The Royal Scotsman.

Even the name has a certain ring to it. Visions of lairds and kilted chieftains, lofty banqueting halls, castles dissolving in mists appear, unsummoned, just by saying it. When I read the itinerary - a leisurely four-night chug-a-lug though the highlands of Scotland - shaggy sheep and shaggier cattle appear in my mental viewfinder. And pine forests and luminous lochs, inevitable drizzle, then rainbows.

As it happens, we encounter all this, and more.

But first some background. Despite its heritage appearance, this turn-of-the-century Orient Express train is more 21st-century than nineteenth. Although the ten Pullman carriages have seen some earlier action, the refurbishment happened only around twenty years ago when they were totally transformed. Each cabin was equipped with private facilities, electric heating was installed throughout, and the Observation and Dining Cars were redecorated with rich wood panelling, etched mirrors, candelabra and plush furnishings. To get the idea, think wealthy retro-glamour.

On our tour, the Royal Scotsman clicketty-clacks its way north through Dundee and Keith to Inverness, then across the country to the Kyle of Lochalsh, close to Skye. It then doubles back, repeating one of the most scenic loch-side stretches, taking a parallel route back to Edinburgh. While on the move, an iron-railed platform at the rear of the train is the perfect place to stand and watch the track unfurling behind us. Each night we 'stable' at some quiet siding to allow us to sleep undisturbed. 

Service matches style throughout. The staff are formal yet friendly, trained to anticipate our every need (hang your coat, sir? another whisky?) and they could transfer effortlessly to any five-star establishment around the world. But most choose to stay on for a few seasons at this 'luxe hotel on wheels.

Maybe it's the relatively low guest rate that lures them - the train takes just 32 passengers - or perhaps it's the amazing scenery swishing by, although the staff miss the off-train excursions which we enjoy.

One day we visit ancient Ballindalloch Castle, interestingly the place where Aberdeen Angus cattle were first bred, and where the laird (a most gracious lady) showed us around. Another evening we visit mysterious Eilean Donan, just across the water from Skye, and hold our breath in the lofty main hall as we listen to tales of its tumultuous history. Then there is a tour of Scone Palace, visits to two whisky distilleries (at one, the opportunity for some highland dancing practice - tricky after a dram or two!) and a ramble around a former hunting lodge. One morning we breakfast while skirting Loch Carron, passing the whitewashed houses of tiny Plockton, the setting for TVs Hamish Macbeth.

My personal guess is that the low turnover of staff (and, indeed, repeat bookings by guests) is due to the food. Chef Iain Murray performs daily miracles in his sliver of a galley. Breakfast in the dining car delivers whisky-laced oatmeal, haddocks and eggs, while lunch and dinner at the communal table features the best of Scottish produce, meaning we feast on the freshest seafood and local beef, and even haggis for the non-squeamish, accompanied by fine wines.

Then it's fresh scones for morning tea, and highland cheeses, oatcakes and chocolates in the Observation Car after dinner. The bar is extensive (there are 32 different whiskys, no less) and tipples are all included in the fare, so we settle back grandly for the evening entertainment. One night it's a highland bard clad in full chieftain regalia, another night a Celtic fiddler delivering haunting laments and wild jigs.

Two formal dinners are scheduled during our four-night Classic tour of the highlands. The table is set for a banquet and men are encouraged to wear tuxes or kilts. Ladies know that diamonds and pearls and evening dresses are definitely not overkill in this environment.

After four nights, far too soon, it feels, we are back at Edinburgh's Waverley Station, regretfully leaving the Royal Scotsman. Now it's time for another farewell - to the staff, our newfound friends, and this grand old train.

It will be hard to get 'off the rails' and back to our real lives after playing 'royalty' for a few days.

More Royal Scotsman details: Orient-Express Trains and Cruises, Freecall 1800 000 395

photography: Gordon Hammond