by Sally Hammond

We arrange to meet our friend at 7pm on the terrace behind the restaurant. Glass of bubbly in hand we survey the hills and valleys of this part of the Barossa and marvel at the stillness, the serenity of it all.

Nearby it's no surprise to see Executive Chef Mark McNamara foraging in his kitchen garden. These raised garden beds planted into cut down galvanised iron tanks for easy maintenance are his pride and joy, and it's easy to see why. It's here he raises a wide range of ingredients, ready to be freshly harvested moments before use.

As we talk, he points out rainbow chard, Jerusalem artichokes, broccolini, Japanese turnips, the last of the aubergines, young chicory, young endive, dandelion, pea sprouts, Brussels sprouts, rhubarb, sweet potatoes and a wide range of herbs, including parsley, chervil, coriander and arugula,

Other seasons there are globe artichokes, kohlrabi, asparagus, broad beans, romanesco, snow peas, cavolo nero, strawberries and mache and the restaurant also has a range of young citrus trees including limes, blood oranges etc which are yet to become productive and other fruit trees including, quince, corella pears, and figs.

Later we see some of these ingredients in action in his seven-course degustation menu, matched with local wines. Everything from the avocado lime terrine amuse bouche through the unassuming, but flavour-packed sweet potato cubes with cumin, to duck served with local Seppelts sherry (not to mention the addictive raisin and caraway bread served with local Fust cheese) and on to dessert is sensational. Each dish shows McNamara's careful touch and exquisite planning, even when one of his team is carrying out the final work.

The restaurant itself provides the perfect backdrop for the experience: white clothed tables, candles, ochre-orange-red abstract paintings, and well-chosen light jazz music playing softly. Couples and groups murmur over the menu. Waiters materialise when needed. In Europe this whole package would gain Appellation a Michelin star.

There are so many iconic names here in the Barossa, and Appellation encapsulates them all. Award-winning Chef McNamara, a founding member of Food Barossa, delights in the abundance of country-fresh local produce which features on the restaurant's daily-changing menu. This hilltop hotel complex reopened late 2006, after a careful renewal which reflects its importance in a community so well-known for its love of fine food and wine. Best of all, luxury suites mean guests can prolong the dinner experience and stay over for breakfast.

Appellation @ The Louise, Seppeltsfield Road, Marananga, via Tanunda, South Australia, 08 8562 2722,