Sunshine & superb food - but sadness, too - on Crete

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When travelling, we have a motto: "Why miss anything?"

So, when we realised that Crete was just a 2.5 hour trip by Seajets from Santorini, where we had just spent a few days, how could we resist?

What's more I had some very personal family history to explore on Greece's largest island.

We had been warned that, in this part of the Mediterranean, heavy seas and winds could sometimes interfere and  cause cancellations, but not that day. Soon, we were off the ferry and in a taxi to Hotel Rea, small yet very comfortable, and just a couple of blocks from the waterfront of Heraklion.

Come with us as we wander down the main thoroughfare of Heraklion (also known as Iraklion), Crete's largest city, and fourth largest in Greece. 

Every city has a 'meet you at the fountain' point of reference, and this one is Heraklion's. Popular with pigeons as well as people, it is named after Morosini, its 17th-century Venetian creator. Fortunately this fountain survived a massive earthquake in 1856 that virtually demolished all the houses in the city.

The area around this intersection is the popular Lion's Square and, as it was only a five minute walk from our hotel, it became our special breakfast spot.

The cafes surrounding the fountain do good business too, so a coffee-while-you-relax is always available.

It was lucky, too, that we had landed in this bustling epicentre of town, so of course there was only one thing to do (after coffee and breakfast - more of that later) and that was to join the stream of people strolling down the thoroughfare leading towards the Venetian Port. 

There is food everywhere, and it seems that most European countries love this fragrant sweet bread-snack (above). We have sampled these cylindrical part-doughnuts in so many countries, and they are always delicious. Here, because of their shape, they are sold under the name of Chimney Cake.

And then there are the quirky things that surprise and confuse...

... like this autographed 'Happy Story' pasted to a laneway wall. 

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Breakfast in Heraklion

Day One and we were soon seduced by the aromas of coffee and freshly-baked pastries, just minutes from our hotel, at the upper end of the pedestrian walkway.

We decided to try Crumb, packed full, but with one table free, and that was all we needed.

Despite the fact there were many other cafes within metres, we loved this super-healthy place so much that we breakfasted here every morning...

... although we were very tempted by this sourdough bakery almost next door.

But wait, there's more. Keep reading and also find our dining secrets for later in the day.

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Wandering and learning

It didn't take long to realise that Heraklion's airport is close (like really close) to the city centre. As we discovered the day we left, it was only about a ten-minute taxi ride from our hotel.

However, from our breakfast spot, we heard the planes well before they appeared every few minutes, still climbing, right over the main street.

It was also apparent that cruise ships frequently visit this city, offloading scores of passengers and tour guides onto this central walkway. 

Souvenirs?

Of course there is shop after shop, but the Cretans seem to have plenty of style and taste. Forget plastic and papery goods that will self-destroy even before you get home - this shop has everything from bowls to bangles, and a wealth of ornaments, made from good local olive wood.

If masses of people are not your thing - no problem. Step off the main drag and turn into almost any small alley or laneway and you will find yourself in 'real' Heraklion. Here there are ancient churches with outdoor space for pigeons to peck, great places for children to run, and an opportunity for parents to relax.

One of the things we liked most was the creativity of the city. Who would have thought to decorate this building  with rainbow colours, a children's theme making a delightful bright patch in a city that also has its fair share of black, sidewalk graffiti.

These are the places where the real heart is exposed, though, and we peeped beyond the tourist-trap facade into a city that has suffered and recovered, yet still retains its own identity.

These death notices are found throughout many Eastern European countries, and while we cannot read Greek, we sensed the pride mixed with sorrow of the families of these people.

As with many countries which have faced and survived a war, life here often seems even more precious.

READ ON... and discover later our own personal and poignant reason for visiting Crete.

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Take us to the waterfront

Heraklion is very much a walking city and a couple of blocks from the main shopping mall, at the Venetian Port, we found this ruin. Presently described as an archeological dig, it is unearthing the history of the 12th-century Cistercian monastery of Saint Peter of Dominicans, built in the early years of Venetian rule.

Elsewhere, worth seeing is the Heraklion Archaeology Museum, one of the most important museums of Europe while, closer to the waterfront is the Historical Museum of Crete

Leaving the ancient buildings, we cross a busy road, and discover fresh seafood, caught just hours ago in sparkling Aegean waters.

Can't you almost smell these? If shopping, arrive early, as they sell out fast.

The Greek's love of seafood means that you will not be disappointed at dinnertime.

The Venetian Port, built over a millenthernium ago, has survived earthquakes and the destruction of Crete.

Why are there dolphins at the waterfront? This statue was erected in 2008 to raise awareness of marine life protection. 

Every type of craft can be found here: seafaring fishing boats, yachts for pleasure, and around the corner the ferry ports and large cruise ships.

Before you take the long walk up to the fortress, snacks like this grilled corn will give you energy...

...and these mementoes, looking suitably Greek....

...are worth taking home as gifts or keepsakes.

At the waterfront, the Greek flag flies proudly over Koules Fortress (or Rocca a Mare Fortress).

Originally fortified by the Byzantines in the ninth or tenth century, the fortress was rebuilt in the early 16th century by Venetians, using local stone.  

A walk along the breakwater (or mole) allows glimpses of the modern world...

...but look the other way and you will see remnants of another, much earlier, age.

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Inside the fortress

Inside the sea-fortress, there is a museum, and these ancient cannonballs set the scene for defence in the past centuries.

And these amphorae, older still. have been retrieved from the depths of the nearby waters.

Climb higher within the fortress, outdoors again, and there are magnificent views of the surrounding bay.

As we head back from the fortress, peepholes on the walkway allow glimpses of the mountains to the west where we are headed in a day or so.

Finally, after all that energising sea air, we found a seat and ordered a 'snack' (I called it the world's largest waffle!) at the Marina Cafe overlooking the harbour.

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Talking of food...

Although we had found our favourite breakfast spot, we soon needed to ask locals for hints about dinner. This one was recommended as an evening bar venue.

Streetside dining was ideal for lunches, or balmy evenings...

...but we fell for this place on Day One. Arismari and Varsamo, translating as Rosemary and Spearmint, has a large indoor-outdoor area, with a local feel to it. The food is well-priced and authentic, and you really must try the cheese-filled pie drizzled with honey, called sfakiani pita. 

Delicious!

One evening, after negotiating an endless web of narrow streets we discovered Hagiati and dined at this table.

Determined to stay with authentic homespun food, we ordered these huge fresh-caught prawns...

... followed by loukamade (honey-drenched mini-doughnuts) made on the premises by the owner's mother.

The walls provided reading matter between courses - with some useful language info as well.

Offbeat places, where people share their food history, and take care with every dish: that's what we love most when travelling.

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Rethymno - memories and tears

Regardless of the wonderful sights in Heraklion, and its great food, this trip was more than just another tick to put on our world map proving 'yes, we have been there too!'.

The venture planned for our second-last day on Crete was one I had especially been waiting for. This place perhaps even decided whether I might have ever existed! Read on...

Crete has had a long history of invasions and control by other countries. Since Neolithic times, this island has experienced settlement by the Minoans, Romans, Arab and Byzantine rule, Venetian then Turkish occupation, until finally it became autonomous in 1898. That lasted until the German occupation during World War 2.

On the sunny day that we hop on a local bus and head for Rethymno, a couple of hours away to the west on the northern coast, all is calm. Crete is again doing what it does best - welcoming visitors.

Although this part of our trip is more about personal memories, we have been fascinated by news that the southern side is becoming extremely popular for its resort hotels and water sports. Maybe next time?

However, today, we have other plans, dating from one of the darkest times in Crete's recent history.

While now tour buses take visitors to see the local sights...

...showing them the bay, gleaming churches, panoramas and more..

...the one place I most wished to see was this one, which we found, a hundred metres or so from the bay.

Set in quiet gardens, near to the bay where the insurnce began, there are memorials to those who risked their lives (as well as the many who died) attempting to save this city and protect its brave and desperate people.

In May 1941, World War 2 was raging throughout Europe, as German troops by sea and air attempted to also capture islands in the Mediterranean. 

Crete was especially on the agenda as Germany believed that it would make a useful southern base for the future.

The local Cretan people are strong, but nothing could help them prevail during the famous Battle of Crete lasting ten days, from May 20-29, 1941. The battle went down as 'one of the strangest and most glorious battles', in which the local inhabitants displayed incredible heroism'.

Learn more...

My father Cyril Howard Griffiths McGregor (above) was part of Australia's 2/7th Field Ambulance which had been diverted to Crete to assist in its defence. They were not alone. Troops from New Zealand, Greece and other Allied Forces converged here in an attempt to protect the island.

As we all know, despite the enormous effort and bravery of the Allies, the attack by German paratroopers and ships was too strong for the local people, and other forces, to prevail against them.

My father was captured, along with around 12,000 other Commonwealth soldiers, and taken away to Athens, then on to a Prisoner of War camp first in Munich, and later, in what is now Poland, remaining there until release in March 1945.

Months later, he returned to Australia and later married my mother.

Throughout these memorial gardens are plaques and information boards that shed light on the terrible losses and incredible bravery of the local people and those who attempted to liberate them.

Nowadays, these gardens are places of peace, but of course visitors, especially those like me with a close history to this place, rarely leave without shedding tears, both for the local people who struggled and lost so much - and the sheer stupidity of war. 

Finally, leaving the gardens on the edge of the bay, we are drawn at first to this neat and beautiful church, the Chapel of Saint Nicholas, built in the Romanesque style.

We had been so immersed in the memorial that we had not realised until then it was already mid-afternoon and we were really hungry. 

Fortunately Tavern Zampia, across the road, was the perfect place to relax and come to terms with all that we had seen and heard.

Best of all they served the most tender and tasty calamari that I have ever eaten!

Finally, this bay, once filled with the sounds of battle is silent now, quietly returned to peace, despite the scars that remain.

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Heraklion's input

On return to Heraklion, we soon discovered that wartime memories were not yet over. When we mentioned to a taxi driver why we had visited Rethymno, he directed us to Heraklion's epitaph.

Another park, and more gardens, and the British, Australian and New Zealand flags once again flying proudly in the warm breeze.

It was touching to read the full story of those fighting for freedom, and it is humbling to think of the bravery exhibited by so many, and most of all the Cretan people themselves.

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Knossos - Crete's priceless cultural treasure

On our final day, realising that we had left the best (or at least the most well-known and awesome attraction) until last, we arrived at the north-entrance of the Palace of Knossos (above) and were immediately drawn into the labyrinth of a distant age.

Just six kilometres south-east of Heraklion, we find ourselves stepping back into the Minoan period of over five thousand years ago.

Considering the length of time and the number of conflicts from invaders that this island has survived, it seems hardly possible that anything of this nature could have remained, then restored to this standard.

Yet, here it is, the Archaeological Site of Knossos (to use its full title) now welcomes many thousands of visitors annually. Top number of visitors on one day? We are told, that it was eight thousand sightseers!

Most people come primarily to see the works of art...

...or archaeological items, won back from the sands of time. 

Set amongst hills and valleys, south-west of the Hereklion's city centre, and backdropped by olive groves and vineyards, punctuated by slim cypress trees, the people who built Knossos chose the ideal front-row position.

Within the buildings, copies of ancient artwork and frescoes bring these palaces to life.

Little wonder that they were built to withstand the elements as well as invaders, because Knossos was regarded as the seat of the legendary King Minos, son of Europa and Zeus.

The seafaring locals of Crete have regarded the ocean as rich in the legends that surround this island

Even this island, Dia (above), which resembles a lizard, has meaning to Crete's citizens. As the legend goes, Greek mythology tells of a giant lizard that tried to destroy the island of Crete. However, Zeus turned it into stone with a thunderbolt, thus creating the island which still remains uninhabited.

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Finally our few days on Crete are over. It is time to leave.

If you think that Mediterranean islands are like beads on a string - visit one, then head for the next one along - think again. En the route to our next island visit, we have to fly back to Athens, then transfer and fly on to our next destination of Malta.

Although that seemed time-wasting enough, at this point we did not yet know that our 'transfer flight' to Malta was going to be delayed five hours (!) and we would not arrive on Malta until 3am!

It was difficult to leave the brave island of Crete. It has suffered so much, yet has still returned in even greater strength and beauty.

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Goodbye, Crete. 

Fingers crossed that we shall meet again someday!

Pictures and words: Sally Hammond

Video: Gordon Hammond

Sally & Gordon Hammond travelled independently on Crete.

 All opinions are their own.