Window on Penang

This island is about much more than just the food - although it is sensational

Something odd has been happening to Penang lately. One of Malaysia's loveliest islands, it was once known as 'the pearl of the Orient'. Today all people talk about is the capital, George Town's, street art. Like this one, (above) that we found on the way in to the city after crossing the 13.5 kilometre cable-stayed Penang Bridge (below).

This construction is a form of art in itself. The four 101.5 metre-high towers and the steel cables make wonderful geometric patterns that play with the light as you drive across. For many years, after its opening in 1985, it was Penang's only connection to the mainland. In 2014 a second bridge was opened.

Recently we arrived by ship for a visit to Penang, and the view from the deck allowed us a panorama of the harbour and skyline of George Town, named during British colonisation for King George III. Despite its half million population, George Town is a clean city with clear air.

The same can't be said of the traffic that often becomes choked, especially in some of the narrower streets, or in holiday season as it was when we visited. The up-side is that local motorists and cyclists seem to know the width of their vehicles to the last millimetre, a calculation that is vitally important many times a day when you're on the roads. In the background (above) is the city's most striking landmark, the 65-floor Komtar, completed in 1986. It's a good one to remember, and easy to see if you become lost in the maze of lanes in the old city.

Everyone who knows and loves George Town, appreciates its heritage buildings. Fortunately in 2008 UNESCO inscribed the shophouses and older buildings in the city centre as a World Heritage SiteIt is officially recognised as having a unique architectural and cultural townscape without parallel anywhere in East and Southeast Asia.

As you drive or walk around you will notice the unique Peranakan houses such as this one above. Ornamented and colourful, they come from the 19th century when the Straits Chinese settlers married local Malay people and together created a distinct new culture which embraced everything from furniture, art and craft, clothing - and of course (because this is Malaysia, after all) - food!

This roadside sign offers two of Penang's iconic dishes. Laksa is a Peranakan dish and can be found anywhere that ethnic group settled - especially Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia. CNN Travel has ranked Penang Assam Laksa, seventh out of the 50 most delicious food in the world. Soup-like Assam laksa is made with mackerel and its distinctive flavour comes from tamarind that gives the dish a sourish taste.

But that is too simple a way to describe its composition. Like many other signature dishes from cuisines around the world, cooks who make laksa are fiercely protective of their own recipe - devised over the generations – and highly critical of the efforts of others who also make it!

Enjoy this short video of the Hawker Food of Penang

Rojak is another dish that has its own version in Penang. In other parts of Malaysia or Singapore, it is a salad of fruit and vegetables with a savoury dressing. Penang's chefs add peanuts and fried bread pieces and substitute fruits which are sourer (like air jambu - the red fruit above) then balance it out with a rich prawn-enhanced, dark, almost toffee-like dressing. Dedicated rojak fans form queues at the best roadside stalls, so follow the crowd!

With every island, the water that surrounds it plays a vital part in its life. For centuries Penang's fishing boats have foraged nightly for the freshest fish and seafood. Now that tourism features high on the island's list of 'industries', visitors come to enjoy the beaches. The best ones are to the north where, inevitably large resorts and hotels have claimed beach frontage. Venture a little further around the tip of the island, though, and you can hike into the National Park to reach one of the island's best, with lovely white sand and inhabited by crab-eating macaque monkeys. It is called, Monkey Beach, of course.

Quite naturally, the sea's largesse has resulted in fish appearing on most menus. These beauties were simply laid out on a hawker's food stall, ready for the passing evening trade. Fresh and delicious when grilled quickly. And if you wonder what is the unidentifiable and sometimes very strong aroma almost wherever you eat - it comes from shrimp paste, flavouring almost any savoury dish. You'll find it in broths, sauces (even rojak) so seafood-allergics take good note!

Malaysia has such a complex mix of cultures, because of its history, migration and colonisation by several countries over the centuries, that it is quite possible to pass a Buddhist temple just steps from a Sikh one or a mosque or a church. While Islam is the state religion, the Malaysian constitution guarantees freedom of religion, and there seems to be little obvious conflict. Visiting, as we did at Christmas, it was interesting to see Christmas decorations in shops and hotels. Malaysians love a good party, and will take any excuse to celebrate something.

This temple was located on a busy street corner making it easy for people to drop in, light a joss-stick and pray, then keep on with checking their messages on mobile phones. 

It is refreshing to see how the devout can pray openly and freely, as part of daily life.

In fact much of everyday life - worship, eating, socialising - happens on or near the street. Many houses in the old part of George Town open directly onto the footpath, allowing a peep (quite literally in cases like this) into the lives of locals. If this man had turned and seen us, he would have most likely smiled and gone right back to his reading.

Penang's street art is more than just 'graffiti'. Over the past few years, it has become famous and for good reason as some of the paintings are exceptional. You can get a map from the information bureau, (or check online) but be prepared for a bit of a search. Not all are easy to find, yet that's hardly a problem in George Town as there is always so much else to see - or taste, or photograph - while you're looking!

Some of the earlier 'art' was wrought iron, such as this one (above) drawing attention to the Food Trail.

As you can see, these are large murals and amazingly executed in order to keep the perspective correct. And of course they make marvellous props for your own happy-snaps.

By now, you will realise that Penang, and George Town itself, is not all about history. It is a noisy, vibrant, busy, colourful place - and while proud and respectful of its past, it is certainly not isolated from modern trends. Like this cat cafe.

George Town is keeping up with the cafe scene too. There are many trendy bars and cafes popping up in the old streets, especially towards the waterfront. This one, The Mugshot, in Chulia Street became a favourite of ours because of its excellent coffee and its limited, but just-right, menu. Juices, bagels, yoghurt in little pots - and (as its name suggests) there's even a spot if you want to have your picture taken.

These bagels come from the adjoining Rainforest Bakery and are toasted in the cafe's pizza oven. That's not real ham though - it's turkey 'ham' with cranberry.

Not far away in Little India, you feel as though you have skipped back a couple of centuries. This colourful chap is not just hanging out on the streetside. He has an important job to do.

He's with this man, and together they tell the fortunes of passers-by.

Do you recognise these? This strange fruit was once the cause of expeditions, deaths, battles and great fortunes. You would be familiar with the brown nut just visible under the red. This is nutmeg, and the lacy red covering is mace, also used as a spice in modern cookery. Hundreds of years ago, some thought that nutmeg could cure the plague, and had other miraculous uses. It became more valuable than gold and was the reason for much early exploration in south-east Asia. Today, the fruit can also be used in cookery and makes a delicious drink.

George Town's climate is hot and tropical, but for a breath of fresh air and a respite from the heat, hop on this funicular train for a twenty-minute trip to the top of Penang Hill where, at 833 metres, the temperature will be several degrees lower. It may even be foggy or raining.

It's been a popular destination for visitors since the line opened in 1923, so be prepared for a lengthy wait in peak times, and for a bit of crowding onboard.

Chinese immigration to Malaysia over the past couple of hundred years has had a significant effect.

Because of this, Buddhism (followed by 36 percent of the population, and second only to Islam) is a respected part of Penang's colourful lifestyle. Notice that there is even a Thai Buddhist temple (above) as Penang is quite close to Thailand's southern border. The other temple is directly across the street.

But what would be a trip to Penang without monkeys? These cheeky macaques seem quite sure that they own the Penang Botanic Gardens - and every piece of food in the bags or hands of visitors! Watch out for them as they are delightful, but fearless thieves.

Begun as spice gardens in 1794, the 29-hectare gardens include lawns, gardens, a stream, rainforest, orchids and rare plants, and room to stroll and enjoy the surroundings. There is a little 'train' that takes guests on a short tour of the major areas.

Penang's evenings can be much cooler and more enjoyable, and many people choose to stroll the waterfront at Gurney Drive with its cafes, bars, food stalls and views across the water towards Butterworth on the Malay Peninsula.

Many visitors are not aware of this little-known aspect of George Town's rich heritage. The six remaining Clan Jetties were established over a century ago by the main Chinese clans, so each is named after one of them, and this is where they brought their families to live in houses built on stilts over the water and connected by rickety wooden walkways.

Since UNESCO's recognition of George Town's heritage, there has been refurbishment of the area and they have become a drawcard for visitors. Some are busy with souvenir stalls and drink and ice cream stalls.....

... others remain as quiet as a village, home to the locals who are proud to live there.

Maybe it's the heat, maybe it's the rich Asian tradition of socialising over a meal - outdoor food stalls are popular throughout Malaysia. Seen from our Sunway Hotel room far above, the laneway, Lorong Baru, is full of people finding their evening meal, and staying on to enjoy it.

We asked some people waiting in the very long queue at this char kway teow stall, what was its particular attraction. We were told that the food is stirfried in a wok over charcoal which gives a particular heat and flavour to the food. Some people wait for 45 minutes and come from across town. Malaysians are uncompromising food connoisseurs!

Another day, at an unassuming open-fronted shop in a narrow side street, we discovered this man who has spent his working lifetime painstakingly beading shoes in the traditional Peranakan manner. 

Like most vendors in town, he was happy to talk and show off his beautiful work. You can find his location and that of many other heritage traders of Georgetown on a map available from local information centres.

Yet, when visiting a place, it is often the little things that remain. I think I would travel to George Town again just for these delicious morsels which we bought from our car while waiting in traffic beside the pavement stall where they were being made in iron moulds shaped like a pizzelle. Folded while still pliable, slipped into a cone of paper, they were crisply wafer-thin and meltingly sublime.

Perhaps that is what draws people across the world to Penang. Not the scenery, not just the food, not even the wealth of colour and sensory overload. Not the people themselves, either - although their welcome is open and welcoming, for sure. It can be any or all of these, but for me, it is the limitless opportunity for discovery of something new, something unexpected, on this island of endless delights, hidden corners, and simple beauty.

For more information on Malaysia.....

~~~

Text & pictures: ©Sally Hammond

Video: ©Gordon Hammond

 

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