Whether chef-restaurateur Neil Perry believes in numerology or not, the addition of his latest restaurant, Rosetta, in October 2012 in  Melbourne now brings the total of his Australian dining empire to the magical number seven. Coincidentally, he has also authored seven recipe books.

Most people know that his first venture in Sydney, the iconic Rockpool has stood at the top of the dining charts for a staggering 24 years. But even the keenest restaurant followers could be forgiven for losing track of his many later ventures.

The latest, Perry's third for Melbourne, indulges his passion for the flavours of Italian food. Some might be surprised, given his original seafood emphasis in Sydney and the three upmarket grill restaurants he has opened in Sydney, Perth and Melbourne, but he would disagree.

A serial traveller to Italy, Neil Perry has been collecting recipes on his trips from fellow-chefs and locals. Seasonal regional produce has always been at the core of his cuisine, and of course, Italian food is squarely based on the innovative taste-driven use of whatever ingredients are freshest at any moment.

Unsurprisingly, central to Rosetta's kitchen is a wood-fired oven and char-grill. This is where signature Italian dishes such as suckling pig and lamb, and roast chicken, may slowly cook to perfection.

Add an elegant Iain Halliday restaurant fit-out channelling the style of Cipriani's and Harry's Bar to this rustic aspect, and immediately there's the beginning of a recipe for success. With a sweeping view of Melbourne's skyline, it's a comfortable size, seating 120 inside and 80 on the heated alfresco terrace overlooking the promenade and Yarra River.

Perry is understandably excited by the result. 

"Iain and I wanted Rosetta to be classical, luxe and to reference all the important 'Italianisms' that we aspire to," he says. "From the punched tan leather reception desk, which resembles the interior of a Ferrari, to the vintage Fornasetti screens, antiques and gilded pieces, everything has been meticulously sourced to create this highly individual, beautifully designed and highly functional restaurant."

And there's plenty for diners to admire while eating. Carrara and Viola marble is a foil for rich mahogany parquetry walls adorned by some of Italy's most famous faces. The large domed ceilings with Barovier & Toso chandeliers contrast perfectly with medieval-russet coloured velvet banquettes, custom-made leather chairs and sheer linen blinds.

"With a distinctly Italian aesthetic and vibe, Rosetta is the place where people will meet to be fed from the heart," says Perry, "Just like Italians love to do for their family and friends - whether it be a special celebratory dinner or a leisurely Sunday lunch in the sun."

As an added touch the private dining room accommodating 20, has a modern Warhol-inspired mural of Michelangelo's The Last Supper.

The other - and obviously integral - ingredient for a restaurant's success, though, is the chef. Or in this case chefs. Over his many years in the industry, Perry has mentored many fine chefs and he is intensely proud of them, and they are loyal to him.  For Rosetta he has selected Brendan Sheldrick who has worked within the Rockpool Group for the past seven years, and most recently at Spice Temple Melbourne. He works closely with Neil, interpreting his modern, produce-inspired philosophy, while putting his own touches on the menu.

But this is an Italian restaurant, with pasta a key element of the menu, so two pasta-chefs are also employed to daily hand-make over 16 different kinds, from maccaronara, cavatelli and garganelli to the more traditional fettuccine, pappardelle and gnocchi.

Of course, the third key element is wine, another area where Perry's restaurants always excel. Restaurant manager and sommelier Daniele Bilancetti, manages the seventy staff and also oversees a wine list featuring over 700 Italian varietals from both Italy and Australia.

Perry would be the first to say that he is not in his job for the numbers, but here's hoping that restaurant number seven is as 'lucky' as it should be.

- by Sally Hammond (first published in Travel & Living, issue #48

Rosetta Ristorante, Crown Melbourne, Southbank, Melbourne, is open for lunch from 12-3pm, Tuesday to Sunday, and dinner from 6pm, seven days. Bookings can be made by calling 03 8648 1999 or visiting the website.