The lake that has EVERYTHING

Eyebrow-shaped Lake Geneva is more than just an arched statement about two countries. One of the largest lakes in Western Europe, its waters lap both Switzerland and France and, at an average elevation of 372 metres, it's high. However, it is only a tenth of Lake Titicaca, the world's highest navigable lake. At 73 kilmetres long, it is still impressive, and exploring it makes for a lovely day (or more) either along its roadside banks, or on the water.

It's late September when we visit, early autumn, and none of this really matters. The seagulls have strung themselves on a convenient rope, and those useful little yellow waterbuses are proving themselves invaluable to people wanting to cross the water at this far end of the lake near the CBD of Geneva.

There is a bridge or two and, on the waterfront we discover an ancient clock, coincidentally poised across the lake from the emblems of the Swiss watchmaking idustry, Tissot, Omega et al.

+++

Enjoy Food and Travel's video (below) of a stroll around Geneva's lakeside.

The precise Swiss people (which is what has made them so very good as watchmaking, after all) have footnoted the clock with this brass plaque, explaining its innovative history.

In fact, Switzerland itself runs a bit like clockwork. Buttoned-down and punctual, with great attention to detail, it shows even in the formal gardens in a public park on the waterfront. The monument, in case you're wondering – you were, weren't you? – is only connected to Geneva by money. This again is predictable, as apart from clocks, Switzerland other historical hobby is banking.

In this case, the Brunswick Monument (above) was built in 1879 to commemorate the life of Charles II, Duke of Brunswick (1804 - 1873). He bequeathed his fortune to the city of Geneva in exchange for a mausoleum  to be built in his name, specifying that it must be a replica of the Scaliger Tombs in Verona, Italy.

This character was another fan of Geneva. Controversial comedian and film star Charlie Chaplin settled in Corsier-sur-Vevey in 1953, and this statue at Vevey, about halfway along the lake overlooks the views he and his family loved so much. He stayed here until his death in  1977, at the age of 88.

Immediately opposite, is this strange and eyecatching addition to the lake. Love it or hate it it's here to stay, and the locals have even cemented a couple of chairs on the rocks so people can get even closer and admire the view in comfort. Read more about it....

The nearby Lavaux vineyards that drop sharply to the shores of the lake are a testimony to a thousand years of labour and the strength of the largely under-acclaimed Swiss wine industry. The latter doesn't seem to worry the Swiss who happily consume most of what the country produces and pronounce it excellent.

Read more about these UNESCO World Heritage Listed, almost vertical vineyards here....

A large proportion, around 70 percent, of the wines are made with this grape. Chasselas, Switzerland's second-most grown grape variety, not only makes excellent full, dry and fruity white wines, but some are kept to be harvested as table grapes like these.

On a summer-hot day we take a luncheon cruise the entire length of the lake on the paddlesteamer La Suisse. It is a leisurely way to enjoy the lake as well as to sample good Swiss food.

Our destination, and for those on a round trip, turn around and head back to Geneva. Others step ashore to see more of Chillon Castle, or Chateau de Chillon. This medieval fortress, three kilometres from Montreaux at the far end of the lake, was begun around a thousand years ago. With a timespan like that, many buildings have multiple uses, and this place  is no exception.

From the mid-12th century, the castle was home to the Counts of Savoy, and it was greatly expanded in the 13th century by Pietro II. The Castle was never taken in a siege, but it did change hands through treaties over the centuries.

Lord Byron, brought attention to it with his poem The Prisoner Of Chillon (1816) about François de Bonivard, a Genevois monk and politician who was imprisoned there from 1530 to 1536; Byron also carved his name on a pillar of the dungeon. This castle is also one of the settings in Henry James's novella Daisy Miller (1878).

The day we visited, we found it snoozing in the sunshine, hosting visitors who, muttering about the heat, tramped over the age-old cobblestoned paths and ducked into shady rooms for a bit of respite.

With an impressive burst of steam, La Suisse leaves the jetty at Chillon Castle and turns back up the lake.

Back in the city, the ducks and swans have claimed their share of waterfront real estate.......  

....as have the major hotels and corporate headquarters of many impressive brands.

Because of its position in the centre of several other much-visited countries, Geneva gets its fair share of tourism, but unlike many places it is not overawed by the tourist dollar.

History is divided as to the origin of the Swiss flag, but the Red Cross symbol used by the International Committee of the Red Cross, a red cross on white background, was the original protection symbol declared at the first Geneva Convention, the Convention for the Amelioration of the Condition of the Wounded in Armies in the Field of 1864.

According to the ICRC, the design was based on the Swiss flag by reversing of the colours of that flag, in order to honor Switzerland, where the first Geneva Convention was held.

It is a charming story, however, no historic record  earlier than 1906 has been found of an association of the Red Cross emblem with the flag of Switzerland.

And in case you might think that Charlie Chaplin was alone in seeking out a life in this area, you can be sure he was not. This lovely area has long attrected creative types. Mary and Percy Shelley and Lord Byron holidayed by the lake and wrote ghost stories, one of which became the basis for the novel Frankenstein.

Vladimir Lenin rented a little "chalet" at the French bank, near Geneva and David Bowie moved to a chalet to the north of Lake Geneva in 1976, which inspired him to take up painting and informed the first stages of the "Berlin Trilogy". 

Pop singer Phil Collins lives in a home overlooking the lake. Rock band Queen owned and operated Mountain Recording Studios (which is still in use today) in Montreux; a statue of lead-singer Freddie Mercury, who also owned a second home in Montreux, stands on the northern shore of the lake, while ex-Formula 1 driver Michael Schumacher lives with his family in a home overlooking the lake.

Now it's time to discuss the famous water-jet visible from most parts of Geneva. The Jet d'Eau is one of the city's most famous landmarks, and also one of the largest fountains in the world.

Situated at the point where Lake Geneva empties into the Rhone River, it is also visible from the air. Five hundred litres of water per second are jetted to an altitude of 140 metres. When it is in operation, at any given moment there are about 7,000 litres of water in the air.

The first Jet d'Eau was installed in 1886, a little further downstream from its present location, and used as a safety valve for a hydraulic power network. In 1891, its aesthetic value was recognised and it was moved to its present location to celebrate the Federal Gymnastics Festival and the 600th anniversary of the Swiss Confederation, on which occasion it was operated for the first time. Its maximum height was about 90 metres. The present Jet d'Eau was installed in 1951 in a partially submerged pumping station to pump lake water instead of city water.

Like the Jet d'Eau, there are so many icons of modern-day Geneva, yet the classical ones persist too: chocolate, watches, clocks, white crosses, red crosses, cows, cheese..... the list is endless. 

What is for sure, though, is that this 21st-century city is as rock-solid and dependable as its history and commercial establishments. Balanced by a dose of Lake Geneva's stunning beauty, that makes it hard to beat anywhere. 

###

Pictures and words: ©Sally Hammond

Video: ©Gordon Hammond