It's hard to believe that in a country just under half the size of New South Wales, Malaysia manages to pack in a sample of just about everything you'd ever want to find in a holiday destination.

Beaches? Got 'em. Tropical islands? Tick. Five star (and more) accommodation? You bet. Shopping? Golf? Exotic food? Unspoiled rainforest? Primitive tribes? The world's tallest twin buildings?

Formerly Malaya, and under British rule until 1957, the two parts of Malaysia - peninsula Malaysia and Eastern Malaysia (Sabah and Sarawak) were federated in 1963.

But one of the things that makes this country unique and fascinating is the blend of cultures - primarily Malay, Chinese and Indian - and this spills over into everything from the magnificent food (more of that later) to clothing styles and arts and crafts. It's a three for the price of one country as far as culture goes, giving a richness and complexity you won't find anywhere else.

Malaysia's capital, Kuala Lumpur - its name often shortened to KL - at the muddy confluence of the Klang and Gombek rivers (and that's what its name means) - with a population of over one and a half million people, is where many conference and international visitors stay.

I was lucky enough to book into the five-star Hilton property, cleverly positioned just steps from Stesen Sentral (Central Station) a guaranteed 28-minute express rail connection to KL airport. Try to do the 75-kilometre trip by road, and if you hit peak hour traffic, it could take hours.

The Hilton Kuala Lumpur is as sleek as it gets. Opened in 2004 it is modern and full of gizmos and thoughtful inclusions (such as a box of toys for children, and another for adult relaxation), among the bells and whistles in my room there was even a blue LCD screen on the shaving and makeup mirror so I could watch TV beamed from the 42-inch plasma screen which is standard in every room. 

Among the slew of restaurants and bars in the property, Senses, the hotel's fine dining restaurant is under the direction of South Australian master-chef, Cheong Liew, and employs several Australian chefs including Kelly Brennan, a protégé of Cheong Liew's.

Seven minutes away by rail, the amazing 88-storey twin Petronas Towers, at almost 452 metres, dominates the city and for a while held the record as the world's tallest buildings. Now ranked second, they've been topped by the 101-story, 509 metre Taipei Financial Centre in Taiwan. A thousand free tickets are given out every day for people to ascend to the Petronas viewing platform, admittedly only half-way up, but I missed out. They had all been taken on the day I was there.

But while the towers were only completed in the last few years, remnants of the past persist in KL. Dataran Merdeka has British colonial buildings and the Petaling Street night market in Chinatown is a reminder of another time.

This seething shopping magnet is THE place to come for watches looking just like the real deal, coloured bands, smart faces, and an irresistible price - 10 ringgit (around A$3.50) each. Further along there are designer-style bags and luggage, shoes, T-shirts, souvenirs and more watches. Bring cash, though as almost no one takes cards, but the good news is that you'll need only around 2.9 Malaysia Ringgits to the AUD.

While it's easy to slip into a back lane and still find people playing mahjong, or carrying on their lives as they have for decades, the face that KL presents is shiny and cosmopolitan, facing the future, and ready for anything. The country's aim is to become fully developed and prosperous by the year 2020, and they are well on the way. The streets are squeaky clean and graffiti is just not there.

The ingredients of Malaysia's racial stirfry: Malay, Tamil Indian and Chinese, plus Portuguese and Straits-born Chinese called Nyonyas and Babas, makes dining here a rich experience. Whether you dine at streetside hawker's stalls, elegant hotel restaurants, or 'banana leaf' Indian eateries where searing curries are served on just that - a sheet of banana leaf - the choice is endless.

Fittingly I travelled to KL with Malaysia Airlines (www.malaysiaairlines.com.au) which has been flying since 1947 and is now south-east Asia's largest passenger carrier. The first airline with a 'business centre in the sky' for First Class and Golden Club class passengers on the B777, it also installed footrests and back-of-seat video screens in economy class long before many other airlines.

KL is a city on the move - upwards and forward. There's an energy to the place. It's like Singapore without the regimentation. Like Hong Kong without the crowding. Perhaps that's because it is its own place, moving at its own pace, and proud of it.

The year 2020 may be a magic year for Malaysia, but I'm counting on returning long before that.

FACTFILE:
What: Peninsular Malaysia lies just north of the equator, bordered by Thailand to the north.

Where: Hilton Hotels; flying Malaysia Airlines.

When: The weather is tropical, so be prepared for afternoon rain showers. Take a light sweater for air conditioned restaurants.