A day in Beijing

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Most people remember that Beijing will hosted the XXIX Olympics in August 2008 and while all eyes were on this major city then, there is much to see and do there right now.

Don’t miss this baker’s dozen of places – some well-known, others recent discoveries:

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Tian’anmen Square: This is the focus of the city – a huge open space said to be able to hold a million people at one time – with a huge picture of Mao’s smiling face at the far end. It’s a relaxed place with people flying kites, selling postcards and watches (with Mao waving on them) and of course photographing each other. Models of the smiling Olympic mascots are here too, as well as the Olympics countdown clock.

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Make friends with the pandas at Beijing Zoo. These indolent guys might amble into the sunshine for a photograph, but don’t be surprised if they simply sit in a corner of their enclosure chewing on bamboo – their favourite food.

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To the south of the main city, the imposing Temple of Heaven with its three round roofs to depict the sky over a square building denoting the earth, is where the Ming and Qing dynasty (1368 to 1911) emperors came to ask for the one thing they could not control – a good harvest. It may have once been meant for another use. The sign outside says it was named ‘The Great Hall for Sacrificial Rituals’.

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Take time to visit a silk market. The vibrant colours of the rich fabrics are tempting enough but you’ll dive for your credit cards when you see the silk quilts. To create these, thin wads of silk thread are stretched and layered – up to eighty or so at a time – to create the lightest, lushest coverlets.

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Beijing city itself is worth considering too. Even though the wide boulevards, solidly important public buildings, smart shops and orderly traffic are sometimes at odds with the often pollution-hazed horizons, it is obvious that the city is intent on leaping ahead into this century with an energy that may leave many other cities behind.

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No longer out of bounds, the Forbidden City was the imperial residence for 600 years, kept secret from the eyes of commoners. Today it is called the Palace Museum, a tranquil and beautiful magnet for all.

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Participate in an ancient tea ceremony in a tea house. This elegant and carefully executed ritual is an ideal way to begin to understand the culture of this ancient land. What’s more, you will also taste several teas and unwind in the tranquil setting.

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At the pagoda-like Summer Palace, built around K’unming Lake in the northwest of the city, walk across the white, multi-arched, and suitably Venetian-looking Marco Polo bridge and take a boat that looks like a mini summer-house perched on a dragon’s back. Then stroll down the world’s longest corridor beside the lake.

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A dinner of Peking duck is always a must. Try for a table near the kitchen’s viewing window and watch as the chefs swing out convoys of gleaming tanned ducks. You will be served crispy slice duck and a steamer full of thin pancakes so you can roll your own.

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For a dose of culture, there is always the Opera, and every visitor should indulge in this too. Forget heavy lyrics and yawn-worthy tedium. Although the words may not be understandable, and the music is oriental, the skill of the actors and the colour and pizzazz of the costumes, intricately sculpted and beaded, embroidered and tailored to the nth degree, are gasp-worthy.

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The Sacred Way by the Ming tombs is lined by giant stone animal and human sculptures in a tranquil garden setting. It’s easy to recognize the lion, horse, camel, elephant, and tortoise, but watch out for the mythical beasts: xiezhi (a sort of unicorn), a qilin, dragon, and phoenix.

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Wangfujiang Street’s extensive, food-only night market has to be seen to be believed. Stall after stall offers huge selections of raw foods ready to be cooked – mainly grilled or steamed – to order. All the mainstream foods are there of course: fish, chicken, vegetables, tofu, even toffee-dipped fruit. The fact that some of the skewers also hold skinned snake, or are beaded with silkworm grubs should not deter you. Do notice the centipedes!

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Take a cycle rickshaw ride through the labyrinth of narrow alleys of a canal-side hutong, one of Beijing’s few remaining villages. These quaint stone houses lined by identical doorways and gates are wrapped around serene courtyards generally locked off from the street by heavy doors. Some allow a peep into another world and offer lunches for tour groups. One operates as a bed and breakfast.

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This ancient city which has endured so much: wars, revolution, emperors and dissidents. There are palaces and tombs, shopping centres, temples and humble homes opening their doors to strangers. In 2008 Beijing opened its doors to an eager, wondering world, and continues to do so.

DID YOU KNOW?

Beijing’s name means ‘northern capital’, and since 1949 it has been the capital of the People’s Republic of China. It has a population of sixteen or seventeen million people. No one is exactly sure how many, as it is growing at such a rate.

The official Olympic mascots were called ‘the Five Friendlies’, cute cartoon-like takes on three Chinese animals: a fish, panda, and Tibetan antelope, as well as a swallow, and fire to symbolize the Olympic Flame.

The Chinese name for pandas translates as ‘giant cat bear’. An adult panda will consume up to 12 to 15 kilograms of bamboo branches, stems and leaves daily, although they can eat up to 38 kilograms – around 40 percent of their average body weight.

 

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