What do you get when you mix...

...centuries of history...

...downright quirkiness...

...postcard perfection...

...and bakery delights in villages that make you want to pack-up and live there?

~~~

This was our delightful dilemma in southern Serbia.

Of course we knew we would finally return to our own home, but I guess many travellers have toyed with such delirious destination day-dreams. Guess you understand, too - the tingling consideration of the what-ifs caused by sampling another place, a different culture, a fanciful future.

~~~

However, at the beginning of this lap of our trip, all of those experiences are still ahead. First, we must cross the border from Bulgaria into Serbia.

This is not the first time we have done it. Weeks before, during the early days of our lengthy, self-driving 'Eastern Europe and Balkans' trip, we'd crossed from Hungary into northern Serbia, and overcome our fears almost immediately. See what I mean, here...

This time we are laid-back. It's more like revisiting an old and fascinating friend.

After six weeks on the road and several new countries, we feel like we have maybe seen it all. Then, southern Serbia hits the 'jaw drop switch' and claims our hearts all over again. 

As we travel on, the lush countryside unfolds before us, punctuated by an occasional local going about a day's work. And, yes, you will have noticed (above) that at least one English word is understood here! 

Europe is quite a fan of tunnels, and when you see massive cliffs and gorges like this, you can see why.

+++

Nis - short name, but a long history

If you scroll back to the top of this page, there's  that memorial to Constantine the Great who, in the third century AD, was the first Roman Emperor to convert to Christianity.

Why so many owls? Actually, these could be honouring Serbian long-eared owls, best found in Kikinda, a city in the far north of Serbia. 

~~~

On our first day, though, we are more interested in coffee, and quirky Tramvaj drew us in. 

A long-established family-run cafe, its quirk-appeal is that the inside of the building is furnished with vintage tram seats, tables and racks.

Several booths in the plaza outside are ideal if you are into people-watching...

...and the coffee, mains and delicious desserts and ice cream, made us return again the next day.

~~~~

Actually, for a short time in Nis, we had wondered if we might be having many meals here. 

Remember the towering cliffs and the tunnels shown in the introduction as we approached Nis? Much as we were loving the scenery, the edges of the road were rough and crumbling in some places. It was mid-May and no doubt recent icy weather had weakened them.

Yup, avoiding a looming over-the-centre-line truck, we hit a deep kerbside pothole and, while the car could still be driven, Gordon knew the wheel needed attention before we travelled much further. Kilometres from Nis, and Saturday afternoon (fortunately now back an hour on Serbian time) but we all know that this is when most garages close to allow their staff some well-earned rest.

Ironically, nearby, we saw a Roads of Serbia sign (in English): 'Somebody loves you. Drive carefully!'

We had been - but not that other guy.

This is not the rental car we were driving, but it is important.

Finally, in Nis, we found one automotive centre still open, and a mechanic who said he could check it out and have it ready for us on Monday. Ooops! we had only booked for one night here, and planned to travel onwards the next afternoon. And the next...

Long story, short. Rather than locking up and spending precious weekend time with his family, this kind man worked on until 11pm that night, straightening and fixing the wheel.

The photo, above, is of his company car, and I snapped it so that I could share the goodness of this man with others. We paid him double the amount he suggested, but his kindness and understanding was worth so much more. 

THIS is the part of travelling we love best - meeting the people of a country, communicating in a way that transcends speech, building respect and understanding. This is the reward. The best souvenirs.

That mechanic, whose name I did not keep, may have forgotten this episode, but we surely haven't.

~~~

Next day in Nis, and with our car back to normal, we are thrilled by the glorious day. Life looks good again, so we decide to explore as much as we can.

Just a block from our hotel we join a crowd of people in the Sunday sunshine, and head for the 18th-century Turkish-built fortress, now used for entertainment and relaxation.

The park inside the walls has a relaxed feel - not too commercialised, but ideal for families, and with plenty of picnic areas.

Nis is the third-largest city in Serbia and apart from being a commercial centre, has some important buildings, such as this, the former medieval Bali-Begova mosque.

We soon realise that this park is for everyone's enjoyment.

Outside again, and others are enjoying exercising in the sunshine on the banks of the river Nisava.

Nearby, a gentleman strums a banjo - watch out to see more on this video!

One of the difficulties of not understanding the language of another country, is not fully understanding what is taking place, but this was fairly self-evident. A bike race is about to begin. That much is obvious, as they all look too bright and relaxed, to be at the end of their event.

Maybe, it's just because it is a Sunday, but the city centre seems to be buzzing with shoppers, buskers and people like us, strolling in the early spring sunshine.

These fellows certainly seemed to be enjoying a chat!

We had been told about Tinker's Alley and its cafes, so we walk on. Originally it was called Coppersmith Alley, built in the early part of the 18th century, and became a base for craftsmen. Because many of them were 'tinkers' from Ireland, it later assumed this current name. 

~~~

By stark contrast we also visit, a place that the map succinctly calls 'the Skull Tower'. We have already heard of it and its gruesome history.

You may be able to read some of the story on the right-hand panel above but, if not, basically, this is the terrible story: in 1809, in the first Serbian Uprising against the Ottoman Empire, local soldiers were outnumbered and easily overthrown. Beheaded by the insurgents, their skulls were built into the tower, and are displayed here as a shocking reminder.

Read more here...

There are thousands here and the picture (above) appears to have added a couple of ghostly reflections as well.

On that sobering and grisly note - but tempered by a delicious Tramvaj icecream - we leave Nis. 

Novi Pazar (meaning new bazaar) is our destination tonight, our last stop in Serbia before heading on for Montenegro, a few more mountain ranges away.

But wait, if this has interested you, there's more about Nis...

~~~

Heading west 

Again we take to the road and begin the next leg of our journey. Google Maps tells us we have 170km of winding road ahead, that should take us well over three hours, before we arrive in Novi Pazar. 

We think of those tinkers from Ireland, over two centuries ago, laden with their pots and pans, travelling on mules and horses, crossing these mountains.

And then we see a present-day cottage industry, open for business on the edge of a steep cliff, offering local honey, pepper sauce, jams and berries.

I walk to the edge and see, far below, a church. Possibly the stall-owner's home is down there somewhere, too.

A woman, presumably the owner, appears from somewhere. She's been watching us, but lacking a common language, I can't ask more about her wares - did she make everything herself, does she grow the fruits and herbs that she uses in her products - that sort of thing.

I launch a sort of non-conversation, but give up quickly. 'Dobra, dobra,' I say, hoping it means what I think it does (good). Then 'koala' which is not a Serbian word, but sounds like the local word for Thank you (hvala). At least I can pronounce it. And remember it!.

It is not until I am back home that I discover Rakija Klekovaca is the Serbian equivalent of gin, and it's flavoured with, quite possibly, local juniper berries.

Our trip to Novi Pazar takes much longer than Google Maps told us it would.

The discrepancy was totally our 'fault' as, with such weather and endless panoramas like this, who wouldn't feel magnetically drawn to pull over for 'just one more shot...HERE!'.

Farms and tiny villages...

..limestone cliffs reminding us of Italy (after all it's not that far away, geologically speaking). And please note that tiny faraway village tucked into a crease in the hills below, on the edge of a river. 

Then, another village on the crest of a hill with the most stunning forever views in all directions.

Finally descending. That's our road below switchbacking us down to river plains far below.

~~~

Novi Pazar (New Bazaar)

After so much beauty, and that plethora of fascinating views...

...it's a wonder that we ever arrive in Novi Pazar, yet we do, and on time to book in to our hotel.

The hotel breakfast next morning is a good healthy boost for our day ahead.

While staying just one night might seem to be rushing things too much, on trips like this we find we can see quite a lot this way. We arrive in late afternoon and see a little of the sunset, perhaps, then have dinner where the locals eat.

Next morning we look around the town and get a feel for it, have coffee, eat lunch, then push off in mid-afternoon. This way, by splitting the 24-hour time over two days, we feel we have a fair understanding of most smaller places. 

While the name of this city sounds as if it has sprung up recently, there has actually been a market here since the 14th century.

The Ljudska River is channelled through the city.

The symmetry and clean lines of much of the architecture in Balkan countries is often very simple, but definitely outstanding - like this building, the elegant Novi Pazar Hotel Vrbak - overlooking the town. 

Bakeries are called pekara in Serbia, and they are well worth visiting! The pastries and breads may have savoury or amazingly sweet fillings, but they all need to be sampled at least once!

One fascinating feature we noticed was the visible absence of women in the streets. Cafes were filled mid-morning with men chatting and sipping thick Turkish coffee. My guess is the women are back home, busy in their kitchens - sisters, aunts, grandmothers - creating the time-consuming but immensely delicious pastries and wrapped savoury food for which this land has, for centuries, been renowned.

Several bridges cross the river, making easy access to the other parts of this busy city.

The Novi Pazar fortress is a medieval Turkish Fort, built in the 15th century on the right bank of the river, overlooking the river and city centre.

Head for the fortress ramparts for magnificent views across the city and valley.

In Bulgaria, we had seen people reading death notices in the street, and here we encounter it again in Serbia. 

Overlooking the city centre from the north.

And here's the city centre a little more to the left of the first picture (above).

...and further left again, showing the dome of the Hotel Vrbak and its magnificent bridge.

There are several mosques in Novi Pazar, and we have sighted a few, but this minaret seems to be calling us, pointing to the next part of our journey, to the south-west, the border, and more wonders on this ancient continent.

Novi Pazar is only 45 minutes by car to the border with Montenegro, our next country to visit, and we realise that it is now time for us to move on.

Sally & Gordon Hammond travelled together on this self-funded trip. All opinions are their own.

Words and pictures ©Sally Hammond

Video ©Gordon Hammond