Fragrant, flamboyant, furtive, festering Fez

Moroccan architecture is ornate and intricately decorated, but the curvaceous arches add style. Notice that despite the enormous detail, no animals or humans are represented. Even the colours have significance that relates to the earth and sky and other elements.

More than likely you will enter the old city through this gate, the Bab Bou Jeloud, built in 1913, so much more recent than many buildings in  the city.

Once inside the old city, expect to get lost quickly in the maze of narrow alleys - and to be sidetracked by artisans like this man.

Watch out for the cats. The place is full of them, perhaps because there are almost no dogs.

Spare a glance upwards too, as you may see highly detailed ceilings like this.

The produce market sells everything from poultry to camel meat.

This 14th-century water clock was designed by a clockmaker and part-time magician. Water flowing into brass bowls from the protruding beams tells the time. But the secret of how it works died with the creator.

This cafe, next to the clock, is a popular meeting spot.

Doors are heavy and give little idea of what might be behind them. Sometimes the hand of Fatima (right) is added for protection.

And at every turn, there is the food -

ropes of figs, mounds of nougat,

olives, breads.......

...  this crumpet-like bread that comes in all sizes.

Watch the video (below) to see Fez in action  

The leather district is not to be missed, but make sure you accept your guide's offer of some mint to hold under your nose.

The terrible smell from the many vats is almost overpowering

but you can buy the results of the men's hard work in the shops nearby.

The craftsmanship of the many artisans throughout the city makes it hard to leave without a few souvenirs.

Prepare yourself for at least one rug salesman.

These brilliant silks are made from cactus fibres and spun by hand.

Mules and donkeys are used to carry loads in the alleys too small for cars or trucks. No prizes for guessing what this mule will soon be transporting.

Not strawberries - these fruits came from a local tree called (predictable) the strawberry tree.

Although France was only in control of Morocco for around 50 years (from 1912 to 1956) French is widely spoken and used. 

The sheep of Morocco have long wool and here is is being readied to stuff mattresses.

The riads of Morocco were grand courtyard residences, close to the palace, and used by nobles and rich merchants. Today they would have to be the most ornate and regal 'bed and breakfasts' in the world.

The alley sign gives little hint of the luxury and beauty within.

The ancient city of Fez. Twelve hundred years of history - and secrets.

To visit....

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Words and photographs: ©Sally Hammond

Video: ©Gordon Hammond

Sally and Gordon Hammond travelled independently to Morocco. While there, their tour was organised by Morocco By Prior Arrangement and, on occasions, hosted  locally.