by Sally Hammond

A busby-topped bagpiper, clad in full tartan, fills Edinburgh's cavernous Waverley station with Scotland's unique soundtrack. He's piping us aboard the Royal Scotsman. It's just the first 'ooh-aah' experience of a once-in-a-lifetime trip.

Our group files into the Observation Car for fresh strawberries and afternoon tea from bone china cups as we ease away from the platform for our chug-a-lug tour of the Scottish highlands.

The Royal Scotsman looks as if it should be heritage-listed. But, no. Around twenty years ago ten Pullman carriages were totally transformed - each cabin given its own private facilities, electric heating installed throughout, and the Observation and Dining Cars decorated in a retro-glamour style - think, wood panelling, lace antimacassars, etched mirrors, candelabra.

There's an iron-railed platform at the rear of the train where we stand to watch the track unfurling behind us, and laugh as the noise startles shaggy orange highland cattle and black-faced sheep.

The Royal Scotsman travels traditionally on old-style rails, clicketty-clacking its way north through Dundee and Keith to Inverness, then across the country to the Kyle of Lochalsh, close to Skye. It then doubles back, repeating one of the most scenic loch-side stretches, taking a parallel route back to Edinburgh. Each night we 'stable' at some quiet siding to sleep undisturbed.

One morning we rattle past one of the best breakfast views on earth. Beside us lies Loch Carron with the white houses of the tiny village of Plockton (setting for the TV series Hamish Macbeth) just blotching into the distance. Metres away the water is silky in the early morning light, while feathers of mist still cling to the nearest pine-covered hilltops.

Unexpectedly, this tour is not all on rails. There are many stops where a stylish matching maroon coach whisks us off to some nearby highlight - a distillery here, a castle there, a country estate elsewhere.

One evening we tour 13th-century Eilean Donan castle, a brooding former ruin, now restored and well-prepared to guard its promontory for another few centuries. In the distance we could make out the graceful arch of the bridge to Skye and beyond that the mountainous wild Cuillins, mere shadows in the twilight.

That night we have one of the two formal dinners on our four-night Classic tour of the highlands. The long table in the dining car has been set for a banquet and fine china and dozens of glasses sparkle in the lamplight. Men wear tuxes or kilts and the ladies know that diamonds and pearls and evening dresses are definitely not overkill in this environment.

Meals match the luxury of the train, the menu paced more to the expectations of the much-travelled than those to the manor born. They feature the best of Scottish fare prepared to award-winning standards. We learn to enjoy Arbroath smokies (smoked haddock, a local fish) and, of course, Scotland's answer to andouillettes, haggis.

This Orient Express train carries just 32 passengers and the team of highly trained staff could grace any five-star hotel in the world The bar on board stocks 32 whiskies and almost every liquor known, and dispenses espresso coffees. Service is discreet, charming, and anticipates every need.

That's what wins people, really. It's royal treatment, all the way.

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