Window on Ginza, Tokyo, Japan

Eating and drinking our way around this vibrant Tokyo district

Where else but Japan would your coach driver get off at your stop, stand politely - and bow to you?

That was our first inkling on this, our first visit to Tokyo, that we had arrived in a city like no other. There's a good reason for that. For centuries Japan isolated itself from the rest of the world, immersed in its ancient and most civilised culture. While now very much part of the modern world, there is still a charming difference, and one which I hope will never be lost.

Back to our arrival. Travelling on a Japan Airlines 777, we landed early, but didn't realise until then that we had coincided with a major holiday weekend. After inching through immigration, it was dark by the time we paid 6400 yen (about A$64) for two tickets to the city centre and boarded the Limousine bus. Tokyo is a very large city (pop. 13.5 million). No surprise, then, that Narita airport is also immense, and that it took over 20 minutes just to clear the airport grounds.

An hour later we reached the terminus and took a cab to our hotel in the Ginza district in Tokyo's inner south. Without suitcases it would have been an easy subway ride, or even a walk from Tokyo's central station. The hotel is discreetly located in a quiet street, and from the street entrance we took a lift to the Mercure Tokyo Ginza lobby to check in, and again encountered Japanese courtesy and efficiency.

Several bows later, with a fistful of maps, and our heads whirling with information provided by the hotel's knowledgable Front Office Manager, Javier, we headed for our room.

It's a funny thing, but anyone who has done a long haul flight (ours had been around 10 hours) knows that even though you have been snacking and eating the entire flight (see evidence above of a very tasty JAL economy meal) once you are on terra firma again, suddenly your brain announces that it's mealtime!

Javier had told us where to go for some good Japanese food and we quickly found ourselves at Ippudo. Actually we located it easily as there was a queue, and inside it was almost packed out by locals. Always an excellent sign. A good rule, if you want great food in a country, always look for where the residents go, and avoid restaurants and cafes filled with tourists.

Ippudo is a chain of ramen restaurants with branches worldwide, including Sydney, Australia. A thousand Yen equals about A$12.60, so you can see these meals are good value.

Certainly our fellow diners seemed to think so too. We chatted with a couple who knew some English as we shared the bowls of spicy beans, whole garlic cloves and other condiments that were placed on the communal tables.

There was a great vibe to the place, noisy and busy, with lots of couples, many seeming to have come straight from work. Most of the men wore dark suits, black usually, and the women (well this season's fashion, maybe) were neutrals: black, cream, white, grey. The guys behind the pass in black shirts and caps kept it all happening.

These are gyoza, often served at ramen restaurants like this as well. Second cousins to Chinese pot-stickers, they are small dumplings filled with minced pork or chicken and, in the case of the ones above, steam-fried until they have lovely golden bases.

Visiting upscale Ginza today, with its bars and cafes, designer boutiques and major department stores, it is hard to realise it was once a swamp. In 1872, it was almost totally destroyed by fire.

As we strolled back to our hotel after dinner, we passed countless small bars, izakayas, often signalled by sheets of fabric hanging at the front,restaurants and other more Western-style bars, too. Within just a few streets of our hotel there was just so much to do. Japan is a very orderly, cultured country, and while everyone was having a great time, it was just that, fun without a fuss.

In a convenience store, as we asked directions, we could have bought a hot coffee (or cold) to-go, from a vending machine.

Of course cafes, and this one is part of a clothing boutique, serve regular coffees, often with choices in English and at reasonable prices.

The coffees here, on the bottom shelf are not real though. Neither are the sample desserts. All are made of plastic. Creating plastic replicas of dishes for restaurants and cafes is a huge industry in Japan. Look at them closely. They are exquisite and quite an art-form. Learn more about them.....

Designer shopping is huge in Japan, and of course a major component of shopping in Tokyo. Fashion-conscious Japanese men and women seek out top world brands and are prepared to pay the price. Of course tourists cash in (quite literally) on the huge range that is available, and if you are a shopaholic, you may need to bring an empty extra suitcase!

A huge city such as Tokyo has to have rules, and its careful, respectful citizens seem to have little trouble in conforming to them. In case they forget - or more possibly, if visitors don't know what the rules are - the city helpfully puts reminders where they can be seen. On the footpaths. This, of course, points out that people must not smoke on streets designated this way.

There is plenty of signage for streets, but perhaps the best way is just to wander and absorb the atmosphere.

The Japanese are a nation of comic-book (anime) lovers. Just look at this selection!

Language is not a problem here, if you are hungry. Many places show their menus with pictures and prices, so it is easy to point and order.

There are also many exciting crafts and souvenirs available in Ginza, home to many galleries and the workplace of many artisans. Here a young couple are selecting the type of handmade wooden clock they would like to buy. Remember, bring that extra suitcase!

In Ginza there is always more to eat and drink. From a streetside spot sit sit and sip....

....to an intimate izakaya...

...or a serious wagyu steak establishment (just look at that marbling!)....

....and this discreet place which gives nothing away. Well, maybe it would if you could read the Japanese on the door!

So what is a shop with this name doing in Ginza? Hiroshima has recently become known for its fine produce, especially lemons, and this shop is a great favourite with locals. It sells much more than citrus fruit, though, and I wandered for some time through it, puzzling over the pictures on packets and boxes.

The Hiroshima area, south-west of Tokyo is the largest producer of lemons in Japan. Notice the lime-green skins, and juicy flesh.

What fun to have a gadget like this. In the shop, an assistant was taking tiny fish and within seconds pressing them into delicious wafers.

Of course, chocolate is a love of people in all countries, and this Ginza chocolatier is worth a visit.

Another thing which Japanese and French people share is a love of fine food, and some restaurants blend the two cuisines. The 2015 Michelin Guide to Tokyo recognises Japans affinity and expertise and lists 12 three-star restaurants, 53 two-star restaurants, 161 one-star restaurants, and 325 Bib Gourmands.

Cafe de Ginza is known for this dessert which is more commonly seen on French menus.

Throughout the city, in addition to major department stores, there are small and stylish boutiques on every street.

In a food market we discover flowers. Any guesses what these are for?

And, yes, if your ability to speak Japanese is still evolving, there are many people who can speak English, and are happy to try to help you.

Budget shoppers are not forgotten and this large centre, near to the Ginza subway station, has something for everyone.

Downstairs, there is a tempura restaurant, compact and busy. It was noisy, with the busy chefs talking back and forth. Condiments were lined up in front of us on the counter.

Here, diners sit in a row, watching the cooks just a metre or so away preparing the dishes. Many restaurants offer a 'set' in which your meal arrives on a tray holding salad or vegetables, main course, soup and dessert. It's a sensible, affordable way to dine, and our meals turned out to be huge and very good.

Interestingly, there are aspects of Japanese and French cultures that are similar. Both admire style and restraint in behaviour and fashion, and they may appear formal to other nations, as they also prefer to speak softly and behave in a respectful manner.

French fashion and products are especially liked in Japan, where appearance matters, so it was no surprise to come across this major French department store occupying a block in the Ginza district.

The younger people in Japan are also fond of following worldwide fads and fashions, and this was a big day for them, as a new Moncler flagship store opened just across Marronnier Street from this vehicle which had been decorated to match the brand and its logo.

Mother and daughter shopping in Ginza. Maybe they are checking what they want to buy - maybe not.

Known and esteemed for its top-quality jewellery, watches and accessories ever since it was founded in Paris in 1874, Cartier fits right in to the tastes of Ginza's wealthiest and most discerning shoppers.

Not far away, the flagship De Beers building has added its sinuous outline to the cityscape, an architectural sculpture of steel and glass.

Our time in Ginza was short, just two nights and a day, but there is so much more to do and see in Ginza. And it's not all shopping. Pick up a brochure and check out the cookery classes, walking tours of historical, heritage and cultural areas, as well as the Tsukiji Jogaii Market - a massive fish market. There's the Kabukiza Theatre, tranquil gardens, the Bridgestone Museum of Art, temples, a currency museum to begin with. Next time, we will stay longer.

On weekend afternoons the 'Ginza Shopping Street' turns into a pedestrian mall. The Japanese term for this is hokoten, meaning, appropriately, 'pedestrian heaven'. At 5pm, a whistle blows, and suddenly the traffic flows again.

This Buddhist monk was slowly walking the same street, accepting alms from respectful passers-by.

With the cars back on the road and, as night falls, pedestrians have to return to the crosswalks. Ginza lights up with a multitude of neon signs and brightly lit shop windows, and the area is ready for.......

.....its after-dark entertainment. Much of which involves dining, yet again. Yes, the Japanese have a complex and extensive cusine, so who can blame them for making the most of it.

But there's something good about having found our 'local' favourite place to eat so easily. We'd loved the relaxed vibe at Ippudo so much that we returned once more to try yet another dish on the menu, this time steamed gyoza.