Exploring Norway's highways ~ and waterways

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Please join us on our recent trip to southern Norway

With Norway's timeless history of myths and legends - it is worth watching out for the trolls!

Although stretching back to distant history, modern Norway also has it all.

Everywhere on our tour, we found surprises and exquisite beauty. Who knows? Maybe there are even pots of gold at the end of those rainbows.

Add to this a deeply religious history, with churches crafted meticulously centuries ago...

...and wildernesses of wild beauty. Please, just watch out for the odd lumbering moose, though.

There are plenty of quirky surprises in this country, too. Often, on our trip, we saw this enigma - grass and moss growing on rooftops. It is sensible, though, as it creates the ideal insulation in the country's bitterly cold winters.

There's also more water than you could imagine in Norway's more than 1700 fjords, many extending inland along the west coast. 

Often rainbows dive into a fjord, no doubt searching for pots of gold. We wished we knew where to dig!

The coastline provides jigsaw-like bays, coves and islands - plus mesmerising views....

...while inland, there are endless webs of sparkling rivulets, rushing down to the nearest fjord.

Norway has.some of the world's deepest fjords...

...the land always brightened by splashes of red and white on homes sheltered deep in green valleys.

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However, Norway is not all water and long distances...

(although there is also plenty of that too)

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On the Norwegian leg of our Scandinavian Cosmos Tour, we begin with Oslo, Norway's capital (population 5.5 million).

DAY ONE and, for us, this way-out quirky 'ship' in the bay of Oslo seems to set the style of Norway.

She Lies is a public sculpture created by Monica Bonvicini. Made of stainless steel and glass panels, it is moored next to the Oslo Opera House. A permanent installation, it floats in the fjord on a concrete platform, rising 12 metres above the water surface. It moves in line with the tide and wind, offering constantly changing reflections.

Some of the world's greatest architects have come from this country, as do many artistes and musicians. Just think of all who have performed in Oslo's Opera House. Opened in 2008, it was built to resemble a glacier floating in the Oslofjord. A quirky invitation is on offer, too: visitors are encouraged to walk on the roof!

While we might have thought that the cuisine in Norway would be all about rye bread and cheeses, places like Spaghetteria (and the nearby Espresso House cafe) cater for other tastes and cuisines.

Our time in Oslo was limited, but our tour leader made sure we visited this must-see, a little west of the city centre. Here, in Vigeland Park, named for the sculptor, Gustav Vigeland, there are 212 bronze, granite and cast-iron sculptures.

Not only were all these sculptures created by this hugely talented man, but he also designed the outline of the park itself.

The intricacy of his work, and the stories they express could have had us here all day but, as you can see, it was also raining! Heavily. Although a full day would have been better, we had to move quickly.

The joys of travel - you may be able to organise an itinerary, but the heavens don't always cooperate!!

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Heading south-west

These timber Stave houses - were painstakingly built using local wood. Some were built centuries ago, like this one in the Telemark region. Many are built exclusively with timber, dating from medieval times. Read more...

Farming in Norway is important, as the distance between villages and towns is often long, and in winter many places are snowed in so that the locals have to rely on stores of from their own land and homes.

As we explored the fjords we discovered occasional cafes and local stores, like this cheery place, Matkanten. Located in picturesque Jondal, it is one of the five national villages in Norway.

Of course, fishing and boating are popular with locals, and seafood is top of the menu on almost every meal.

To live here amongst these jigsaw-like waterways, of course there are ferries that travel daily between isolated towns, while many others are available purely for sightseeing.

Here's a bit of trivia: The word fjord means 'a place you fare (or travel) through'.

In this region, every bay is accessible - somehow! There are over a hundred ferry connections in the western fjord area.

Find out more...

Of course everyone talks about these exceptionally beautiful places.

This huge country stretches from the North Sea in the south-west, to beyond the Arctic Circle in the north, with the majority of fjords in southern Norway.

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At Steinsdalsfossen, near the Hardangerfjord, we encountered this amazing waterfall catapulting down the steep rock face then straight downwards. Many visitors choose to also walk on the roadway that passes behind the waterfall. Look carefully and you can just see the fence in the mist high above.

Good news for those less adventurous: there are also places to relax here with cake and coffee - and an excuse to buy souvenirs.

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But everywhere has to have a dark side

Leaving Oslo and heading west to the scenic Telemark Area, we discover that there is even more history here. In  1942 and 1943, at great risk, a small band of soldiers saved many lives and altered the direction of World War II.  

READ THIS as a reminder of how bravery and skill can change history.

This translates as 'From Vemork to the world....' reminding visitors that without the great skill and bravery of a small group of soldiers, World War II would most likely have had a very different conclusion, and Europe (maybe the world as we know it today) would be entirely different.

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Breathtaking Bergen

People from all over the world are drawn to Bergen - and, after visiting this ancient place, we could see why.

Bergen harks back to around 1000AD, and was the country's capital until around 1300AD. It is now second in population-size to Oslo.

There is so much to see in Bergen, once nicknamed 'the city of seven nations'. In the bay we could not miss the imposing KL Saltfjord, built in 2011 as an Offshore Tug/Supply ship.

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Also near the port, Kjøttbasaren, an iconic 19th-century building in Bergen, dates from 1876. It was originally a meat market. Now it is a very popular restaurant area serving classic Norwegian food.

Cruise ships, ferries, private boats and bicycles - and accommodation and eateries - all are here on Bergen's waterfront.

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However our eyes were drawn to the mountains backing the city, and could not resist joining the queue for the funicular railway.

A ticket costs 130 Kroner, return, and the swift and smooth trip on the Floibanena took only a few minutes. It delivered us to the top, where we had a bird's-eye view overlooking one of the world's best panoramas.

From this viewing point at Mount Floyen, it is easy to see the shattered coastline, broken and reformed over milleniums.

Of course Bergen is a cruise-ship magnet. Welcoming nearly 700,000 cruise visitors annually, it makes sense to book ahead in the busiest seasons.

How could anyone resist a view like this?

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Exploring Bergen

Treveller's learn that whenever, wherever we travel, there always seems to never be enough time to see or do (or taste and experience) everything a destination offers.

Obviously, every first sight of any country is just a taster - a reason to make plans for another visit sometime in the future.

Some cities just seem to grab us, pleading for a return visit - and Bergen is one of those.

Host to a beautiful location, set amongst islands and coves, and of course daily harvesting of the freshest seafood, Bergen has it all. This restaurant's glassed-in dining room had views to equal it, as well as simple but delicious food (see more of that later).

Like so many Scandinavian countries, Norway uses timber for many of its buildings. Unfortunately, over the centuries, fires have destroyed many houses, some of them several times...

...like these colourful waterfront Bryggen buildings.

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As you would expect, fish show up in the most unexpected places, like this side-street mural.

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Souvenirs galore

No visitor can resist the quirky, endless number of cheeky trolls on offer in dozens of down-town shops...

...or colourful caps, mittens and gloves. Norway is a chilly place, so you will certainly be needing these.

It seems trolls are everywhere, even this one, that we caught napping high on a souvenir display shelf.

These facinating mythical Moomintrolls, were first introduced by a Finnish children's author, Tove Jansen, in 1950. They are now found everywhere in Scandinavia, as well as most English-speaking countries, and, interestingly, also Japan. 

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Taste Bergen

Bring your appetite to Bergen, especially if you appreciate all sorts of seafood.

One evening we dined at Fjellskal, the waterfront restaurant mentioned earlier. It was the ideal location for watching the city's evening lights come on.

Of course the battered fish and prawns were wonderful, all the better for the fresh air, and an opportunity for people-watching.

Throughout Scandinavia, you must never, ever, forget to sample the many versions of rye bread. It's dark, delicious and irresistible. Oh, and it's healthy!

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Moving on, and hitting the Fagernes Area fjord trail

On a fjord cruise, there is usually very little commentary because...

...the passengers provide the oohs and aahs as lush pastures, like this...

...and yet another breathtaking waterfall dashes down, over a rocky mountain precipice.

Occasionally there is a chance to relax and simply absorb the surroundings when the cruise-ship pauses for a coffee and souvenir break...

...but, soon enough, those deep waters captivate us again...

...but then, just as quickly, we come upon a tiny settlement.

These fjords and their valleys and settlements are bright as a box of coloured pencils...

...and it's little wonder why cameras or phones need to be at the ready the entire time.

The Sognefjord is over 1000 metres deep, and said to be Norway's longest and deepest fjord.

These are places of extreme beauty and quietude.

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And then, 'surprise' - we meet a railway...

The Flam railway has been described as one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world, and is one of the leading tourist attractions in Norway. The train runs from the end of Aurlandsfjord, a tributary of the Sognefjord, up to the high mountains at Myrdal station, with its stunning scenery.

Even if there is no time to take the train, a visit to the Flam Railway Museum is well worthwhile.

Construction of the railway started in 1923 and was completed in 1940. It is said to be one of the greatest engineering feats in Norway. The 20-km long railway line is one of the steepest standard gauge lines in the world.

And there is even something here for younger choo-choo fans! As well as grown-ups of course.

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Returning to earth...

Even though our cruise had lasted only a few hours, we had begun to feel part of these stunning fjords.

Finally, back on the coach that was taking us to our hotel for the night, it was a surprise to see sheep again...

...and cows!

As we head back, the mountain waters turn to a trickle ...

...the scenery becomes more gentle and familar.

Only the rainbow takes the trouble to wish us farewell from the fjords.

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Time to regroup

Our 'home' for our final night n Norway is at Fagernes, a Scandic Hotel, and very comfortable.

The hotel backed onto water and the view was captivating...

...and, as we walked the few metres to the water's edge...

...we discovered that, if we had need of it, there was a light plane at the ready to take us further! It had been a long and interesting day, with an overdose of beauty and excitement.

There was now just one final Norwegian thrill waiting for us the next day.

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Lovely Lillehammer

Lillehammer (pop.28,000) in the heart of Norway, has always been precious to this country, but local pride was accelerated when it held the winter Olympics in 1994 ...

Obviously, travelling as we were in autumn, there would be no snow-sports on our visit... 

...but the lake and its islands were glowing. 

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Finally, as we leave Noway, the Norwegian pennant still flies proudly, as if waving us goodbye.

You may wonder why this shape is used. The answer is simple and sensible. While Norway's official flag is square, the pennant is often used instead on informal occasions. This is partly because the local icy winds can easily shred flags. 

As always, Norwegians have a sensible reason for everything. This was just one more thing that we learned from this amazing, thrilling, and never-to-be-forgotten trip.

Gordon and Sally Hammond visited Norway independently.

Video: Gordon Hammond

Text & Photography: Sally Hammond

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