This Mediterranean island was fit for a future queen ~ 

~ but also has a history of its own myths and secrets

This puzzling mosaic of boats and buildings crammed in one small harbour, basically sums up Malta.

Its mystery and history beckoned us, making us keen to figure it out for ourselves.

We discovered quirky things...

...tasty morsels...

- quaint and colourful places - 

- and Malta's secret for survival. 

Please join us and discover all of these (and much more)...

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A few months ago, on an independent visit, we explored Malta in the way we like best.

In just a few days we wandered off the beaten track...

sniffing out the heart and soul of the place...

chatting to local people (yes, most Maltese speak English)...

and taking the bus.

As the tenth-smallest country in the world, the strategically based Republic of Malta certainly offers plenty of contrasts.

First settled by Neolithic farmers in 5900 BC, over the centuries many other races, including Phoenicians, Romans and Greeks, also had an interest in this tiny speck on the ocean.

That's about enough for now! History lesson over. 

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Let's start at our beginning...

Marsaskala

Rather than staying in busy Valletta, the capital, we chose a hotel about half an hour by bus from the centre of the city. No, we did not hire a car. Malta's population is over half a million, and roads are busy.

Actually it was this view on booking.com that made us search no longer.

Our choice turned out to be ideal, with stunning views and a tiny balcony overlooking the bay, outside our comfortable room. With plenty of dining spots nearby, we were also well away from noisy city traffic.

Marsaskala Bay is the long inlet, above, on the eastern side of Malta.

Marsaskala Bay is as popular with boat owners as it is with tourists...

...or locals.

Centre-stage is the local parish church...

...and the bay is surrounded by promenades, ideal for a gentle after-dinner stroll.

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A touch of kindness

Street-side, directly below our hotel room, we discovered this cafe with just what we needed: superb flat-white coffees, snacks and meals. It was so good, in fact, that it became our daily breakfast spot.

It also has a very inspiring story.

The family who own the cafe, shared with us how a few years ago, their son nearly died and, and in gratitude for his life being saved by the local doctors, they began this humanitarian work, Pay it Forward.

Read more about it HERE...

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Time to visit the capital: Valletta

Although Valletta is the capital of Malta, we were surprised to discover that the entire island is considered 'an urban region' or a 'city-state'.

Our bus from Marsaskala terminated at the entrance to the city, near the magnificent Tritons' Fountain. It has now been included on the National Inventory of the Cultural Property of the Maltese Islands.

Was its beauty an insight of what we could expect to see?

Valletta's main street is, in reality, a long shopping mall featuring international brands, and with many signs in English, underlining its recent history. Whatever you call it, we saw it as a modern cosmopolitan city blending with history.

As you can see, Valletta is also not at all shy about glamping things up. Admittedly, this shot was taken only a couple of days before the annual White Night Festival (Notte Bianca) during which almost the entire population stays awake celebrating.

There is a serious side to Valletta as well.

It did not take long for us to realise that Malta's long history has compressed many eras into this small space.

The Parliament of Malta is one of the first buildings you see on entering the city. Its beautiful architecture is instantly worth a photograph.

One way to see more that day, would have been to hop on one of these small trains, but - stay tuned - that was for another day!

The residents of various nationalities over the centuries have left their architectural stamp on many of Valletta's buildings.

However, the local food is always a must-taste - and most importantly, pastizzi, Malta's favourite pastry snacks.

Here's a tip! Wear good walking shoes when exploring Valletta. Some of the side streets head straight down towards the waterfront, far below. I sat here, at the top end, to enjoy a coffee, but needed to brace against the steepness of this laneway.

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Heritage insights

Princess Elizabeth lived with her husband in Malta for some time before she returned to Britain and later became Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. She has been quoted as saying that their time in Malta was one of the happiest times of her life.

The link between Britain and Malta has remained strong. Although though the country became independent in 1964, it was not until Freedom Day in 1974 that it declared itself a neutral and unaligned state. 

Even some British memorabilia have been retained as a confusing second-glance trick on visitors.

The letterboxes are in use, but unfortunately you can't make a call from the red phone booths. 

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Malta's military history

As part of the British Empire, Malta was once an important outpost during WWI and WWII. 

During the First World War, Malta became known as the Nurse of the Mediterranean, due to the large number of wounded soldiers who were accommodated. In the Second World War (during what was termed the 'second siege of Malta') although bombarded by Italy and Germany, the country was central for Intelligence work and as a launchpad to divert enemy fire.

The best place to get an idea of how well the city was fortified, go to the shady and lovely Upper Barrakka Gardens, which are, usefully, also very close to the bus station.

When we visited, one of the information staff who was patrolling the gardens, gave us a good tip. He had been in the army during the time when Princess Elizabeth had lived in Malta, and he was happy to chat and also tip us off that the 4pm cannon was due to be fired in a few minutes.

We took up our positions, shutter-fingers at the ready - and there it is!

Of course, today things in Valletta are quiet, and now the waterfront is generally filled with cruise ships.

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The things they left behind

Of course, any country with such a colourful history has mementoes, and we strained our necks looking upwards at all sorts of exquisite architectural decorations or memorials to historical events.

In many places the EU flag flies with the Maltese one. Malta joined the European Union in 2004.

Jean 'Parisot' de la Valette, was a French nobleman and 49th Grand Master of the Order of Malta, from 1557 until his death in 1568. His leadership was pivotal to ceasing the Great Siege of Malta. This great man merits his place in the sun as he stands in a piazza that bears his name, near to the Barrakka Gardens.

The Christian church, especially Roman Catholicism, has an important place in Malta with many statues in honour of various saints and religious people. This one features the saint's dog as well.

Always look up as you walk the streets of Valletta, or rest in a piazza.

Maltese balconies are diverse, reflecting eras of the many nationalities that, at one time or another have settled here. In such a tightly packed city, the opportunity to have a tiny spot with open air is always a delight.

Time to finish a busy day and return to our bayside accommodation.

PS: Are you wondering why I have said so much about the local transport? The locals are very proud of the city's clean, modern - and frequent - buses. Visitors can buy a ticket for two Euros, daytime, or three Euros, nighttime. These are valid for two hours and include transfers, meaning that you can get on and off as much as you like during that time.

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Vittoriosa

Another day, using the bus again, we head for Vittoriosa, opposite Valetta, across the Grand Harbour. There is a statue of Queen Victoria outside the National Library in Valetta but, that said, the area of Vittoriosa has nothing to do with her. It means 'victorious city' and is also called Birgu.

Here, colourful homes seem to brace each other on these steep roads and laneways.

Finally we made it down - no tumbles, thankfully - and arrived at the waterfront, welcomed by the traditional eight-pointed Maltese Cross.

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Taking a tour

This little white train turned up just when we needed to take a break without missing anything.

It was the ideal way to continue sightseeing, in rattle-rattle comfort.

The train took us through city spots and also some of the surrounding rural areas, and guess what we found? Hedges of huge prickly pear cacti.

Nothing goes to waste in Mediterranean countries, and I had spotted this sign in the main street of Valletta, the day before. Once you are brave enough to get past the hair-fine spines on the prickly pear fruit, the ruby red watermelon-like flesh offers a delicious (and antioxidant) snack.

Another thing not left to waste, are the many rocks that fill the land. Drystone fences like this are the ideal solution.

Back to the waterfront, and defences like these across the bay, are so commonplace, yet they explain how this tiny island has survived.

Believe it or not, this is a street sign. Maltese and English intersperse many signs, but here the word 'triq' simply means 'street', making this Pawlu Boffa Street, named for a local Prime Minister.

Red is important in Malta. It appears on both the national flag as well as the civil ensign with the white Maltese Cross. It pops up on many buildings too in this colourful nation.

Do you sense a little Venetian here? Not surprising, really, when you think about it. Italy is very close to Malta, and merchants have plied these waters for millennia.

And then there are the constant emblems of war and protection, this time outside the Malta Maritime Museum.

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Return to Valletta

Finally, having tasted one of the Three Cities, and with a storm coming...

...we head for the ferry that will take us back to Valletta - and also keep us dry as we do so.

It's only a short ride, but we still manage to see yet another part of the Three Cities.

And of course we see even more of those solid fortifications that have protected the Maltese for so long.

The city comes into sight, but we have been told a secret.

We will not have to walk up the steep hillside to reach the Upper Barrakka Gardens. Keep your eye on the strange-looking creation at the top-left of the picture.

Here it is, close to where the ferry ties up! The 58-metre aluminium mesh Barrakka Tower, opened in 2012, is located within the ditch of Valetta's fortifications. Reaching the top, at a cost of Euro 1, return, is now so easy and affordable. We arrived in 23 seconds, and paid nothing as we had 3 Cities Ferry tickets.

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Storybook Mdina

Another day, another direction, this time in the luxury of a local taxi.

If your tongue can't quite get the name - it is pronounced 'Im-DEEN-a'.

Yes, it is quaint. Yes, it is a 'tourist town', but there is a magic to it as well.

If you want history, this is the place. 

Originally dubbed 'the silent city', when many residents moved after it was no longer the capital, things have got a lot busier since then!

Mdina is the ideal location for visitors to spend a day and enjoy a compact version of Maltese life. It's easily accessed by bus - 30 minutes from the Valletta bus station - but we took a more direct route, by taxi from our accommodation.

Mediterranean countries do 'colour' very well.

With an average 300 hours of sunshine each month in summer, Malta seems to have almost endless sunshine -great for flowering plants. Most homes are also brightly painted as well, making it a photographer's delight as well.

But the colour is not all happening outside. We peeped into this beautiful church in Mdina - Church of the Annunciation of Our Lady - and were awestruck by its beauty.

Religion is important too, and how fairytale can a wedding get, if you say your vows in Mdina?

There are those balconies again. While they still provide shelter from the sun and allow fresh air to inside rooms, many of these date back to medieval times.

And if you need some relaxation time, a comfy seat, and some entertainment, those smart people of Mdina have that covered too. What's more these titles fit the environment. The Mdina Experience - an Audiovisual Spectacular - takes audiences back through Mdina's rich history.

Then there's tourist-bait.  Great for photos...

....activities, horse-drawn carriages or, if that isn't your thing...

...a chance to walk back through history...

...dine in sunshine and...

...enjoy endless views across the plains.

Then, of course, there are souvenirs...

...and, just for good measure, more history.

This interesting character, standing outside the National Museum of Natural History, represents the people - not necessarily Maltese people - who became knights, dressed as Grand Masters, during the country's Great Siege. 

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Finally - our last glimpses of Marsaskala...

It was so difficult to leave this lovely part of Malta.

As a final piece of exploration, on our last morning, we walk east from our hotel, along 'our' side of the harbour and discover these salt pans, long used commercially to harvest salt. Now that they are no longer are a source of salt, but we could see how they are still popular as bathing spots.

We also walk the promenade from our hotel to the church which dominates the harbour.

Then, finally, regrettably, it is time to say goodbye, or addiju, as they say in Maltese.

The ancient Greeks called this island a name that translated as 'honey sweet', and it's reflected in Malta's name. This suits us too, as we remember our short (but very sweet) visit!

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Our time on Malta is over. Our flight is booked to Rome, then a connection with Cagliari in Sardinia. What we did not then know, was that another 'adventure' was waiting for us.

Stay tuned for that one!!

Sally & Gordon Hammond travel independently. All opinions are their own and not for profit.

Words and pictures ©Sally Hammond

Video ©Gordon Hammond

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