An ancient city - an everlasting enigma

~~~

Don't even ask what Athen's name means...

It's quirky, and no one is too sure, but it seems the goddess Athena took the name of the city as her own.

The derivation is buried in myth and etymology...like so many more surprising secrets. 

Half the world has heard of the Parthenon and, on the day we visited, most of them seemed to be here!

(By the way, is it the Acropolis or Parthenon - or both?) Read on.

Athens is also a city of churches...

...and ruins...

...but the modern-exalts-ancient souvenir trade is also well-represented.

Good news: you won't go hungry, as there are plenty of footpath food vendors...

...alleyway cafes and endless galleries of 'street art'...

...and, of course, plenty of outdoor spaces to relax or exercise. In fact, pack your walking shoes, because 'old Athens' is much easier to explore on foot.

Of course, there is tourist transport...

...and a plenty of local buses and subways.

~~~

Getting to know Athens

Athens, sometimes nicknamed 'the glorious city' has, over the centuries, gathered all the necessary tricks for beckoning, welcoming, entertaining and tantalising its visitors. 

Decades ago our family made an overnight stopover here. The next morning we made sure that we visited the Parthenon (interestingly, almost empty the day we went) and spent the rest of the time tracking down a suitcase that hadn't arrived on our flight! Sound familiar?

Now, finally, we have returned - older, more travel-wise...

...and eager to see what we had missed the first time around - which was almost everything, we soon discovered!

Syntagma Square is the focal point for many visitors to this city. A busy, dazziling space, it is like London's Trafalgar Square, Rome's Trevi Fountain, or New York's Times Square. It's the 'meet-you-there' of Athens.

While that sounds like a plan, it can be more difficult than you think, as this place gets very busy during peak seasons. We'd arrived in mid-September, when crowds were beginning to thin so, luckily, I was easily able to catch sight of my husband, Gordon, centre-front with his beloved travel-partner - his tripod.

What we did not expect to find beside the square, was a taste of Britain (and France) - the elegant Hotel Grande Bretagne.

Originally built as a private residence in 1842, it was renovated completely in 2003 and now boasts the only Royal Suite in Athens. 

If the name seems confusing, it's important to know that there has been a connection between Greece and France since the pre-Roman time of the Gauls, and the British have been staunch allies more recently.

With permission from the concierge, I tiptoed to the restaurant entrance, and took a discreet shot. This was an angle of Greece I had not expected to see.

And, no, this was not where we stayed during our visit!

Our well-appointed Booking.com apartment, Syntagma Square Athenian Apartments, was only a short walk away in Voulis Street.

~~~

Parliamentary business

Back outside, the temperature had risen markedly by noon. In the blinding sunshine we noticed a crowd gathering in front of the Hellenic Parliament building. You've already seen it (above, near Syntagma Square).

The site of the first Greek palace, after disastrous fires, it was reopened as the Parliament in 1934.

We were on time to see two Evzones, elite light-infantry soldiers, members of the Presidential Guard, presenting the hourly event.

The ritual was energetic and meticulously choreographed, but all I could  think of was how very hot and uncomfortable these men must be, marching in the heat, wearing woollen stockings and layers of uniform!

~~~

Happy Train time

If you recognise the Hotel Grand Bretagne (above) then you will realise that here, we are across the road from the square. Jet-lag was beginning to kick in, so what better way to see more of the city than enjoying a forty-minute 'train' trip for five euros each. 

It's obvious that the founders of this city were keen on keeping important buildings aloof and safely inaccessible. On the mountain-top in the far distance is the Holy Church of Saint George of Lycabettus.

While the church only dates back to 1870, the panoramic views alone, make it worth a visit.

Our little 'train trip' was surprisingly good value, filling us in on much of the old city. We trundled past several museums, as well as the Panathenaic Stadium, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the Lantern of Diogenes, and much more. It also gave a chance to observe the regular daily lives of the locals - whether it was hurrying to appointments, or shopping and relaxing in cafes and restaurants.

~~~

Tummy rumbles

Like many cities, the Athenians quickly realised that not all visitors want to sit in a cafe or restaurant when they could be out and about, exploring. At times we felt as if we were in Rome...

...other times, the Middle East - or a dozen other countries. Wherever we were there was always a quick snack not far away.

Dinner was a different matter. This was the time to settle down and enjoy a meal at a local restaurant.

The Greco's Project was chosen purely because of the friendly welcome from the front person outside, on the footpath, and my own sixth-sense for a good restaurant. It was an excellent call, and turned out to be one of those places that you dream about after you return home.

A simple meal, eaten outside, it was just what we needed after a busy sight-seeing day, sharing sesame honey feta in fillo, oven-baked octopus with zucchini and fish roe, and eggs in baked potatoes. The owner who had introduced himself while we were dining, had observed our interest and obvious delight, and generously offered us complimentary halva and small glasses of ouzo to finish our meal.

Kali honepsi (καλή χώνεψη): Greek for “good digestion".

~~~

Street sightings

Every salesman needs a few moments of quiet-time.

While mostly, the shopping areas were busy, there was a sense of relaxation in the company of friends too.

Ermou Street is one of the more popular pedestrian thoroughfares, and as it connected with Voulis Street where we were staying, we got to know it well. Others choose it because it is the most direct route on foot between Syntagma Square and Monastiraki Square.

We chose it because of its vibe and (for me, at least) the wide variety of clothing outlets and quirky shops.

~~~

Faith and fantasy

Athens is a city of churches and other places of worship, extending from the massive Acropolis to tiny churches, almost at every turn.

Midway down Ermou Street, creating its own roundabout, is Kapnikarea, one of the oldest churches in Athens.

Simplicity itself from the outside, but inside are some fascinating and beautiful artworks.

The neo-classical Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens dominates the square. Marble from 72 demolished churches was used for its walls, and the entrance is offset by a glowing golden mural.

Next door, overshadowed by the cathedral, this tiny 12th-century church was built using material from ancient pagan temples.

In this city, modernity is never far from history. See others...

~~~

Drum roll! - Athens' Star attraction

Warning - no tickets ahead. 

Eager to finally see this fascinating place again, the next day we followed the crowd heading upwards. But when we reached the Ticket Office, we learned that we should have bought tickets from the booth far below. Obviously the others smugly knew this, or they had booked online.

I waited in the shade, and Gordon finally reappeared with tickets - but then found they were instead for the Agora, in another part of the city.

By now it was noon, mid-September, and the temperature was climbing. What to do?

 The view, we decided, is probably just as good from a distance - and definitely cheaper!

We did learn however that the Acropolis is the World Heritage-listed complex of buildings on the rocky hilltop; and that the Parthenon is the remains of the fifth-century BC former temple.

In many ways, looking the other way is often a smart move, as you see things you might otherwise have missed. Here at the edge of the cliff we find the entire city of Athens at our feet.

Just below, the Ancient Agora of Athens looks so close that it seems we could find a track down to it, but changed our minds as it looked too hazardous.

Stop press! We later discovered that there is a recently-added elevator to the top.

That decided, a half hour taxi ride, costing 20 euros, seemed to be the only answer. 

Above is the Stoa of Attallos and well worth visiting. What was once a second-century BC shopping centre, has now been reconstructed for use as the Museum of The Ancient Agora.

From the garden of the Agora, the Acropolis looks so close, but that cliff seems impregnable.

Desperate for a cool drink, we crossed the road and were suddenly flung back into 21st-century cafes, train-lines - and graffiti.

Nearby, Monastiraki Square in the centre of 'old' Athens, propelled us into the Ottoman era.

A popular gathering place, full of street sellers and small shops, it is overlooked by the omnipresent Acropolis.

Because of the web of laneways, we found ourselves yet-again at this little church  in Ermou Street that was named for the god, Hermes.

I must admit that some of my surprise was due to an almost total lack of a sense of direction (not a good thing for a travel writer!

~~~

Modern Athens - yes, it exists

Let's make a time adjustment. Just in case I have led you into believing that Athens is set in amber, an interesting souvenir to put on a shelf and admire, you need to know that this city has plenty of energy and is as up-to-the-minute as any major city worldwide. Maybe more so.

Graffiti, often very clever and attractive... 

 ...pops up everywhere.

Nor will you need to dine only Greek dishes in Athens. Like any other modern capital, you can eat your way around the world within a few blocks.

Coffee-lovers are not forgotten, either. Of course Greece has a proud coffee heritage - traditional tiny cups holding a tablespoon or so of syrupy ink-black coffee. 

However as an Aussie 'flat-white-please' fan, it is wonderful to come across a place that, firstly, understands 'flat white' - and then makes it perfectly.

Welcome to Seventeen Bagel and Coffee, which unfortunately we only discovered on our last day in the city.

On our next visit, this will be our first top. Promise!

In addition to that stellar coffee, they provided a perfect breakfast - overnight oats, soaked for hours until creamy, then topped with nuts and freshly cut fruit.

~~~

Love local knowledge

What a thrill it when someone gives you a tipoff?  Especially if they are locals, with no trickery in mind, or hidden motives.

'Best in the city' - this restaurant - we were told by an old man we had met, who was sitting beside his dog, outside a pub on our final morning in Athens. We love chatting to people, and this man was good value.

He gave us the directions to Eugenia Restaurant established in 1989, and run by an energetic woman and her family. This is their super-simple, fresh and tasty salad. On the left, you can just see a corner of Greece's favourite bread, made from barley rusks. If we hadn't been so hungry I would have placed it better for the picture! Dakos (above) is a traditional and simple Greek salad found throughout the country.

Our other choice was roasted calamari - again! We had picked over this a little before I thought to snap it, but it was SO good - and, by mid-afternoon we were SO HUNGRY - that we dived right in.

~~~

Laneways and memories

After a day or so, we began to think of the Parthenon as the 'Where's Wally' of Athens. This famous clifftop building pops up unexpectedly in so many photos of other places, haunting us, it seems, as we move around the city. 

Meanwhile, after walking a few more blocks we reach what seems to be, Tourist Central. It's not called that, of course, but over one long street and a few side ones we fill up our bags with memorabilia and gift items. 

These are self-explanatory, so I'll leave you to have fun, zooming-in on the pictures so that you can window-shop to your heart's content.

~~~

A walk in the park

You'd never think it, but a very short distance to the south of Syntagma Square, a small gate leads away from the busy main road, choked with cars and buses...

...and within moments delivers us to the quietude of the city's historic 15.5 hectare National Garden. As we attempted to follow the winding paths,  trying to make sense of the signposts, we finally gave in and just wandered, soaking up the shady coolness.

These ducks look as though they are dining on gold dust...and, to them, it probably tasted just as good.

Finally, after one last long look at the Parthenon, seen from a special lookout on the seventh floor of the Electra Athens Hotel.

For us it was the ideal finale of a city that has staged some of the biggest (and best) events during a mind-blowing 25 centuries. 

After a meagre three days here (yes, I know, some people never learn!) we left, realising that yet again we had barely shaken hands with this immortal city - and agreeing that we still need to plan another, more leisurely, visit, soon. 

Time for us to pack our bags in readiness for our morning trip onwards*.

Fingers crossed - we WILL return!

~~~

*If you want to know where we went next, it is already on our website at Window on the Cyclades.

Sally & Gordon Hammond travel independently. All opinions are their own.

Words and pictures ©Sally Hammond

Video and music ©Gordon Hammond