from the business end of the city. We spent several hours checking out these shops.

Purely as research, you understand!

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Finally, after a busy day, we decide to make our way back to our B&B.

No day lasts forever, and so we follow the example of three Royal Guards as they end their duty of guarding Stockholm Palace. It was hard to believe that our entire day had held so much to see and do, and most of it on Gamla Stan, Stockholm's famous  'old city'.

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And then there was Day Two

Sweden's rail system is excellent, and once you get to understand how the city trains work, it's very simple.

A few years ago, on a previous visit to Stockholm, we had stayed at Gamla Stan's Hotel Victory. Its vibe is perfect for this ancient place...

...and indoors the lobby is filled with priceless memorabilia.

When we stayed here, our room had seemed hardly changed since the 1600s when the hotel was built, with murals on the wall and wooden beams in the ceiling.

However, this time, the outdoors called and we followed the endless paved alleys into a web of tiny streets. Who would have thought that Slingerbulten was a restaurant!

Everything is available: antique and souvenir shops, streetside pubs and restaurants, and ... 

...of course food. 

Swedish people are very innovative. Maybe it is because they are a little removed from their other Scandi neighbours.

After all, where else would you find ebony-black licorice ice cream? A little warning here, while the ice cream is usually quite sweet, read the labels on bags of licorice. They may be the salted version, and not to everyone's liking.

But, you may even find your ancient Swedish genes come alive with the taste!

Another thing at which the Swedes excel, is art. Here again, often it is not what you might expect, but you can be sure it is at the highest creative level.

After a steepish cobbled climb we reach the heart of Gamla Stan.

There' are those 'Danish-ish' buildings again. And of course outdoor dining. Scandinavians in general make the most of warmer days, and many Swedish people spend summer on nearby islands where they own 'summer houses'.

Unfortunately no day lasts forever, and we finally head back to our B&B, tired but enthusiastic about our next adventure.

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Skansen ~ Stockholm's playground

Finally, on our last day n Stockholm, we take a ferry to Skansen, yet another part of the jumble of islands in Stockholm.

Years ago, we had a very short glimpse of it with a guide, but this time we were going solo and planned to enjoy this outdoor museum at our leisure. 

Skansen - the world's oldest open-air museum and zoo, showcases all of Sweden with houses, animals and traditions from every part of the country. It opened originally in 1891 and now attracts around 1.3 million visitors each year. 

While this roundabout near the entrance might seem like it's little more that an side-show, do not be mistaken. There has been serious thought put into making this a 'something-for-everyone' place of interest, relaxation, learning and fun.

There are several ways to enjoy Skansen. One way is to pick a road and follow it, dipping off to one side or another, with no set plan in mind, but just generally absorbing the atmosphere. Which was pretty much what we did. There are maps and signposts at most intersections so it is not easy to become truly 'lost' in this. 75-acre playground.

The charm of Skansen is that dozens of buildings have been donated to the island, beckoning visitors to slip back into many eras of Swedish  culture. These buildings have been carefully carried to Skansen, some dismantled before being rebuilt on the island.

Between them they bring the country's history to life. Unlike museums in other cities, these buildings remind people that their country areas are as important and fascinating as immense city buildings.

Milestones such as this, now remind visitors that once the entire country was measured and directed in this way.

To add to the understanding of these places, occasionally there are explanation boards that answer any queries.

The vibrant colours of these village houses and public buildings remind us all that the ancestors of today's Swedes were immensely proud of their environment.

But it is not all about the land. Newly open, is the big Baltic Sea Science Center where you can now even experience life beneath the water's surface.

To assist visitors to understand the farming history of Sweden, rye and flax are grown in some fields. Historic kitchen gardens and plants typical of the old farmsteads make it easy to visualise how hard was the work of their time.

History is vastly important to Swedish people and here, the present day has been filled with farmyard animals.

These would have been basic to families, centuries ago.

Many visitors might never have seen grass growing on the roof of a house. While it seems cute, these slabs of turf provided valuable insulation that was vital in areas in the bitterly cold far north.

Skansen's map is vital for experiencing as much as possible. Not only do visitors learn about people and their lives.

If you follow the roads anti-clockwise from the entrance, you will discover wonderful creatures...

(pic. Gordon Hammond)

...like this Arctic Fox, now in a much warmer place in Skansen, but still sporting and good coat of insulation.

(pic. Gordon Hammond)

The European bison is Europe’s largest mammal. It became extinct in the wild in the 1920s, but thanks to European bison being kept zoos around the world, including Skansen, it was rescued and reintroduced into the wild.

It's difficult to realise that this fellow could  jump across a three-metre wide ditch or over a two-metre high fence from a standing position!

(pic. Gordon Hammond)

Sweden’s only wild feline, the lynx is mainly active at night. The lynx is the second most common of Sweden’s large predators, and is found all over the country. The largest numbers of lynx are probably in central Sweden.

Similar in many ways to a domestic cat, it is an expert stealth hunter, but lacks stamina over long distances. The shy lynx mostly moves around in the forest, and is mainly active at night.

There is so much variety, just in this part of Skansen, that you could spend a day here.

Not all animals are in enclosed areas at Skansen. We found one of these peacocks, wandering freely around the grounds.

The concept of Skansen was not just to move dozens of cottages to the island. The aim was to bring alive many eras and regions and turn them into an entire town. Bigger challenges, such as Bredablik Tower (above) with a 30-metre brick tower, were rebuilt on site.

Close to the tower, we find what every tourist wants - a place to buy quality souvenirs and, opposite, a place to eat well.

By now, it seemed that we had walked several kilometres (or should we say 'miles'?) around the island. 

Close to the exit we come across a village filled with more ancient buildings...

...where, occasionally, workers in period clothing would pass by us, setting the scene.

Skansen provides a unique, full replica of an average 19th-century Swedish town. Visitors may watch craftsmen in traditional dress, such as tanners, shoemakers, silversmiths, bakers and glass-blowers working and demonstrating their skills.

The reality of the place is so true that we almost felt that we could post a letter here and find it in our letterbox when we returned home.

Despite these dreams, finally we reset to 'real-time' and take the return ferry to Gamla Stan, blinking in surprise as we time-travel, back to 2024.

Stepping off the ferry, we found ourselves mixing with city workers, most of them dressed in the colour choice of mainly-black, and heading home after work. 

Yet, there was just one more final quirky moment.

Just metres from the busy hub of Gamla Stan is what is claimed to be the world's narrowest alley, or Mårten Trotzigs gränd, so small you can touch both walls at once as you pass through.

A fun way to finish, and, I guess it about just about sums up Stockholm. Anything and everything is available here - and it all comes with a smile.

More information on Stockholm

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Gordon and Sally Hammond travelled independently on this trip in 2024.

Text and Pictures: @Sally Hammond

Video: @Gordon Hammond