The small six-seater seaplane noisily circles the coral-edged sands, spiraling down to those predictably peacock-coloured waters. Yet even as you splash down, there is another sound you hear as the engines cut. Perfect South Sea Island harmonies.

Then, as the plane's door opens there they are: a dozen staff, bright leis in their arms, wading out to you, their smiles as wide and white and sparkling as the beach.

Welcome to Turtle Island! Yes, it's more than a weekend getaway.... but a week? Attention: stressed city types (Turtle Island only accepts couples) hop on a flight from Sydney bound for Fiji. In under four hours you disembark and next day, after a night in Nadi, and a half hour flight by seaplane, you arrive in paradise.

As you are helped into calf-deep water, warm as a baby's bath, one dark Fijian hand drapes you in flowers, another passes a tall glass of punch, garnished just as much as you are it seems. Wade ashore sipping it then you are then gently propelled along the beach. 

Someone will bring your luggage to the bure just steps away, as well as the shoes you won't wear again for days. The wide white bed is decorated with flowers, and palm leaves cut to spell WELCOME.

For this is serious laid-back luxury land. You won't need to move a muscle to plan anything – except maybe to deciede where you would like to have your next meal. Or drink!

Time passes in a happy blur: meal, swim, snorkel, boat trip, sleep on the daybed, read a book, eat again, collect shells and thread them on a souvenir necklace, sleep and drink.

When you begin to measure your days by snoozes and swims, you'll know you've made the transition to Turtle-time – a quantum lifestyle change.

It would be a shame though to neglect the rest of this tiny island. Your hibiscus-screened bure is simply an island on an island. There's room for just fourteen couples on this glistening gem, and it's no coincidence that there are fourteen secluded beaches, any of which can be booked for the day – picnic provided, double hammock on site. Their names include Honeymoon Beach, so where else did we choose to spend our wedding anniversary?

We returned later in the day to find that big white bed in our cool bure, decorated with red hibiscus spelling out our names and wishing us well. The poles were wrapped in woven matting and hung with more hibiscus. Feeling thoroughly spoiled, we chose to dine that evening at the end of the jetty, alone in the silky darkness, the lights of our fellow diners dimly discernible on the beach, their laughter pinpricks of sound across the water.

It seems your whim is Turtle Island's chance to perform. Would you fancy biscuits to go with your afternoon coffee? Or fresh lemonade delivered to your bure daily? It happens. Accompanied by a broad Fijian smile. Dinner on the mountaintop? On the pontoon? In the special honeymoon cottage? The sensuous lapping of the waves is perfect background music for, well, anything you like.

Romance is the theme of this place. Almost all the guests are couples, some marry right on the island, and many others are celebrating love's milestones: honeymoons and anniversaries. Yet there is a serious side to the place too.

A medical centre is planned for the island and already there is a boarding high school, fully staffed and providing much needed education for local youngsters from neighbouring islands, with the funding augmented in an unusual way.

When possible, turtles are bought from local fishermen planning to sell them for their valuable but illegal shells. These are auctioned to guests at dinner at the communal table on the beach. The proceeds go to the school fund, and next day the successful couple has the pleasure of painting a message on the turtle's shell – thus rendering it useless for sale – and releasing it into the lagoon.

Many have wondered why this stunning island has such an unromantic name. It's shape is only vaguely turtle-ish, so most believe it has to be that the waters are home to large and (now) endangered turtles. Sadly the world trade in turtleshell has hardly diminished and every day the small enclosure at the end of the jetty is a temporary home to one or two sea turtles bought, they say from local fishing people who aim to sell them at local markets.

True or not, these lumbering brown creatures cause a lot of interest amongst the guests and each evening during the communal dinner on the beach, an auction is held. Hundreds of dollars are bid and the new owners have a responsibility the next day.

Armed with paint and brush, they write their own message on the turtle's shiny shell. 'Love from Peter and Maree, Go Free!', 'Honeymoon 1999, Geoff and Sherree' – that sort of thing. Then, supporting the huge creature carefully by its shell and flailing flippers they wade out to release it where the water becomes deep enough. Freedom! The turtle's lumbering land speed is gone as it streaks off into the ocean, back amongst the hordes of brilliantly striped and spotted reef fish.

For the fifteen couples, many of them honeymooners or those celebrating a special milestone, there are fifteen beaches which may be booked for a private day. Meals may be taken separately too, but many enjoy making friends with other couples.

As the small aircraft takes off at the end off the week, heading back to Nadi, and ultimately home, the strains of "Isa lei, isa lei", the haunting song the staff sings to guests as farewell, echo in the passengers' ears.

"Come back," they call, so for luck and a soon return, drop the red hibiscus garlands they've just given you into the water before you taxi away across the lagoon.

After all, you want to do everything you can to ensure another taste of heaven!

FACTFILE

WHERE IS IT? Turtle Island is situated north-west of Viti Levu, in the Yasawa Group of islands.

HOW DO I GET THERE? Air Pacific to Nadi, Fiji, then Turtle Air seaplane to the island. Many other airlines also fly to Nadi (pronounced Nandy).

WHAT IS THERE TO DO? Apart from simply relaxing, there is swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, sea kayaking and water sports, walking across the island or along the kilometres of white beaches. Catch a fish or catch up on your sleep.

FOR INFORMATION ON PACKAGES AND BOOKINGS: Daily rates are all inclusive of meals, accommodation, drinks and laundry. The Turtle Island website has full details including toll-free numbers to contact throughout the world.