Some advice: don’t just visit Derry~Londonderry. Live it. Don’t rush the walls, stroll them. Don’t scan the Guildhall, drink it in. First time here? Take a tour and meet the locals. Hear the Foyle River thunder under the Peace Bridge, drool over hot-buttered soda farls in your new favourite café, and follow your ear to best traditional music session in town.

Don’t stand on the sidelines in the Walled City. Be part of it. You’ll be glad you did.

Curious about when these stone wonders were built? You may not believe it to look at them, but building began 401 years ago, back when King James I required defenses to keep the newly planted population safe from Irish rebels besieging the city. At 1.5 kilometres in circumference and varying thicknesses of between 3.5-10 metres, they did their job. In fact, Derry~Londonderry’s walls have never been breached. And the price to build such handsome, efficient walls? £10,757. A bargain.

The Gates

There are seven gates (entrances) to the walled city. First up, the originals: Shipquay Gate (originally the main point of entry from the River Foyle); Bishop’s Gate (sculpted heads represent the Foyle and Boyne rivers); Butcher Gate (the animal market was once located right outside this entrance); and Ferryquay Gate, (overlooked the ferry quay on the River Foyle). Castle Gate, New Gate and Magazine Gate were added between 1790 and 1888.

The Cannons

Considering the troublesome history of the walls, it’s no surprise they’re dotted with a cannon or two. Icons of more turbulent times (two particular sieges in the 17th century saw these weapons smoke and thunder over the Foyle), the 24 cannons got a makeover in 2005 when they were waxed, sponged and repainted. They even had their barrels cleaned. Roaring Meg, located on the double bastion, remains the superstar.

Culture city

Few were surprised when UK City of Culture made Derry-Londonderry its home in 2013. This is a city where spots like Cultúrlann Uí Chanáin (the interior of which was nominated for the prestigious Stirling Prize for Architecture), The Verbal Arts Centre and the Nerve Centre bubble and buzz with the kind of unique spoken word, music, modern art and drama events that define a place and its people.

More venues in Derry~Londonderry

The Peace Bridge:  Mere steps from the Guildhall and the city walls, this river-spanning beauty is a visual treat. Introduced to the city in 2011, the elegant, snaking curves of its design have seen the Peace Bridge become a Derry-Londonderry icon, and a scenic spot from which to watch the majestic Foyle rush towards a meeting with the eponymous Lough Foyle to the north.

Refresh:

Café Del Mondo, Shipquay Street: nice location in the Craft Village. Cosy interior + rugged, tasty food = winner.

Legenderry Warehouse No.1, Guildhall Street: great coffee, sinful pastries and a relaxed atmosphere.

Beech Hill Country House Hotel, Ardmore Road: sumptuous food and elegant surrounds. Perfect for a long lunchs.

Ebrington Square: once a military barracks, today boasts a Zen, modern art feel. A prime picnic spot.

Visit:

The Tower Museum: stories and artefacts ranging from the Spanish Armada to WWII. A triumph.

The Museum of Free Derry: Derry-Londonderry doesn’t hide from its past. Get the inside story here.

St Columb’s Cathedral: luxuriant and ingenious architecture, stone, tile and stained glass. Gorgeous.