Big, bold and beautiful

It's May when we visit Alaska, and spring is running late. The pussy willows have only just begun to flower, but we're told that within days the trees will be covered in blossom. The growing season is short up here - far closer to the Arctic Circle than the equator - roughly 60 degrees north, in fact. In ninety days plants must grow, mature, flower and fruit. They do it with time to spare because of the long, long days of brilliant sunshine and the richest volcanic soil you could find.

We visit Anchorage, of course. You have to love a city that delivers snowcapped mountain views at the end of most of the city's streets. It's not the capital (Juneau is) but it's Alaska's largest city (pop. 300,000). Alaska is the US's largest state (twice the size of Texas, the locals are quick to say) and second-newest. Alaska was admitted to the Union on January 3, 1959. Long before that - in 1867 - it was bought from Russia for $7.2 million. Which sounds a lot, but equates to about 2c an acre in today's adjusted currency.

Day One, to orient ourselves we hop on the city trolley that rattles around the city centre and environs. We se the Alaska Railway headquarters, a crucial link especially in the early days, the weekend markets, the airport crammed with small planes (more of them later) and the Earthquake Park, the worst hit area in the infamous Good Friday quake of 1964.

Despite the scenic surroundings and the clear air and clean waters, there are some drawbacks to north-west America, and earthquakes are possible (and attendant tsunamis too) in this unstable rim of the Pacific are relatively frequent by other country's standards. The 1964 one was a biggie (9.2) and demolished many of Anchorage's buildings.

WATCH THIS VIDEO and join Cyrus and Jayden for a ride on the trolley!

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At the edge of the harbour Captain James Cook's statue looks out over waters he travelled almost 250 years ago. The plaque calls him the 'greatest explorer-navigator the world has known' and it is difficult to comprehend that he completed his three major voyages which mapped and explored almost the entire Pacific Ocean, in under 11 years.

A signpost in the main street, outside the information centre also underlines that Anchorage is a long way from almost anywhere, including sister-city Darwin.

Knowing this, it's hardly surprising that many locals have a pilot's license and many of those also own a plane. We pass Lake Hood and dozens of small planes tied up beside tiny cabins, much in the same way that other people would park a car.

Nearby, as we skirted the airport, we had to 'yield' to an aircraft as it taxied across our road. Of course while the planes allow people to reach far-flung relatives and essential jobs, they are often the means of taking part in huntin', shootin', and fishin', the state's major past-times. After all, what could be simpler than to hop in your little plane and take off into the blue to catch your dinner? 

Nature is part of the charm (and danger) of the north-west. At Potter Marsh we hiked along the boardwalks where locals armed with mighty cameras and binoculars took time out to chat with tourists and kids on a family day out.

Informative signs pointed out which birds you might expect to see, but on our visit we find the birds, obeying the season and not the signs, were late arriving on their migrations.

If you drive about three hours from Anchorage to the coast, this crusty old gold-digger might welcome you to Seward. This whole area was once alive with prospectors and miners. The latter were nicknamed 'sourdoughs' because they carried a pouch of bread starter in their kit. Try as we might we could not find a good loaf of sourdough anywhere, though.

Seward's Alaska SeaLife Center is a must to visit, explaining the vital link between the area and all forms of marine life.

Sea birds are not forgotten, either, and there are many breeding pairs in the rookery on site.

The coastline of this wildly beautiful area  is cut through repeatedly by fjords and many visitors spend a few hours on a boat such as this exploring the region and glimpsing whales and seals and other creatures.

About half-way between Seward and Anchorage, the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center has moose and black bear, brown bear, bison, elks and dozens more species being faithfully preserved and bred, ready to be released back into the wilds.

Despite signs like this, we only sight one distant moose during our first days in Alaska, and are a little disappointed, although they can be cantankerous if approached (even stomping some unfortunates to death) and dangerous to hit with a car.

These moose were separated by a strong fence....

.....as were these brown bears, another formidable local animal.

But not all local wildlife is behind bars. Some are farmed nearby and we visit this cooperative industry, right in the centre of Anchorage to learn about how local Inuit people knit feather soft caps and scarves from the soft wool of the musk-ox.

While Anchorage is indisputably part of USA, with diners such as the iconic City Diner but... 

......there is a more laid-back, frontier-feel to the place. Reindeer meat is used for hot dogs and jerky, and locally caught king salmon and Alaskan crab are on every menu

Halibut is another delicious local fish, growing to huge size, and here beautifully prepared at Sacks Cafe, a local Anchorage restaurant.

Many visitors take home a unique souvenir. The ulu is an Alaskan creation and something like a mezzaluna, useful for many kitchen tasks. We visit the factory near the railway and see a battery of ulus of every size. 

During our few days in Anchorage we stay at Copper Whale Inn, a comfortable bed and breakfast in a historic house, and so centrally located we can walk to most of the city sights. 

Alaska is a state of contrasts and extremes, a place that has baffled and beckoned people for decades. We cross our fingers and make a wish we will return someday too.

More information on Alaska.....