Three dollars (well, about that, at least - RM8 return). That was the price of the ticket we bought at Lumut, a small coastal town in western peninsular Malaysia. For this we boarded the ferry which crosses the narrow channel between the mainland and Pangkor Island, a crazily-cheap trip to total relaxation.

The jungle-backed Pan Pacific Resort, where we stayed owns the entire end of the island, a private and perfect hideaway. But take a round-island trip in one of the lolly-pink local taxis, and you'll find native villages ponging with the anchovy-drying industry that keeps them going, couple-sized beaches begging for investigation, monkeys that are best avoided if you value your camera gear, and tropical fruits so tempting you will have a new compassion for Eve. This entire smorgasbord of sensory delight is served on a platter just twelve kilometres by four, bordered by crisp white sand and brilliant sea.

The staff told me proudly that the average stay at the resort is two weeks, and I could see why. Somehow their uniquely comfortable own-brand banana lounges kept me pretty occupied for most of my much shorter stay. After all when the waves are literally just metres from your room, and the beach, seemingly cut from a postcard, has to be this world's most delightful kilometre to walk along, who needs the swimming pool, jet-skis, kayaks and surf-bikes? Or the boat-trips to other places? I noticed many other guests did, but my spot under the huge and shady sea-almond tree, worked just fine for me.

All that relaxing needs sustenance though, and the breakfast and dinner buffets are designed to keep you well-fuelled. If you must, there is also an a la carte lunch, and snacks throughout the day. The evening buffet changes constantly, so some nights the restaurant is transformed into a row of traditional Malaysian hawker's stalls. Other nights it's a seafood barbecue. As if that's not enough the resort's pastry-chef ruins your intentions of keeping trim with a parade of European and Malaysian cakes, breads and desserts.

At breakfast you really should try nasi lemak - a traditional Malay breakfast of coconut rice, tiny roasted dried fish, peanuts, cucumber and hardboiled eggs topped with a fiery ladle of sauce. To quench the flames, there are wedges of cool watermelon, papaya and pineapple. And for the more adventurous there are always other Malaysian dishes of fish and chicken, still heartily spiced and, of course, more rice. Wash this down with teh tarik (pulled tea) and you can face anything.

Most days we chose simply to wander the beach, sending tiny terrified sand-crabs scuttling into their holes as we approached. So camouflaged were they that the entire beach seemed at times to be on the scamper. Occasionally, staying very still, we surprised several reappearing, and watched enthralled as full-scale battles broke out between neighbours.

Early one morning as the traditionally dressed beach sweeper worked to rid the sand of any debris, a band of monkeys played, frisking in the cool sunlight. Another night we played like children trying to catch phosphorescence that lit up the waves and stranded itself in glowing globs on the sand. Way out at sea a patch shone as if a light had been turned on in the ocean bed - a shoal of anchovies, we were told, their silver bodies reflecting the starlight.

In the village of Pangkor, about eight kilometres from the resort, we saw silver mounds of those same tiny fish heaped in doorways at the edge of the bay. Women in head scarves squatted around the shimmering piles, sorting them ready for market. A pretty picture to take home, perhaps, but the smell in the humid heat almost made me vow never to eat that nasi lemak, again.

Three hundred years ago, Pangkor was captured by the Dutch and the ruins of their fort may still be visited. Originally this was an island inhabited by natives living in tiny fishing villages on its rim. Developers came eventually, trading employment and money, perhaps, for privacy. Who can tell?

Yet the native villages (kampungs), floating fishing camps and jungle are still here. Tiny gecko-like cicuks are everywhere too, changing colour to match the surface they cling to with their sticky fat toes. Round black eyes glare at you as they make their trademark 'click-click' sound, and locals say that if you hear their call, there will be rain soon.

Finally it was time to leave this romantic spot. As I used the return part of my ticket to Lumut, I couldn't bear to look back. Paradise had come cheaply, but it was costing me plenty to leave.

FACTFILE

DESTINATION

Pangkor, an island off the west coast of peninsular Malaysia, 90km from Ipoh, 3-4 hours by road, north of Kuala Lumpur.

WHEN TO GO

Pangkor has good weather all year, although April is the hottest month. December-January is very good.

HOW TO GET THERE

Malaysia Airlines to Kuala Lumpur International Airport.

Pelangi Air flies daily to Pangkor, or you can go by coach or taxi to Lumut then a 25-minute ferry trip to Pangkor.

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Tourism Malaysia

WHERE TO STAY

Pan Pacific Resort has resort-style accommodation. Sea View Hotel has more budget accommodation and there are beach huts and a campground at Pasir Bogak.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

A two-hour round island trip by taxi costs around RM40 for 1-4 people.

You will see native fishing villages, secluded bays, beaches, a Dutch Fort and ancient Dutch tomb. There is also scuba diving, swimming and snorkelling. Pangkor Resort has pool, tennis courts, nine-hole golf course, and aqua sports, and a round island cruise.

WHERE TO EAT

The resort a la carte or buffet restaurant, or local fare in the 'ristorans' in Pangkor village.

GETTING AROUND

Motor cycles or bicycles are for hire from Pan Pacific Resort.

RATE OF EXCHANGE

Approximately RM1.96 to AUD