Cheese, cows and a glimpse of a tasty (and noisy) Swiss alpine celebration

An early start and a train ride on a misty morning that becomes solid drizzle in the Jura Mountains upland from Lake Geneva, leads us to Les Charbonnières almost on the border of France. In fact if the French border in the north, between Germany and Alsace, and France's Haute Savoie south of Geneva had been connected, then this region of Switzerland would fit neatly, like a jigsaw piece into France!

Named for the charcoal burners, workers who once laboured in these wooded regions, today the cleared land is home to dairy cattle whose milk is the basis of today's celebration.

Cheese is star of this annual festival and appears on every stall - even in crusty breads.

Today is 'ladies' day' and these 'girls' are dressed for the occasion - although you have to wonder what is going through their bovine heads under those flowery hats.

The Fête du Vacherin is held in Les Charbonnières in September of each year.

This traditional festival celebrates the annual descent of the cows from the mountains into the stables where they spend the winter. The animals are decorated for this special occasion, and men and women dress up in traditional clothing to bring rustic Switzerland alive for visitors to enjoy. And of course, the latest Vacherin Mont-d’Or cheese is unveiled and presented in a festive setting.

Watch the video to see it in action (below)

Vacherin Mont-d’Or is only available from September to late March. This limitation is due to the fact that, traditionally, the cows were brought down from the mountains to spend winter in the stables. This naturally led to smaller production volumes, and this tradition is still maintained today. 

According to legend, a soldier in General Bourbaki’s army brought the recipe to Les Charbonnières in 1871. Documents in the archives, however, record deliveries of Vacherin as early as 1845.

La Société de Laiterie de Charbonnières was founded in 1865. It soon began producing Vacherin Mont-d’Or which was finished by Jules-Moïse Rochat. Word spread quickly throughout the country and the cheese became a prize-winner at numerous exhibitions.

Vacherin Mont-d’Or’s unique flavour is derived from its traditional production methods. A handful of producers deliver Vacherin to a select group of affineurs (finishers) who then refine the cheese. Those thin strips of wood that wrap each vacherin add a subtle flavour and are cut straight off the log with a tool much like a heavy-duty cheese slicer.

Whole Baked Vacherin  (4 servings)

800g Vacherin (not too mature)

100ml dry white wine

Prick the surface of the vacherin and sprinkle with wine. Carefully wrap the box in two layers of aluminium foil and place into a hot oven (200°C) for 25 minutea, then remove from the oven and allow to cool.

Remove the foil, divide the cheese into four servings and place on warm plates. Serve with farmhouse bread or baked potatoes.

Vacherin is just one of just six Swiss cheeses to be awarded the prestigious certified label of origin (AOC). This requires each stage of production to take place within the region of origin, guaranteeing the distinct character that, in this case, gives Vacherin its unmistakable identity.

Consumers are assured of enjoying an authentic product.

At today's cheese festival there are many other local cheeses on offer.

But above all, it is a day of fun and entertainment - despite the rain!

These heave cow-bells are heavy - and noisy - but they are necessary to enable farmers to locate their cows across the mountain meadows.

Visitors to the fete are allowed to buy souvenir bells, but you need to consider their weight if you are flying home! Observers also need to spare a thought for the bell-ringers who entertain the crowd (see the video (above) on this page). 

Alpenhorns provided a mournful melody.....

......and the Swiss flag twirled a dozen ways, kept the crowds entertained...

...but at an event like this, there is always more food.

Even though we're in the French-speaking region of Switzerland, this German-accented dish is a reminder that Switzerland embraces three languages. And a classic apple sauce and crumble dish is a favourite to suit everyone.

Dense rye and sourdough breads and hearty sausages make ideal snacks or something to take home for supper - ideal to go with the cheese and wine of course!

Simmental cattle are a versatile breed of cattle originating in the valley of the Simme river, in the Bernese Oberland of western Switzerland and prized for their excellent milk yield.

In the end, we realise that the real stars of this show are the cows responsible for the creamy milk they provide - although credit also needs to be given to the rich mountain grasses on which the cattle feed, as well as the farmers who tend the cattle, and the cheesemakers who painstakingly recreate the same exceptional cheeses each season.

This process, as well as the delightful festival is really a complex collaborative team effort, and we feel honoured to have had this experience.

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Now there is also a book, in French, which traces the history of this signature cheese of the Jura. More details....

At this, the 16th Fete du vacherin Mont d'Or, nothing could dampen the spirits of the locals. The festivities would go on until dark, and maybe longer, and next September once again the Jura will celebrate the world-famous cheese girdled by shaved pine that was created so long ago in these misty mountains.

Read more about upcoming events...

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Switzerland's Most Mispronounced Cities

Switzerland Tourism has shared the correct articulation to five of the most mispronounced Swiss cities to help travellers avoid confused faces when referring to these destinations. 

The entry and exit port for most flights, the country’s finance capital of Zurich is sometimes called ‘Zoo-Rich’. Correctly pronounced as ‘Zoo-Rihk’, the city is located on the northern point of Lake Zurich in north-central Switzerland. Once perceived a grey and dull banking city, today, its vibrant nightlife and revitalized food scene is the place to be for trendy bars, cafes and boutique shops.

Next is Switzerland’s art and architecture capital of Basel. Often pronounced as ‘Bay-zel’, the correct pronunciation is ‘Baa-zel’. Strategically located on the River Rhine bordering France and Germany, Basel is an important river cruise hub and home to the world famous Art Basel.

Then, there is Luzern or Lucerne, which many travellers call ‘Loosen’ or Loo-Sern. Pronounced ‘Loot-Sern’, this historic city is home to the iconic Chapel Bridge, the oldest covered bridge in Europe; The Lion Monument, a commemoration of the hundreds of Swiss guards who were massacred during the 1792 French revolution; and the highly interactive Swiss Museum of Transport, the most visited museum in the country. It is also the gateway to Mount Titlis and the end/starting point of the panoramic Lucerne – Interlaken Express which links to the GoldenPass Line.

Often confused with Luzern is the city of Lausanne. Referred to by many as ‘Loss-Anne’, the correct pronunciation is ‘Loh-Zahn’. The fourth largest city in Switzerland and situated on the shores of Lake Geneva, Lausanne is an important university town and an international sports centre. It’s also about half an hour’s train ride to Geneva and 17mins to Montreux. 

Finally, Jungfraujoch has had its fair share of being called ‘Joong-frau-jock’. 'Yoong-frow-yock’, as it is correctly pronounced, is a World Heritage Site and one of the most popular and highly visited summits in the Bernese Alps. It is also home to Europe’s highest mountain railway stations at 3,454m asl.

For more information on these cities and others, visit www.myswitzerland.com/. 

Words & images: ©Sally Hammond

Video: ©Gordon Hammond