For many years I - even I, a dedicated card-carrying Francophile - did not realize that there was a splash of France in the Pacific. And so close too. A mere - 'ow you say? - petanque ball throw away.

Somehow it's the destination everyone thinks of as much further. Maybe it's the relaxed pace of the place. Certainly it's the ideal port of call for anyone wanting a taste of the tropics laced with pastis.

'We're honeymooning in Noumea,' couples say, when really they mean the Isle of Pines, an islet off the southern tip of New Caledonia. For Noumea is not a country, it's a port city, located on the south-western corner of Grand Terre (which roughly translates as 'big land'), the cigar shaped island that makes up the bulk of this self-governing TOM which since 1956 has been a Territoire Outre-Mer, which is French for 'overseas territory'.

The Melanesians, the indigenous inhabitants of this drop-in-the-ocean Pacific island located east of Queensland at about the level of Mackay, call the place Kanaky. To the French of course, it is Nouvelle Caledonie. No wonder we're all confused.

The city (population around 135,000) is a mixture of European and Pacific island cultures. At some shops brilliantly coloured shirts and dresses flutter alongside shell necklaces and carved wooden boats. Across the street a provedore sells French wines, pate and brie. Baguettes and breadfruit, taro and chevre, the flavours of Noumea are as diverse as you like. Even the faces of local people show the blend of cultures.

After all New Caledonia was settled by both Britain and France during the first half of the 19th century, before the island became a French possession in 1853, serving as a penal colony until the end of that century.

The Accord de Noumea in 1998 finally sealed an agreement between the French colonists and the indigenous Kanaks, and the general feeling is that there is more equality, and harmony now because of it. Today the place straddles Melanesian and European culture while somehow - mostly - keeping its balance.

And while English is widely spoken, it is still a polite custom to assume that you should at least begin a conversation in whatever French you absorbed at school. French is the lingua franca here, although Melanesian is widely spoken too, so it's best to pack a phrasebook.

Do realize that this is not your high energy port of call. Plan to join the locals as they jog and stroll along waterside boulevards, and stand silently watching as silver balls make their soft 'petanque' sound in a ritual evening game on a scrap of gravel beside a road. Or you can slot in some casual shopping in Noumea's pared back CBD, or simply just snorkel or sunbake the day away.

If you want to make like Madame Noumea though, get up early - 5am-ish - and head for the waterfront Port Moselle markets. Here, bundles of crusty French bread keep company with taro and tiny spiky pineapples. This is where, on Saturday morning, many Noumeans, shopping bag and Pacific Francs at the ready, come to stock up on their weekend supplies. Watch for manioc, the starchy Pacific mainstay, as well as the freshest fruit and vegetables, bright-eyed fish just pulled from the ocean, patisserie, and even flowers for the table.

But although one of the hexagonal buildings is solely for fish and seafood, and another for fruit and vegetables, there is enough to keep everyone happy here with trinkets, jewellery, souvenirs and casual clothing. The market packs up around noon so don't be slow getting there.

Most visitors come to Noumea specifically to enjoy its croissant shaped beaches, the French restaurants and top-end hotels and resorts. These alone can give you plenty to enjoy.

However a boat trip to nearby Amadee lighthouse is a possibility to consider. This coral islet just 20 kilometres from the town is the spot where a sparkling white lighthouse was erected in 1865 after being shipped in pieces from Paris. Since then it has guarded the entrance to the port, and if you have the energy you may tackle the 231 steps to the top and enjoy the inevitable view of endless ocean and islands.

If views are your thing, then you may also want to visit Mont Dore. Just a few kilometres from the centre of town, it's an energetic walk to the top at 772 metres.

Perhaps the landmark that Noumea is most proud of though is the Tjibaou Cultural Centre, inaugurated in 1998. With its unique design by Italian architect Renzo Piano (one of the architects of the Pompidou Centre in Paris) it stands out on the horizon from many points.

Spread over eight hectares, on a bay ten kilometres east of Noumea, the buildings are meant to represent huts and villages, and are made from an imported weather-resistant hardwood. The center houses performing arts arenas, art displays, a library and exhibition halls, as well as conference and meeting rooms. It is the ideal place, too, for live displays of New Caledonia's native people and their life and lore.

Although Captain Cook named these islands as he passed by in 1774, it was not until 1853 that Napoleon III ordered the annexation of the archipelago of New Caledonia and it became a penal colony, and the early history is no less brutal than much of Australia's. West of central Noumea is Nouville, where stone buildings of the 19th-century convict days have now weathered to a benign gold. In one building a display of photographs and relics bring the past into grim focus.

The backdrop of incredible island beauty for this penal settlement only heightened the gruesome conditions. Heads rolled, literally, after the guillotine was shipped there, but it was not until 1897 that France finally ceased transporting criminal and political prisoners. Despite these dark beginnings, nearby today, a restaurant juts out over the water serving food you would be happy to find in any modern city.

If you have more time on your hands, a short flight from the colourfully-named Magenta domestic airport, will land you in a little paradise all of its own: the Isle of Pines. While you may be tempted simply to soak up the sun on the beach here, a round island tour is well worth while.

New Caledonia has an immense range of water-based activities such as water-skiing, boating, diving, swimming and snorkelling, as well as horse riding, cycling, bush safaris, parasailing, hiking and outdoor activities. There are 4WD safaris and coach tours, and if you have any time left over, there is always the French language to master. Classes are available at Nouville.

New Caledonia's currency is the Pacific Franc, and although you will need a passport for entry into New Caledonia a visa is not needed for Australians. Although the climate is moderate and sunny and you can swim all year round, take a sweater for cooler evenings.

France's influence on this territory means there are many bistros and bars, and good restaurants, but also plenty of snack bars, as well as Chinese and Vietnamese cafes. There is duty free shopping on all French and European goods, as well as good buys on local carvings and handcrafts. Expect the French tradition of a midday break here, with shopping hours from around 7.30am to 11.30am and 2pm to 6pm.

Noumea. It's a well established destination, but if you've never yet visited, the surprises it offers may tempt you to rename it New-mea.

- Sally Hammond

Have you visited New Caledonia? What did you like most?